what is the best technique for using a fero rod

[knowledge=gain]

i have seen and read differences on this topic and done some testing

in my tests with my only fero-rod from what-stores in the yellowstone name,

i have discovered that holding the striker or back-of-knife still and pulling the fero-rod works best for me as

1. gives better spark
2. less risk of knocking the tinder [done many times] oops
3. direct the spark for better accuracy

is this the same or different for you with your chosen fero-rod

does this differ between different fero-rods and or quality thereof

 

[Wander]

Yes, I do the same as you - hold the striker steady and pull the rod back against it.
Mainly for reasons 2 and 3.
I've not noticed any difference in spark.

I guess it's horses for courses. Whatever works for each individual is what matters.

 

[Hammock_man]

I have tried so many times to get the "hold the rod still" to work but with very little success. I now tend to make the flame separate to the main fire and carry the lit birch bark (normally) to the fire pit.

 

[Mesquite]

This is probably the best technique I've seen for using a firesteel.

 

[C_Claycomb]

this works well for holding the scraper still and moving the rod. I use this method and the one Paul shows. Cannot say I have a preference, I use whichever seems appropriate for the type and quantity of tinder.

I definitely do not use or advocate moving the scraper to scrape the whole length of the rod. My experience is that this has high odds of knocking the tinder, and sparks are not produced or directed in a single small area.

 

[Broch]

Again, just have a go

Whereas I agree with what has been said and the videos, it does depend on your application and the quality of the rod.

If you have laid a good fire base with tinder well tucked under and plenty of kindling, you can light it easily with a good rod from a distance with the best probability of your fire lighting - mine throws hot sparks several feet but, more realistically, I can light good tinders from six inches away - no danger of knocking the tinder. If you're lighting a small stack of powdered tinder (such as scraped birch bark) on a platform, or your ferro rod produces fewer, cooler, sparks, use the scraper static/rod pulled method.

TBH, this is one of the reasons I prefer a ferro rod to a match or a lighter - you can project the sparks well into the base of your laid fire without a) the problem of the match being blown out or b) you burning your fingers on the lighter.

 

[knowledge=gain]

This is probably the best technique I've seen for using a firesteel.

you can tell he has had his rod a very long time with tons of usage

this works well for holding the scraper still and moving the rod. I use this method and the one Paul shows. Cannot say I have a preference, I use whichever seems appropriate for the type and quantity of tinder.

I definitely do not use or advocate moving the scraper to scrape the whole length of the rod. My experience is that this has high odds of knocking the tinder, and sparks are not produced or directed in a single small area.

it is another way of using a fero-rod with what one has got

Again, just have a go

Whereas I agree with what has been said and the videos, it does depend on your application and the quality of the rod.

If you have laid a good fire base with tinder well tucked under and plenty of kindling, you can light it easily with a good rod from a distance with the best probability of your fire lighting - mine throws hot sparks several feet but, more realistically, I can light good tinders from six inches away - no danger of knocking the tinder. If you're lighting a small stack of powdered tinder (such as scraped birch bark) on a platform, or your ferro rod produces fewer, cooler, sparks, use the scraper static/rod pulled method.

TBH, this is one of the reasons I prefer a ferro rod to a match or a lighter - you can project the sparks well into the base of your laid fire without a) the problem of the match being blown out or b) you burning your fingers on the lighter.

fero-rods are superior as they

1. do not run out of gas or other fuel
2. do not run out of flints
3. are far cheaper than single use matches
4. work when damp and
5. work in wet conditions
6. work in windy conditions

have i missed any-thing out...??

 

[Broch]

fero-rods are superior as they

1. do not run out of gas or other fuel
2. do not run out of flints
3. are far cheaper than single use matches
4. work when damp and
5. work in wet conditions
6. work in windy conditions

have i missed any-thing out...??

Yep, the prevention of the inevitable burnt thumb trying to use a Bic lighter to light the tinder at the base of a fire

However, practice as many techniques as you can, including matches in the wind, so you've got a tool-chest of fire lighting methods at your disposal.

