waterproofing clothing what products or homemade works best

[knowledge=gain]

as per title

what waterproofing product store bought or home made works best as an all rounder for clothes, bags, tents, tarps etc can you safely recommend with tips for first time use

 

[C_Claycomb]

Fabsil. Use as per instructions on the can.

If you were only looking for clothing treatment, Nikwax. Use as per instructions on the bottle.

Nikwax is water based, so things that already have a DWR coating, or are thin with silicone treatment, don't hold it as well as the silicone/solvent mix in Fabsil.

 

[knowledge=gain]

Fabsil. Use as per instructions on the can.

If you were only looking for clothing treatment, Nikwax. Use as per instructions on the bottle.

Nikwax is water based, so things that already have a DWR coating, or are thin with silicone treatment, don't hold it as well as the silicone/solvent mix in Fabsil.

thank you

 

[Toddy]

+1 for both Fabsil and Nikwax products.

If you need something like waxed cotton though, then search for Greenland wax which is a mix of beeswax and paraffin wax, and can be made at home.

 

[knowledge=gain]

+1 for both Fabsil and Nikwax products.

If you need something like waxed cotton though, then search for Greenland wax which is a mix of beeswax and paraffin wax, and can be made at home.

thank you

would fabsil or nikwak be ok or something different for cotton polyester mix

and

nylon french f2 tent

 

[Toddy]

For a tent I'd use the Fabsil. It sprays on and in this weather it dries quickly. Try to do it on a calm day though; you really don't want to be breathing it in. There is a 'paint on' version too, but it's more labour intensive, more expensive and the spray can makes it easy.
Each to their own on that though.

Nikwax is more for clothing. Well, I use it for clothing, not my tents, if I make myself clear ?

Fabsil's great on stuff like the hems of trousers too if you're ploutering through long wet stuff, and rucksacks and the like. That wee spray is awfully handy

If the tent is an old heavy duty cotton type one, I'd use the paint on Fabsil though. We have an old Black's Niger up the loft. It's bombproof but it has the same issue that all of that type have, and if you touch the inside of the tent when it's sodden and pouring outside, then it'll leak. You have to run a finger down to the drip edge from where you touched the canvas to stop it dripping through on you. That's the kind of tent that I'd use the paint on fabsil (or I'm pretty sure Screwfix make something similar ) to waterproof.

Cotton swells in the wet and it stops most water getting through, but that's dependent on the weave, (Ventile is brilliant, but way too expensive to make a tent from) the construction and the use of the item. Polycotton is generally not so waterproof.

M

 

[knowledge=gain]

For a tent I'd use the Fabsil. It sprays on and in this weather it dries quickly. Try to do it on a calm day though; you really don't want to be breathing it in. There is a 'paint on' version too, but it's more labour intensive, more expensive and the spray can makes it easy.
Each to their own on that though.

Nikwax is more for clothing. Well, I use it for clothing, not my tents, if I make myself clear ?

Fabsil's great on stuff like the hems of trousers too if you're ploutering through long wet stuff, and rucksacks and the like. That wee spray is awfully handy

If the tent is an old heavy duty cotton type one, I'd use the paint on Fabsil though. We have an old Black's Niger up the loft. It's bombproof but it has the same issue that all of that type have, and if you touch the inside of the tent when it's sodden and pouring outside, then it'll leak. You have to run a finger down to the drip edge from where you touched the canvas to stop it dripping through on you. That's the kind of tent that I'd use the paint on fabsil (or I'm pretty sure Screwfix make something similar ) to waterproof.

Cotton swells in the wet and it stops most water getting through, but that's dependent on the weave, (Ventile is brilliant, but way too expensive to make a tent from) the construction and the use of the item. Polycotton is generally not so waterproof.

M

thank you that has given me a much better comprehension

 

[Lean'n'mean]

I've used Nikwax tent & gear solarproof on both a nylon tent & rucksack. Being water based I thought it would wash off after the first rain but it has held up OK. Although Nikwax products are better for the enviroment & your lungs etc ........if I was going out to camp in some serious rain on a regular basis I would probably chose something like Fabsil as it would likely be more resistant & permanant.

The only clothing I rainproof is a waxed cotton coat & I use Barbour's wax thornproof dressing......I should say used to use, the price of a tin now has become ridiculous so I'll be making my own gunk soon using paraffin wax & mineral oil similar to the branded stuff.

There isn't really 'an all rounder' type of product & some fabrics just cant be water/rainproofed due to their construction, such as not having a tight enough weave.

A French army F2 tent though usually has a waterproof coating, so unless you've got an old battered example & the coating has worn off, any product you apply is unlikely to adhere.

 

[knowledge=gain]

I've used Nikwax tent & gear solarproof on both a nylon tent & rucksack. Being water based I thought it would wash off after the first rain but it has held up OK. Although Nikwax products are better for the enviroment & your lungs etc ........if I was going out to camp in some serious rain on a regular basis I would probably chose something like Fabsil as it would likely be more resistant & permanant.

The only clothing I rainproof is a waxed cotton coat & I use Barbour's wax thornproof dressing......I should say used to use, the price of a tin now has become ridiculous so I'll be making my own gunk soon using paraffin wax & mineral oil similar to the branded stuff.

