What to get to flatten waterstones with?

[lub0]

Does anyone know what I should get to properly flatten my waterstones with because they have developed an irregular surface from all the use they've had.

 

[scoops_uk]

I flatten my oil stones with a granite surface plate and wet and dry paper. If you don't have access to a surface plate, you could use a thick sheet of glass.

Scoops

 

[Mesquite]

You can use wet and dry on a glass plate

 

[Wook]

I believe they make a tool specifically for this:

http://www.yandles.co.uk/product.php/site/froogle/sn/ICEWSCFS

 

[robin wood]

you need to get something that is easy to use because they should be cut back/flattened almost as often as you run your knife over them. I use diamond plates, some folk who have 2 grits rub one stone against the other in a circular motion. I suspect those cheap diamond plates you get from aldi and the likes would work OK.

 

[Paulm]

The abrasive mesh used for sanding plasterboard is good, doesn't clog like wet and dry and lasts a decent time, use it every time you use the stones, little and often, as Robin says.

Cheers, Paul

 

[Dave Budd]

I have a paving slab and a small pot of sand blasting grit. After 5 years and many many truings it is no longer producing a flat stone, more slightly cambered, so I will be getting a new slab soon. A sheet of glass would do better I suspect

Wet and dry paper is way too expensive for truing stones with! I don't use the diamonds as I find my stones get quite off true when teaching/deomsntrating (Robin is able to get away with it because he trues little and very often, also he is mostly sharpening carving knives where a little uneveness is very noticeable).

 

[Perrari]

I use a piece of 60 grit sanding belt until almost flat, then finish with 1 sheet of 180 grit wet or dry. Use both on a flat surface.

 

[nic.]

Another vote for Diamonds, Little and often is better from a sharpening point of view but if you do need to remove a lot of material diamond cuts very quickly, also you can leave the slurry on without worrying about it being contaminated with odd bits of abrasive grit. Don't expect Trend to honour their 5 year warranty if you use them for this though!

 

[Harry The Camper]

side of road/pavement.

Free and it works.

 

[Woodcutter2]

you need to get something that is easy to use because they should be cut back/flattened almost as often as you run your knife over them. I use diamond plates, some folk who have 2 grits rub one stone against the other in a circular motion. I suspect those cheap diamond plates you get from aldi and the likes would work OK.

Robins right the cheap Aldi/Lidl plates work a treat, even better to epoxy them to a sheet glass if like mine they are the 5mm thick variety and therefore a tad flexy, work the stone in question over the top. It should then be flat enough for knives.

In heavily worn cases I run them under the surface grinder with an old wheel on! it hurts to see all that waterstone evaporate in a cloud of dust but they are perfect afterwards

 

[dixienormns]

my japanese watestones says to use a brick or concrete block i dont worry about slopes they help with diff blade shapes

 

[Firefly1]

Hi Guy's,
This is what I used :-http://www.sharkdesigns.co.uk/bushcraft/Products%20Folder/sharpening/water_stones/ceramic_flattening_stone.html

After setting a permanent sharpening bench in the garage I now use a concrete slab with my water stones mounted in a purpose made holder, all i have to do is remove the stone and a quick rub on the slab and off you go.

Firefly1

 

[v8mule]

i use wet and dry on a old marble chopping board

 

[Jomo]

i have a 1200 grit and an 800 grit waterstone and both are far from flat but i have no problem using them effectively, is a flat stone really necessary!!

 

[robin wood]

i have a 1200 grit and an 800 grit waterstone and both are far from flat but i have no problem using them effectively, is a flat stone really necessary!!

it depends entirely what you are sharpening, if you want a flat bevel for controlled woodcarving then yes flat is important if you want a convex bevel for general purpose use then a hollow stone is actually better. What matters as well as flat though is cutting the stone down to expose new material, if you don't do this your stone is probably cutting at half the speed it could be again that might not be a problem for you but I like my stones to cut fast and sharpen quickly.

 

[_mark_]

i have a 1200 grit and an 800 grit waterstone and both are far from flat but i have no problem using them effectively, is a flat stone really necessary!!

For paring chisels and plane blades it's essential. Float glass and self adhesive sandpaper.

 

[dwardo]

My family business is glass so i have easy access. 6.4mm Laminated is nice flat and safe. Added bonus is used glass sanding belts, added together they are perfect.
If anyone is in need of cut sizes of glass give me a shout.