What makes the best Char Cloth?

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Today I made some char cloth from a variety of different items.
1. Denim jeans.........Works well. 2 or 3 strikes usually all that's needed.
2. Yellow dusters......Works Well. Similar to denim but burnt away quite quickly.
3. Tea Towel.............A bit slower to catch a spark, but worked in the end. Slow burning.
4. Open weave polishing cloth (from Halfords)....Caught a spark first time, but burnt away quickly.
5. Linen.....2 strikes had it lit and burnt fairly slowly.

Has anyone else tried anything different?
 
Just out of curiousity what was the linen? A shirt or similar or a tea-towel as I've both types and the linen tea towel is a lot coarser weave than the shirt.

Also I've done char cloth out of a cotton shirt and that takes one or 2 sparks and it's away, burns nicely reasonably slowly as well.
 
Today I made some char cloth from a variety of different items.
1. Denim jeans.........Works well. 2 or 3 strikes usually all that's needed.
2. Yellow dusters......Works Well. Similar to denim but burnt away quite quickly.
3. Tea Towel.............A bit slower to catch a spark, but worked in the end. Slow burning.
4. Open weave polishing cloth....Caught a spark first time, but burnt away quickly.
5. Linen.....2 strikes had it lit and burnt fairly slowly.

Has anyone else tried anything different?
I guess it depends on what you are using to generate the sparks, with a light my fire, one strike is nearly all it takes for most char-cloth. be it jeans or dishcloths or cotton waste.
With a traditional flint and steel,. I find that Char-cloth made from dishcloths from Aldi take a couple of strikes, and it is away. If you prepare your tinder bundle right, the char-cloth does not burn to fast. If you are not ready then a king Alfred cake fungus acts as an extender. giving you upwards of fifteen minutes to sort out the finer details of your fire.
 
The Linen was from a tea towel, though it was a fairly good one (Don't tell the wife, it was a wedding present years ago) The weave was fairly tight. In all cases, I used a traditional steel striker made my Mike Ameling and local flint to generate the sparks, not a Fero rod type. The char cloth, once lit, was all left out to burn up by itself. I didn't time them to the second, but just kept an eye on aprox. burn time for squares of cloth of a similar size.
 
I often use cotton stockinette, the sort that's used for wrapping a broken leg along with plaster. It's very open and catches a spark on the first strike normally. The main reason I use it is because I have lots of it :D
 
I use linen, I end up with massive amounts of scrap stuff from sewing and I hate to see it wasted., and it's really effective.
The knitted cottom from old tshirts and the like is very good too.

Cheers,
Toddy
 
Funnily enough I made some just today, for the first time.
I used dish clothes from Morrisons, it takes a spark pretty easily (a couple of strikes) but I found the ember went out quite quickly if you did not sustain it.

I think the reason is because after it had shrunk the holes in it where pretty big, I think I'll try something with a slightly tighter weave next time.
 
I did a batch the other week, I used an old cotton hand towel, in a catering coffee can with lid.
I made a small hole in the lid and set away, very much like making a small batch of artists, willow charcoal. I cooked it on the charcoal brazier for about an hour, until the smoke coming from the hole was a very pale blue/hardly there, then blocked the hole and let the can cool.
I ended up with a load of nicely charred cloth but it wont take a spark at all:confused:
Any ideas?
R.B.
 
Actually, the very best stuff I ever had for making charcloth was the leftovers from machine shop cotton rags/towels that had been used and laundered soooooo many times that they were discarded as not good enough anymore for sopping up oil/grease. There were almost nothing left but bunches of threads! Those multiple washings with harsh detergents to remove the grease/oil really broke down the cotton thread fibers - which were now over twice the size they originally were when woven up into those shop rags. It was almost like charring cotton balls, but still having something left after you "charred" it. (Cotton balls just seem to ... disappear ... when you try to make charcloth out of them.)

Right now, I mostly use something called Monk's Cloth that I bought form WallyWorld. It's a pure cotton thick thread coarse weave cloth - in a standard 5 over 5 under checkerboard type weave. It works well for me.

The best stuff I ever used came from a well washed and worn cotton grain sack. Coarse weave of thick threads, but well worn and washed. That "wear" seems to loosen up the fibers in the threads and make it easier to catch sparks when charred. But if you char it too far or too long, it gets stiff/crumbly and falls apart on me.