There isn't really 'an all rounder' type of product & some fabrics just cant be water/rainproofed due to their construction, such as not having a tight enough weave.

A French army F2 tent though usually has a waterproof coating, so unless you've got an old battered example & the coating has worn off, any product you apply is unlikely to adhere.

thank you

seems like make ones own concoction be the way forward

i need to test for waterproof for the f2 before taking it on a trip

hopeful to get time to test this week or next

 

[C_Claycomb]

If a tent’s urethane coated nylon has lost its urethane coating, treating with Nikwax or Fabsil won’t rejuvenate its original hydrostatic head resistance. Those treatments are really more about water resistance. DIY coating, like mixing plumber silicone with white spirit, are hit and miss, and will never be as light as the manufactured stuff.

Getting the water to bead and run off is still a worthwhile goal when the urethane coating is intact.

 

[knowledge=gain]

If a tent’s urethane coated nylon has lost its urethane coating, treating with Nikwax or Fabsil won’t rejuvenate its original hydrostatic head resistance. Those treatments are really more about water resistance. DIY coating, like mixing plumber silicone with white spirit, are hit and miss, and will never be as light as the manufactured stuff.

Getting the water to bead and run off is still a worthwhile goal when the urethane coating is intact.

thank you

more for consideration

 

[jackorion]

Regarding Nikwax on cotton/polycotton - I wear work trousers everyday that are made from these materials, how 'waterproof' does the Nikwax make them? I don't need downpour proof but walking-through-long-wet-grass and showerproof would be good...

 

[C_Claycomb]

My experience is that treatments are better at shower proofing than wet grass proofing. Wet grass rubs the water across the fabric so you lose some of the repellent effect. Water is shed when the treatment causes the water to bead up. If the bead is big enough its mass overcomes the attraction to the surface and it slides off.

If I were you I would simply give it a try. If the effect is not what you want, or you don't like it, a couple of washes with regular detergent should the Nikwax out.

Oh, yeah, that's a point, if your work wear gets dirty and needs thorough cleaning, the detergent that does the cleaning will tend to wash out the treatment. Nikwax recommend their own wash, but the liquid soap some super markets sell will also do the job. Its less powerful at lifting oils/waxes than detergent.

Chris

 

[CanopySoup]

Frog tog

 

[jackorion]

My experience is that treatments are better at shower proofing than wet grass proofing. Wet grass rubs the water across the fabric so you lose some of the repellent effect. Water is shed when the treatment causes the water to bead up. If the bead is big enough its mass overcomes the attraction to the surface and it slides off.

If I were you I would simply give it a try. If the effect is not what you want, or you don't like it, a couple of washes with regular detergent should the Nikwax out.

Oh, yeah, that's a point, if your work wear gets dirty and needs thorough cleaning, the detergent that does the cleaning will tend to wash out the treatment. Nikwax recommend their own wash, but the liquid soap some super markets sell will also do the job. Its less powerful at lifting oils/waxes than detergent.

Chris

Cheers Chris - yep my workwear does get dirty! I'm a nature reserve ranger so out in all kinds of muck (up to my ankles in cowpats fixing a fence in the rain last week for example!). I tend to let my gear dry out and brush off the worst of the dirt otherwise I'd be washing it every other day!

 

[knowledge=gain]

Regarding Nikwax on cotton/polycotton - I wear work trousers everyday that are made from these materials, how 'waterproof' does the Nikwax make them? I don't need downpour proof but walking-through-long-wet-grass and showerproof would be good...

have you looked into gaiters

a quick look for british army gaiters shows some on ebay

for reference

• Fully waterproofs your ankles and legs whilst wearing boots

British Army DPM Goretex Gaiters

British Army DPM Goretex Gaiters Genuine British Army gaiters negate the need to wear goretex boots. The widths on both sizes are the same, with a maximum calf circumference of 40cm. Features Include: Full length zipper with velcro closure Drawcord tightening at the top Fully waterproofs your...

www.goarmy.co.uk

 

[Billy-o]

Don't put Barbour dressing on Fjallraven (or any other) type poly-cotton.

 

[hughtrimble]

Don't put Barbour dressing on Fjallraven (or any other) type poly-cotton.

May I ask why? I assumed it's just branding fluff and all are broadly the same compounds.

 

[scubajunky]

Don't put Barbour dressing on Fjallraven (or any other) type poly-cotton.

Why indeed ? I was just about to buy some for G1000 material because I don't think the Greenland wax does the job at all.

 

[stevo 7152]

Used Nikwax cotton proof on my MTP gen2 windproof smock, tried a small area 6" by 2" on the material i removed from the hood modification using a 9 to 1 product to water brushed on.The test worked great water ran off like a ducks back.So I didnt fancy using this stuff in the washing machine for full smock, so i used the hand wash In method followed instructions to the letter not impressed with the results on the full smock some repelency but it wetted out pretty badly.I know the painting by brush at a 9 to 1 ratio is surposed to be for tents but I am tempted to do the whole jacket with this method with what i have left of the product about 150 ml.Anyone any experience of this product? the mtp smock has fleece lined pockets and the cotton proof left a horrible sticky residue on them using the hand wash in method.Sort of wishing I had left it as It was might have retained more breathability untreated,and no sticky pockets.