What is the best size for firesteels?

[edispilff]

Starting to add firesteels to my knives, and was wondering if i could get some user opinions as to what the best size (length) for them.

Just ordered 3 X 6.5mm X 80mm, 3 X 9mm X 80mm, 1 X 12.5mm X 127mm
and understand that the 6 and 9mm are pretty much standard diameters... and the big guy, just got that for kicks (probably won't put a handle on that though).

So, in your outdoor experiences, what are your favorite/best lengths?

 

[Daegurth]

i used to have a 6mm LMF scout, just got a 9mm BCB fireball. so far i prefer the old one with it's lower friction, but i think the slight teething difficulties with the new one will disappear as soon as i put a handle on it. i've got some beech seasoning downstairs, i'll just use that.

never seen a 12.7mm one, can you post a comparison photo with a ruler when you get them?

 

[edispilff]

Sorry, everything is converted from standard to metric (the US is so behind the times!):
1/4 inch = 6.5mm dia.
3/8 inch = 9mm dia.
1/2 inch = 12.5mm dia.

...will definately post some pictures of before and after...

As for length, what are the sizes (strikable area) that correspond to the 6,9,12.5mm blanks that you re using?

cheers

 

[Daegurth]

both the blanks are/were the usual 80mm long, but i tended not to use the full length while firelighting- probably about 4cm.

the handle on the scout (6mm &#8960 covered about 1.5cm or so of the blank, but since that left 6.5cm, which is plenty, it wasn't a problem. when i handle the fireball (9mm &#8960, i'll probably cover the hole then go another centimetre, which is also about 1.5cm, again leaving 6.5cm.

since it's much easier to grip a big warm wooden handle then a small section of metal when it's cold and wet, i'd concentrate more on securely fitting the handle than on maximising the length of blank you can use.

i hope that's what you were after.

 

[edispilff]

Perfect!, those numbers are pretty much right in the stadium.
The package should arrive today, and i'll post some pictures of the blanks and then the final firesteels... The handles are waiting patiently!

Thanks again!

 

[Daegurth]

no problem. looking forward to the pics!

 

[saddle_tramp]

where did you get the big one? wouldnt mind one of them

 

[edispilff]

Ok, here are a couple of pix. I searched high and low to try to find my standard & metric measuring ruler.. but to no avail! so here is a link to the firesteel section at usaknifemaker.com they have rulers out on several of the blanks that should give you a good idea of the sizes available (this is the cheapest place in North America after all of the searching). Oh, i believe they do ship Intl... so it may actually be cheaper with shipping rather than UK local! Tracy is a great guy and has a solid reputation!

...and a few photos for comparison:

The sizes on the ends are 1/4" dia. which comes out to 6.35mm. The one in the middle is 1/2" dia. and measures at 12.7mm (these are exact conversions as taken from onlineconversion.com). The lengths of the small guys are 3" (76.2mm) and the big critter is 5" (127mm).

This is the first one finished out of polished deer antler and leather. the lanyard tube is beveled brass. The ferro rod has been scored at the inserted end to aid the epoxy's grip. JB Weld was used as the epoxy set (this stuff is really good when working with metals; sets fast, can be ground/filed just like metal, excess removes easily, and has a dark metallic/grey color when set).

a small brass tube outlines turquoise glow in the dark "sand" from Glow Inc.. Because firesteels are pretty small, and most of them will get used at night, it only seemed logical to add a little loss prevention!

This is basically the same as the one above, except the antler was kept natural. Needs to have the lanyard longer so that it can slip underneath the ferro rod to lock the whole thing into place.

Do a search for the "fancy" materials (glow powders, JB weld), and you'll get someone local.

Thanks again for checking these out and the next few in the making (whenever time permits) will be combinations of real turquoise, micarta, and maybe some burl .

 

[Daegurth]

that's a sweet handle.

how do you stop the glow powder falling out? is it behind a window of some kind?

 

[edispilff]

Thanks Dae'... compund: Usually epoxy mixed with the sand. dab it in there and sand it later. but in this case, i 'poured' the sandin there first, and then added a couple of drops of good 'ole super glue. seems to work just as good, and is much easier to deal with. Definately do a small, thin walled brass tube liner. no matter how straight you drill the hole, it won't be perfectly round... and the tube helps this. you really only have to drill down about 4-5mm and then pound the tube in and file it off.

For glow-in-the-dark first timers, i would recommend the powders first. they are easier to work with. The sand is almost like playing with small bits of statically charges styrofoam. they want to 'hop' around everywhere. The nice side is, that the sand looks a little more like turquoise during the day (bigger chunks)... and it mixes really well and looks cool with natural / reconstituted stone.

The green is the brightest, and lasts the longest - up to 20 hours
The lt. blue/ teal/ turquoise is the next brightest - 12+ hrs.
and then the dark blue comes in at about 9 hr. and half the intesity of the turquoise.

On another front, there's a product in the UK called "chromazone".. it's a temperature changing pigment that can be mixed with just about everything except water. Just got a few large samples in different temperature ranges. will see how this can be used to act as a color-based thermometer built into knife handles!

Just finished another steel.. will have some pix in a few