The CY saw; Diy carbon handle ultralight saw.

[Teepee]

I've made few saws in this style now. This is my latest attempt to cut more weight and pack size for backpacking, whilst keeping the saw at a useable size and sturdy enough to use in anger.

This one's made from carbon fibre for use in the winter-ally is too cold on the hands outside of the warmer seasons.

This one has a lighter 6" Bosch sabre wood blade than all the others I've made-they have been 10" blades.

Handle is from a section of Fox carp landing net handle. 2mm walls mean this is plenty strong enough.

Blade union is polymorph as usual, drilled and tapped to take the aluminium hex bolt and the ring doubles as a screwdriver to tighten the bolt. The union is slightly conical to mate snugly in the end of the handle before tightening with the hex bolt.

The best bit; weighs 42g!

Almost half the weight of my others.

Heres the pics, hope you like;

Pete.

 

[ged]

...weighs 42g! ...

Very impressive! Are you going to go into production?

 

[Teepee]

Cheers Ged

I should do, they don't take long to make. This ones not tested properly yet, I need to give it some abuse.

 

[demographic]

That Polymorph stuff is great, I use it for chisel end covers and if it ever breaks (like when some numpty I worked with hammered the chisel in the wrong way) I just put it into some hot water and moulded it back into shape.
Just like new.

 

[Elines]

Tee design loks good and for me the pack size is more important than the weight (just as well as I don't have any spare carbon fibre tubing) - have you posted anywhere a more detailed explanation of how you make one?

 

[woof]

That looks good Teedee. I was down your way yesterday, canoeing on the 20ft drain.

Rob

 

[born2roam]

This is great! Was thinking about replacing my Laplander (178 gr) for something lighter and I think, even with my (VERY) limited DIY skills I'd give this one a try!

Thanks mate!

Grtz Johan

 

[shaggystu]

that's superb, i've been toying with the idea of making some sort of handle for a jigsaw blade (or something similar) for a while, that seems like a great way of going about it

stuart

 

[Teepee]

That Polymorph stuff is great, I use it for chisel end covers and if it ever breaks (like when some numpty I worked with hammered the chisel in the wrong way) I just put it into some hot water and moulded it back into shape.
Just like new.

Haha! Thats some vacant chiseler! I've a few chisels with polymorph caps now, the stuff is great.

Tee design loks good and for me the pack size is more important than the weight (just as well as I don't have any spare carbon fibre tubing) - have you posted anywhere a more detailed explanation of how you make one?

Cheers Elines. I've not posted instructions yet, theres not been much interest. I'll have a go at putting one on if you want. They are pretty simple to make really, the hardest part is tapping the tread if you dont have taps. It would be a better saw if the bolt wasn't needed-theres a much simpler and more elegant solution to keeping the blade locked to the handle with cord-I haven't thougth of it yet though

That looks good Teedee. I was down your way yesterday, canoeing on the 20ft drain.

Rob

Thanks Rob. I've not paddled the drains yet, I live a bit west of boghorror. Is it any good?

This is great! Was thinking about replacing my Laplander (178 gr) for something lighter and I think, even with my (VERY) limited DIY skills I'd give this one a try!

Thanks mate!

Grtz Johan

Pleasure Johan They won't cut quite as quick as a laplander, but are still very usable. When the blade wears out, a new one costs about £1

that's superb, i've been toying with the idea of making some sort of handle for a jigsaw blade (or something similar) for a while, that seems like a great way of going about it

stuart

Cheers Stu If you make one, get decent blades. The cheapo jobs are useless. Lennox and bosch are the best I've found. I pay a fiver for 5 of these small blades and about £8 for 5 large ones.

 

[woof]

It was my first time out, the 20ft itself is a bit boring, but we turned off it, and that was good, there looks to be some good paddling round there, we were near Turves, where the guy i met up with lives.

Rob

 

[Elines]

"Cheers Elines. I've not posted instructions yet, theres not been much interest. I'll have a go at putting one on if you want. They are pretty simple to make really, the hardest part is tapping the tread if you dont have taps. It would be a better saw if the bolt wasn't needed-theres a much simpler and more elegant solution to keeping the blade locked to the handle with cord-I haven't thougth of it yet though "

Thanks - will have to wait for the elegant solution - don't have any taps for threads

 

[shaggystu]

Thanks - will have to wait for the elegant solution - don't have any taps for threads

i've never worked with polymorph so i'm just guessing really but couldn't you just press the machine screw into the polymorph whilst it's still pliable (maybe with a light oiling first) and then just unscrew it once the polymorph has re-set? that way there's no need at all for any threads to be cut, the hole in the CF handle could be just that, a hole, i don't see any reason why the screw has to be threaded into the handle, it's threaded into the polymorph so the polymorph would act as a nut which would tighten nicely against inside of the handle. you could even (if you thought it necessary) just mould a nut into the polymorph and have the screw tighten into that. or have the bolt running all the way through the handle and tightening against a nut on the other end.

never let lack of tools put you off chris, if we all did that we'd never acheive anything

stuart

 

[Bushwhacker]

Does it need a screw at all?
A thro' hole and something akin to a grenade pin would do the job.

 

[Teepee]

It was my first time out, the 20ft itself is a bit boring, but we turned off it, and that was good, there looks to be some good paddling round there, we were near Turves, where the guy i met up with lives.

Rob

I'll check it out sometime from the kayak, the fishing can be superb on the drains.

i've never worked with polymorph so i'm just guessing really but couldn't you just press the machine screw into the polymorph whilst it's still pliable (maybe with a light oiling first) and then just unscrew it once the polymorph has re-set? that way there's no need at all for any threads to be cut, the hole in the CF handle could be just that, a hole, i don't see any reason why the screw has to be threaded into the handle, it's threaded into the polymorph so the polymorph would act as a nut which would tighten nicely against inside of the handle. you could even (if you thought it necessary) just mould a nut into the polymorph and have the screw tighten into that. or have the bolt running all the way through the handle and tightening against a nut on the other end.

never let lack of tools put you off chris, if we all did that we'd never acheive anything

stuart

I think that would work Stu, as long as the hole is tight enough fit to keep the bolt straight whilst moulding. Good thinking-no taps needed

Surely its possible to make this union with an arrangement of string and a connical wooden peg/toggle, much more bushcrafty. Even a tight fitting peg with a sleeve of leather or rubber over the peg and handle to stop it coming out would work-the polymorph is plenty strong enough to handle the force. This would lose the need for a bolt altogether.

 

[Teepee]

Does it need a screw at all?
A thro' hole and something akin to a grenade pin would do the job.

Good idea. Even simpler!

 

[Teepee]

Update on this;

Its done 3 backpacking trips now. The last trip saw it roll into the fire and lose a 1" section from the end of the handle, its being replaced. The handle tube has also hairline cracked at the blade end-it needs whipping with thread for re-inforcement, the same as carbon fibre fishing rods are re-inforced at the ferrule.

Its a useful tool for me and handy for doing stop cuts and cutting smaller firewood for not much weight penalty.