A Question for Chippies.

[Toddy]

I look on the hardpoints as disposable saws, and leave the good quality old saws to my bother to true up and sharpen The old ones are always 'smooth', cut don't tear, but they do need set/sharpened, and I just don't use them enough.

I bought one of the Jack saws last time, and I have to agree with Biker, there are differences. This one is no where near as good as the last generic diy store hardpoint saw that I bought.
*No* idea why but it was just such hard work to use, left ragged cuts. Most likely my own fault, I just picked one off the shelf without checking teeth size, etc.,

The hardpoints are lethal though, I 'laid' one down on the top of the worktop and in doing so successfully cut a notch out of the plastic top layer Barely even touched it but the damage was done

cheers,
Toddy

 

[mrcharly]

I was bought a traditional crosscut and later on picked up a rip saw from ebay.

The trad crosscut is much slower than a modern hardpoint. However I find it easier to make precise cuts and it leaves a better finish.

The rip saw, once properly sharpened (it was sold as 'professionally sharpened'; yeah, to a crosscut pattern), was a revelation. A proper rip saw rips along the grain so fast. Nearly as quick as a circular saw.

 

[Muddypaws]

... those Jack saws are OK, but the Jetcuts are a whole different ballgame of quality and cutting action.

Just got myself a Stanley Fatmax 7tpi (it seems that this is the modern version of the Jetcut) and having given it a go through some scrap 4 x 2 I now see what you mean!

It shall be great for the framing and legs, but I shall probably use my traditional saw (10tpi) for the handrails and other bit on show as it will give a slightly better finish.

Thanks for all the great advice!

 

[Zingmo]

Remember you shouldn't use the offcuts of tanalized wood on the fire. Burning it concentrates the toxins (copper, chromium and arsenic) in the smoke and especially the ash.

Z

 

[JAG009]

Remember you shouldn't use the offcuts of tanalized wood on the fire. Burning it concentrates the toxins (copper, chromium and arsenic) in the smoke and especially the ash.

Z

So were did you get that info ? because as far i know its not got any chromium or arsenic in it and the amount of copper in it is about a tenth of what you would find in the soil anyway ,,they use the chemicals that make up the tanalize solution to spray crops


Jason

 

[awarner]

I've heard plenty of warnings similar to the above, had a quick search and there are a varied amount of different treatments for wood with some being quite nasty while others are fairly safe.

 

[Zingmo]

So were did you get that info ? because as far i know its not got any chromium or arsenic in it and the amount of copper in it is about a tenth of what you would find in the soil anyway ,,they use the chemicals that make up the tanalize solution to spray crops


Jason

It appears my info is a bit out of date. Tanalith C contains arsenic but it is no longer approved for use in Europe under the Biocidal Products Directive since September 2006. We have moved on to Tanalith E (the "E" stands for Ecological) which doesn't contain arsenic. Tanalith C and other CCA products are still used in the US and the rest of the world.
Interestingly, the advice here from the Forestry Commission still says "..old CCA treated (tanalised) wood contains arsenic and should never be used as fuel." I guess if the wood is new then you are OK.

So I will revise my advice to say that if you do burn the offcuts, then you probably would be better off if you didn't eat the ash.

Right, I'm off to burn some old fence posts...

Z