I'm late in doing some comparisons of the Laplander that JM sent me with the Sawvivor - or Ultralight as it's called in Europe. I'll have to haul them out today and report some times for cutting.
The thing to remember, though is that size and weight matter, too. So it'll just to be giving an idea of the capabilities. It'd be helpful if everyone would give some types/sizes and times for wood cut - for various saws. It'll be important to stay with easy cutting to get realistic and comparable values. Competition is for logging shows...
I've been exploring the robustness of the Ultralight/Sawvivor and so it gets a lot of use by a lot of people. And of course the other day I noticed that sand on driftwood had finally taken it's toll. I spent about half an hour sharpening the teeth with some emery paper and went down to under 30 secs for hard 6" logs. I don't have any jigs, and so just have to try to keep to the angles. It seems to work well enough. One modification that I've been wanting to get around to is modifying the shape of the teeth. A more rounded or chisel shape (but still sharp) to the tops is supposed to be more efficent for the hard wood. Maybe then I have to reduce the height of the rakers - we'll see. I guess most people now wonder about the wicked reputation of saws, but when sharp they deserve to be treated with a lot of respect..
The thing to remember, though is that size and weight matter, too. So it'll just to be giving an idea of the capabilities. It'd be helpful if everyone would give some types/sizes and times for wood cut - for various saws. It'll be important to stay with easy cutting to get realistic and comparable values. Competition is for logging shows...
I've been exploring the robustness of the Ultralight/Sawvivor and so it gets a lot of use by a lot of people. And of course the other day I noticed that sand on driftwood had finally taken it's toll. I spent about half an hour sharpening the teeth with some emery paper and went down to under 30 secs for hard 6" logs. I don't have any jigs, and so just have to try to keep to the angles. It seems to work well enough. One modification that I've been wanting to get around to is modifying the shape of the teeth. A more rounded or chisel shape (but still sharp) to the tops is supposed to be more efficent for the hard wood. Maybe then I have to reduce the height of the rakers - we'll see. I guess most people now wonder about the wicked reputation of saws, but when sharp they deserve to be treated with a lot of respect..