 

[knowledge=gain]

Yep, the prevention of the inevitable burnt thumb trying to use a Bic lighter to light the tinder at the base of a fire

However, practice as many techniques as you can, including matches in the wind, so you've got a tool-chest of fire lighting methods at your disposal.

it is funny how one brand of very cheap throw-away lighter is always referred to when we are about recycling and saving-environment

yes the flint still has a use when gas runs out yet flints run out and are not designed to be changeable nor gas refill be option for throw-away lighters

whereas why not have a cheap £0.99p clipper or other [refillable] or a cheap petrol lighter or a cheap £1.00p extended-lighter or a wind-proof lighter and-such

many shapes of lighter can have para-cord or tape or a combination wound round them if required

omw

the are now making wind-proof lighters with rechargeable batteries, what happened to piezo or however it is spelt

many examples of [USB] lighters https://heavy.com/outdoors/2019/03/windproof-lighter/

 

[Mesquite]

you can tell he has had his rod a very long time with tons of usage

Long time is doubtful, Paul probably gets through a ferro rod a year with all the teaching and actual bushcraft he does

 

[knowledge=gain]

Long time is doubtful, Paul probably gets through a ferro rod a year with all the teaching and actual bushcraft he does

that is a long time for Paul

 

[C_Claycomb]

it is funny how one brand of very cheap throw-away lighter is always referred to when we are about recycling and saving-environment

Bic is to lighters what Hoover is to vacuums, but the only reliable way to find one in the UK is online. The environmental sentiment of this subset of society has little to do with the use of generic terminology
Walk into a super market, petrol station or pound shop and you are much more like to find Poppell lighters, but let’s face it, who would know what you were talking about if you used that band name instead of Bic?

 

[C_Claycomb]

you can tell he has had his rod a very long time with tons of usage

it is another way of using a fero-rod with what one has got

fero-rods are superior as they

1. do not run out of gas or other fuel
2. do not run out of flints
3. are far cheaper than single use matches
4. work when damp and
5. work in wet conditions
6. work in windy conditions

have i missed any-thing out...??

Now list why ferro rods are inferior. Don‘t forget to state what the are superior or inferior in comparison to; matches…lighters…flint and steel…road flares…

Trying to light a candle….or an oil lamp, with a ferro rod is going to make a person question their “superiority”. Lighting a pressure petrol lantern could be down right exciting.

I like my ferro rod, but I am not blind to its limitations and constraints.

Chris

 

[Kav]

I wish there was a more complete history of ferro rods. I know the amalgam is a early, 20 century creation by an Austrian chemist and named Auermetall in his honor.
You can get those rods still ( very hard)
It is used in welding torch lighters, tobacco lighters and munition detonators and some match cases.
I became aware of ‘ferrorods’ 1975
Serving on Kodiak Island, Alaska.
Survival kits came with NATO Lifeboat Matches still made br BCB. Learning how to strike these was a right of passage. I still use them exclusive to all others, though hard and dear to get in the USA.
Then we were issued a new method to field test. DOANS the small magnesium bar and even smaller ferro rod. People forget aviation survival items are often tailored for space and weight. We were told BE GENEROUS with the shavings and to create a pile the size of a old shilling and MIX with
Moss etc. shaving was/ is a pita. I
Discovered the saw back of our Ontario/Camillus 499 survival knives did a good job. They were never popular. Everyone put faith in leaky Zippos or the Lifeboats. I carried all three ( pre reading bushcraft times to do so.)
DOANS recently went out of business. Military went with SPARKLIGHTS, an even lighter lighter ( and miserable with cold hands)
We heard the Canadians had a version called ZERKS.
And THAT, until they popped up like mushrooms one year is my known history.
As for use? Look up the ignition temperature and then the melting point of steels. It may take more of the ‘ thousands of lights’ boasted for a rod ( NOT) but I’ve seen a few old Moras with definite heat pitting on the squared spine from metal match strikes. It looks all manly man against Nature ( I’ve a rod on my sheath. Hey it’s the fashion thing to do with a paracord bracelet) but prefer a dedicated striker of Machine steel blanks.

 

[R_Fonseca]

This is probably the best technique I've seen for using a firesteel.

Caught this a bit late, but I can't get this to work without it feeling dangerous (need more speed and pressure than is controllable from that position). I've never had a proper LMF rod though - I imagine the rod makes a big difference to this working or not.