What oil ?
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I personally don't oil unless tools are going into storage. Or I'm expecting that they may get damp.
I think as long as they are getting used, cleaned and dried properly they don't need it.
Previously I've mainly used mineral oil but I've also used a light coat of Vaseline, olive oil, bicycle oil and some very old honing oil.
It's just to provide a barrier to water and oxygen (to prevent oxidation) so any oil will work in a pinch, though some may eventually go off.
If you are going to use the tools for food prep stick to food grade mineral oil or similar.
I think as long as they are getting used, cleaned and dried properly they don't need it.
Previously I've mainly used mineral oil but I've also used a light coat of Vaseline, olive oil, bicycle oil and some very old honing oil.
It's just to provide a barrier to water and oxygen (to prevent oxidation) so any oil will work in a pinch, though some may eventually go off.
If you are going to use the tools for food prep stick to food grade mineral oil or similar.
I give things a squirt of Camellia oil from time to time. It is quite a thin oil so doesn't go gloopy/sticky like other more sturdy oils.
Stuff kept in a damp shed and used infrequently really does need a bit of TLC sometimes, whether they got wet on an outing or not.
Also important to dry out sheaths & cases properly.
Stuff kept in a damp shed and used infrequently really does need a bit of TLC sometimes, whether they got wet on an outing or not.
Also important to dry out sheaths & cases properly.
Almost any oil will do. Light mineral is ideal.
If knife 'for food prep, then something food safe.
The Camellia mentioned above (Japanese Tsubaki) is top of the pile.
If knife 'for food prep, then something food safe.
The Camellia mentioned above (Japanese Tsubaki) is top of the pile.
I generally just dry them off and smear with Vaseline on a cotton ball, the ball then goes into the tinder bag. I am also careful not to 'store' them in wet/damp sheaths or protectors.
D.B.
D.B.
Camilia oil every time - yes it is more expensive but as a light oil, a little goes a long long way and it is food safe and since it is light it doesn't result in a gunky tool.
If I was storing things for some time, I'd use a heavier oil or vasaline or a rub down with paraffin wax (candle stub) works well and washes off fairly easily with hot water the next time you come to take it out of storage.
If I was storing things for some time, I'd use a heavier oil or vasaline or a rub down with paraffin wax (candle stub) works well and washes off fairly easily with hot water the next time you come to take it out of storage.
My preference is camelia, as its food safe, acid free and good for protecting wood, leather and steel. A very light sheen goes a long way and doesn't tend to go sticky with age. Other than that a bit of beeswax on the wood and leather has always worked too.
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Guns: Ballistol or Remington oil. Molybdenium grease on some insude parts
Fishing reels: Rocket Oil and Molybdenium grease
Knives: food oil or mineral oil. Does not matter what oil to be frank.
Fishing reels: Rocket Oil and Molybdenium grease
Knives: food oil or mineral oil. Does not matter what oil to be frank.
Answer: clean all blades. Thoroughly wash and dry all blades. Keep warm to make certain that the last of the water film
has a chance to dry off. Various oil rag wipes on the warm metals, store in a warm dry place.
All metals get the same treatments.
+1 Janne
I have peices of flannel cloth, old clothing, that have drips of light machine oil added. Just your average oily rag.
All guns get stripped, dried, inspected and wiped down with the rag. Moly grease inside on springs and hinges.
Wood carving tools get a rag wipe as well.
The deal is, I want to use a mineral oil, an oil which won't oxidize and go gummy over months in the gun cabinet.
All carbon steel kitchen edges get a wipe with canola oil on a paper towel.
S/S edges get wiped dry, never bother with the oil.
has a chance to dry off. Various oil rag wipes on the warm metals, store in a warm dry place.
All metals get the same treatments.
+1 Janne
I have peices of flannel cloth, old clothing, that have drips of light machine oil added. Just your average oily rag.
All guns get stripped, dried, inspected and wiped down with the rag. Moly grease inside on springs and hinges.
Wood carving tools get a rag wipe as well.
The deal is, I want to use a mineral oil, an oil which won't oxidize and go gummy over months in the gun cabinet.
All carbon steel kitchen edges get a wipe with canola oil on a paper towel.
S/S edges get wiped dry, never bother with the oil.
I've used various oils over the years and the only one that I had a problem with was olive oil which allowed a bit of rust. Now I use silicone oil because apparently it doesn't degrade the o-rings in air rifles but I use it on everything. It's especially fun on laminate flooring!
I've been meaning to "make" one of these:
https://paulsellers.com/2011/10/recycling-4oz-bean-or-tomato-tins/
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https://paulsellers.com/2011/10/recycling-4oz-bean-or-tomato-tins/
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