Wax proofing help required

[spamel]

I've just taken ownership of an old wax drovers coat. Typical really, as the sun has come out for the first time in weeks!! Anyway, I digress.

The coat is lovely, old and worn in, with that lovely smell of wax that so many of you probably know. After getting it unwrapped, I noticed that it looked to be a bit lean on the waxproofing, and upon applying a little water I watched as it soaked right in to the cloth! It is fair to say that it has the waterproof qualities of a new tea bag!

It looks to me like the prvious owner has put it through the washing machine! Either that or it was never reproofed. So what I need to do now is look at my options. Do I take the opportunity to wash the jacket completely as it is a bit grimy, and then reproof it with wax proofing? Should I do that in the machine on a low temperature without any detergents? Or just bung a load of wax on top of the grime? Also, which is the best product to use? I know there is a Nikwax product for waxed clothing, but I am assuming that there needs to be some shred of wax somewhere on the garment!

So, I'm thinking Barbour wax, stick with what I know. So, it comes with instructions, but what is the best way of applying it? I've heard about bunging the coat in an airing cupboard to get it warm and therefore getting a good application, but I don't have one - Combi boiler instead! Would using a hair dryer and doing the coat in sections be a better option? How much wax am I gonna need for a full length Drovers coat?

Any other tips are welcomed! Cheers:You_Rock_

 

[Buckshot]

I don't use wax proofs anymore but when I did I used Barbour wax, put the tin in a hot water bath to melt the wax. Take the lid off first !
Use a clean lint free cloth to apply the wax, it will dry all streeky so after all the coat is done get the hair dryer out and you'll find the wax goes in nicely.
Mine looked like new afterwards

Mark

 

[spamel]

Seeing how there is not a shred of wax on it at the moment, should I wash it in the machine to get rid of some of the grub and grime? Don't get me wrong, I don't mind the worn in look, but it could abrade the fibres if I leave it on, and it is really grubby. The liner, which cannot be removed, would probably benefit from a wash aswell!

 

[Dave Budd]

I would clean it before reproofing. I use nikwax techwash on my waterproofs, though the last time I proofed my oilskin (many years ago now), I used dove soap fllakes from the supermarket (it's pure soap and rinses out easily, like the techwash).

As for reproofing I have two suggestions, one modern and one old.

Modern: Barbour wax. I've never used the spray on version, but the tin goes quite a long way. I rubbed it in well with a cloth and then blowed it witha hair dryer to soak in. Left to dry for a couple of days and did it again. May have done it three times, but I can't remember as the jacket got lost years ago now. I know the proofing worked though

Old: I recently reproofed my canvas canopy for my Iron Age Forge display set up using a mixture of boiled linseeed oil and tallow. I got the recipe from a very very old book of useful recipes, this one was to proof a lorry cover/tarp. but they also had a suggestion for making and proofing a cyclists cloak. It was made form veavy cotton or calico and says to apply warm boiled linseed oil to the oilside and hang in the sun to dry for a few days. The repeat two more times, allowing to dry properly in between. Apparently you can use raw linseed oil for an even more flexible finish but it takes forever to dry. Linseed oil does smell nice though

just a couple of ideas for you

 

[spamel]

Did you wash it by hand, or in the machine?

 

[EdS]

rub in with your hands then go over with an iron

 

[BorderReiver]

Did you wash it by hand, or in the machine?

By hand if SWMBO is at home,in the machine if she is out.

 

[KAE1]

Buckshots method works really well. The use of hairdryer brings the fibres back out. I have found too many layers and using an iron gives the coat a PVC look.

Incidentally I recently re proofed my Fjalraven trousers around the knee panel with 'greenland wax' and it only lasted a few days - I am thinking of using barbour wax on the knees next time. Anyone else diappointed with greenland wax?

 

[addyb]

Is wax proofing a Barbour at all similar to doing a Fjallraven G-1000 jacket?

And KAE1, I've not at all been disappointed with Greenland wax. I think that the key to getting it to work effectively is to do multiple thin coats of the wax as opposed to one big thick application. The iron only needs to be on medium heat as the wax melts rather easily.

Hope this helps.

Adam

 

[Dougster]

I've got a Barbour 'manual' from when I sent mine to have the sleeves lengthened. It categorically states no washing, but not why, I presume because the fibres will break.

Give it a wipe with a damp cloth and proof, to be safe, and put up with any smells.

 

[spamel]

I'm never doing this again if i can avoid it!

OK, so the tin of barbour wax has turned up. It's never gonna be enough! The learning curve on this one is going vertical! I've picked a warm sunny day, the first in I don't know how long, to get the coat sorted. I have it laid out and the tin warmed up, sponging the wax onto a pre warmed coat with a hair dryer in sections. Got the cape done in no time, started doing the flap closure, not a problem. Decided to then start on the front of the coat, so started at the bottom and worked back up to the collar. Got to the waist so far so I reckon I've got about 1/8th of the coat done!

First impressions are that it looks a bit streaky, but I'll wait till the whole coat is done and a final going over with the hairdryer until I pass judgement on that! A lesson learnt, never ever ever use a sponge! It will disintegrate and bits of sponge stick to the wax and it is a nightmare! Also, if you are using a hairdryer to heat the coat and do it in sections, there are two options:

1. Get a friendly family member to do the hairdryer leaving you both hands to manipulate the coat and apply the wax. It also saves the hairdryer getting covered in wax!

2. Grow a third arm!

So, not even halfway through and I have about a third of the tin left! Don't forget though, I am reproofing this coat from scratch, there wasn't a shed of wax on it at the start. Still, I sometimes wonder if I am layering it too thick, but I am trying to get it to absorb into the cloth and then move on to a new patch. I'll see at the end, but it is gonna need another tin.

Also, before somebody mentions it, Nikwax do a spray on soluble wax for waxed garments, but I didn't know if there needed to be a base of wax to start with so I didn't use it this time. I will be in future though!

More to follow once i get finished and another tin aswell!

 

[spamel]

Half done, minus one arm. About a third of a tin of wax left, but it wasn't full to the brim so I might just have enough. Maybe!

It's hot and boring work, but so far has been an experience! I'm looking forward to getting it done but I think I'll leave it for now and do a bit more another day, then pop it around to my parents for a couple of days in their hot airing cupboard!

 

[Dave Budd]

fun ain't it?

From my canvas treating episode using the tallow and linseed oil I learnt that if you wait until teh waterproof is creamy rather than ligquid and then use a cotton rag to apply to the warmed section, it soaks in les and so will cover more evenly and quickly. Trouble is you then have to repeat it a coupleof times to get teh full penetration I started off by using a paint brush to apply the warm and liquid solution, so I now have very heavy greasy patches where I did that