My latest way to make charcloth is a method my friend came up with that does not use any "tin". You wrap strips of cotton cloth around a small green stick until you have it an inch or two thick. Kind of looks like you are going to make a torch. Then I lay it on the coals of my fire. When it is all burning fairly well, I take it out, check to see how much of the cloth is "glowing", and then bury it in dirt to smother the bundle.

Once it is out, I dig it up. The outside will be well charred, possibly too charred. But it gets progressively less "charred" as you unroll it. To use, I unroll a couple inches, tear it off, and strike my sparks into it. As I use it up, the cloth starts to turn from black charred to shades of brown. At that point it will be much harder to catch a spark in it. So I just burn it some more in the fire to "char" more of it.

I cut the stick off fairly close to the cloth, and I store it all in a canvas/leather pouch. The stick helps hold and protect the charcloth. The pouch helps keep the mess somewhat contained.

So you don't even need a "tin" to make charcloth. Yes, you do burn up and lose some of your cloth, but scrap cloth is pretty easy to come up with. But I'm also shifting over to mostly using Tinder Fungus or already charred chunks of punky wood to catch my sparks. I'm doing this because most of my stuff is Historically based, and documentation for use of charcloth is almost non-existant before the mid to late 1800's. So we can't find references to people using it back in the 1700's - thus we have to find other options - like the tinder fungus or pre-charred wood/fungus.

Just my humble rambling thoughts to share. Take them as such.

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
RB, If the towel contained any lycra or elastic or even small amounts of polyester, then it won't take a spark. I have had exactly the same results before, even when the label says pure cotton. If it stretches and comes back into shape then it probably has elastic of some sort in it. Fortunately, the less expensive the product, the more likely it will be cotton only. Another thing I found out, is that cooking the char cloth for too long has also resulted in it not working. I'm not completely sure, but perhaps all the combustable material is burnt away during the cooking process?? Just a thieory. I now make my char cloth usually in small batches in smaller tins which cook off pretty fast.
 
The best I have ever made was out of a pair of M&S moleskin jeans I ripped the knee out of half an hour after buying them. It caught on the first spark and it burnt very hot and slow. Not sure if the dried blood helped ;)
 
What you are doing when making charclothe, is doing a "controlled burn". You are doing the same thing as turning wood into charcoal. The heat and lack of oxygen forces the combustible gasses out of the clothe. This is the "smoke" you see coming out of your tin. When those gasses and that smoke stop, you have just the "carbon" left in your clothe. Cooking it any longer then starts to burn and use up that carbon.

So cooking your charclothe too long burns up some of the carbon in it, and it will not work as well to catch and spread a spark. It also tends to get stiffer and crumble easier.

If you don't "cook" your charclothe long enough, you will see sections of clothe that are just "browned" instead of black. They will also be harder to tear apart.

The other big problem is trying to "cook" too large a batch at one time, or have the clothe packed into your tin too tightly. You then end up with the outside areas right next to the tin being over-charred, and the inside layers being "under-charred". And the amount of smoke coming out of the hole in the tin will just confuse you as to how it is charring inside.

So LOOSELY stack your cloth into your tin, and don't do too large of a batch at any one time. A tin the size of an Altoids tin, bandaid box, or those small round shoe-polish tins seems to work best for most people. Try to have a tin that is on the "thin" side. Those square "tea" tins can be hard to get the center parts properly charred.

Just my humble thoughts to share. Take them as such.

Mikey - yee ol' grumpy German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
The heat and lack of oxygen forces the combustible gasses out of the clothe. This is the "smoke" you see coming out of your tin. When those gasses and that smoke stop, you have just the "carbon" left in your clothe. Cooking it any longer then starts to burn and use up that carbon.

So when the gas stops burning off and the smoke stops thats when I need to plug it and take it off the heat?

Thanks for the info, its very helpfull, one of the things I did was pack it a bit too tight which explains why a few pieces had brown spots.
 
I use linen, not just because it is "authentic" for the historical periods I work in but I also find it seems to burn hotter and give a better ignition of the secondary tinder.

The method I use is here.

I've just acquired a nice Tibetan fire steel and I'm trying to find out what they used for tinder to make a set to go with it. Not much luck so far...
 

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