I have worked sodden wet, inside my outer clothing, for three solid weeks at a time; time after time in wet and in sub zero weather.
The trick is to stop the wind.
Stop it dead, live wet inside the windproof clothing and keep moving. If you stop for long you chill through, just keep moving until you can get somewhere in the sunshine out of the wind, where you can open up and air dry a bit, or somewhere you can strip off, vigorously towel yourself dry and get into dry (ish
) kit.
It's the keep moving and stop the wind taking away any heat you can make, that lets you work and get on with things.
Wool's warmer inside those conditions than cotton (jeans were utterly miserable
as were cotton bras and knickers. In the end we put wool thermals on and just forgot about the rest of the underpinnings ) polycotton trousers were fine under goretex though, and even the girls wearing the cheap peter storm unbreathable waterproofs found that.
We found that we could wear dry the wool and polycotton just by taking the waterproofs off and moving around in the bothy in the evening. They never got bone dry, but dry enough not to chill us. Socks too, though there was nothing we could do about saturated boots
Just put them back on and wear them. Double wool socks though, and we weren't cold, so long as we kept moving. Tea breaks and lunch no longer than ten minutes kind of thing. Jeans we could never get dry enough not to be cold, clammy and 'hard'.
Our sleeping bags were kept in the bothy, and they were dry there, but cold, icily cold. We had a selection of everything from down to North Face -20, Ajungilak, etc., and the down won. It fluffed up and it stayed warm and it was warm quickly, unlike the others. A Mammot bag worked well too, but it was a mix, it was still better than the synthetics. With the sleeping bags though, a silk liner was brilliant, but the ones that were prelined with cotton were easier and more comfortable than the artificial fibre ones.....I got fed up tangling with it all when I was cold and tired and in the end sewed my silk liner into my bag.
I don't like wool and nylon type mixes for socks; the nylon degrades the wool too quickly I find, while pure wool thickens and felts as it shapes to your foot and boot.
I have since bought knitted silk thermals and they are brilliant
they don't wear as well as the wool though, but as a fine underlayer they are ultimate.
There is no reason for merino thermals to be scratchy if they are genuinely made from merino. Adding nylon to the mix can make it coarse though, so check the quality/feel of them before you buy. Good thermals should be fine enough that if you de-layer then body heat dries them off.
Most of us don't need to work damp and wet. It's a choice for us, and an awful lot of the clothing sold for the purpose is fine for cold and dry; it's not so good in the persistant damp of an Atlantic climate.
Some of the stuff the sea fishermen wear is very good though, but they usually have a good heat somewhere to dry off if necessary. The old boats didn't, and they wore wool and oilskins.....so wool and total water and wind stop layers, and before they had oilskins they used oiled skins. MacAlpine came to the council dressed in fishskin cagoule made from tanned salmon skins....the others came in their finery hoping to be chosen.....guess who ended up king ?
The Inuit made their waterproofs out of seamammal intestines; fine, beautiful and lightweight, and wind and waterproof.
They carefully build in venting....open up the waist and neck and body heat alone dries off underneath clothing. We just do the same.
Goretex, TPC, evenk and so on are very, very good, and a world of difference compared to the solid waterproofs though, and they manage fine over almost anything.
In the persistant
dry cold, then I think cotton would be fine, the Scandinavians, the Himalayans and the Mongols wear it, so it must work for them.
Thing is that cotton is cheap; cheap to produce and to spin and weave and knit by machine. It's even used inside quilts for warmth, but in a damp climate, find anything else but cotton for underneath if you're going to be either working hard and getting sweaty, or going to get soaked.
Merino doesn't need to be expensive either; both Aldi's and Lidl's have good merino rich thermals for sale through the year, and they have proved to be both comfortable and warm as well as relatively hard wearing.
At the end of the day, we're all different, our requirements are different, our activity levels are different.
Unless dry then cotton is cold and it's really hard to dry. Wool soaks up a lot of moisture and stays relatively warm, but unless heated from inside, it takes a long while to dry off.
Modern wick away fibres are very, very good, but they don't sell specialised fabric conditioners to get rid of the smell for no good reason. They are also not safe near fires and open flames....neither is cotton though. Wool is, so is linen.
Not a concern for most outdoors folks, but it is for those of us who do play with fire
Each to their own.
cheers,
Toddy