The blade of my Opinel

[Daniel]

I carry in my pocket an Opinel 5, which I've made my own by reshaping the handle. Because it's such a trusty knife, I've just ordered an Opinel 8 for taking with me when camping, however when it arrives I would like to re-shape the blade...

I remember reading a post that someone had re-shappen their opinel blade to be a drop point blade, but can't find the post...

The trouble I'm having is thinking of the right tool for the job (filing the back of the point down to a drop point shape). I'm thinking a file of somekind, but not sure exactly. Anyone have any idea what would be best? or anyone actually done this to an opinel, and can tell me what they used??

Thanks,
Dan

 

[steven andrews]

I'd like to know too..I'd like to drop-point one of my no8's..

 

[JFW]

Hi guys,

I remember reading somewhere that a dremmel cutting tool was used to do the majority of the work and was then finished with files and wet and dry.
You might want to post this over on British Blades for a fuller answer.

Cheers

JFW

 

[Motorbike Man]

I would say go with the dremel route. Otherwise I think you may be there for a while with handfiles, but if you do, diamond files may be better on the hardened steel

 

[Daniel]

Does the type of steel make a difference for the tool you would use? The one I have is carbon steel...

You might want to post this over on British Blades for a fuller answer.

I'll also post this thread on british blades like you suggested, thanks!!

 

[MartiniDave]

I've done a couple of opinel blades over the years, an ordinary file works ok, if a little slowly. Try to file more along the blade than across it, away from the handle to the tip.
Even though I've got reshaped opinels, I still tend to use the standard blade shape more, don't know why but that's how it is.

Dave

 

[Daniel]

Thanks Dave, when you say 'an ordinary file', being one not familiar with files, I guess there are more than one type?

Which type did you use?

 

[stevec]

i'dhave though that an bog standard metal work file from halfords/hombase/b&q/wicks/local hardwear store would do. youmight want to go for a double cut file, the pattern looks like a lot of X's for want of a better description, they cut faster. also remember only apply pressure on the push stroke, files don't cut on the pull stroke generally, and with a hardened piece of steel you'll likly damage the cut of the file. on the other hand, places like argos/index etc usually sell cheapo dremel's that would do the job a lot quicker.
hope all goes well
sc

 

[Doc]

Stating the obvious I know, but if you Dremel it wear eye protection.

I've removed a lot of corneal foreign bodies from folks who didn't while grinding steel.

 

[Motorbike Man]

If you want to buy a dremel tool, see if there is a Maplin Electronics near you as they have some very good prices on 18v ones

 

[Hoodoo]

You might try a coarse carborundum stone.

 

[JimH]

I remember reading a post that someone had re-shappen their opinel blade to be a drop point blade, but can't find the post...

The trouble I'm having is thinking of the right tool for the job (filing the back of the point down to a drop point shape). I'm thinking a file of somekind, but not sure exactly. Anyone have any idea what would be best? or anyone actually done this to an opinel, and can tell me what they used??

Thanks,
Dan

'Twas I, amongst others.

I last used 2 quidsworth of cheap file from a local tool emporium. It was about 30 teeth per inch. It's the same one I use on my (cheap) axes.

The (carbon) Opinel blades are soft enough that anything much should do. I've used the edge of a cheap coarse waterstone before now, at the cost of a slot in the stone (which is good for fish-hook points)

I found resting the blade edge embedded in a plank on top of my B&D Workmate gave a good working height. Extend and lock the blade, sink the edge, and work in smooth strokes toward the point along the spine of the blade from around the fingernail slot (where the spine is kinked) and work it to a smooth curve with the point wherever it pleases you most...

Dremel definite overkill, in my view. I think it took me about 10 mins with the file...

Hope this helps,

Jim.

 

[leon-1]

I would suggest you stick with files as JimH did, with files you have far more control over the end result.

With the dremmel it is all too easy to make a mistake that you will then have to live with, with the high speeds that those disks are running at if you slip or grind too far then the whole project goes down the drain, only a suggestion and a point of view

 

[Daniel]

'Twas I, amongst others.

Ah yes I remeber it was you now! Cheers you tips have helped loads!
You think it would be best to have the blade held in place by sinking into some wood whilst filing, rather than holding with one hand and filing with the other??

I havn't got a 'workbench' or anything, so do you think a piece of plank something rested on a table would do?


I should have the Opinel this week, so maybe will be done by the weekend! I'll post the finished item up when done!

Cheers for all your tips everyone!
Dan

 

[dtalbot]

Secure the plank to the table somehow, G clamp or similar should do it and you should be fine. Or pick up one of the cheapo workmate copies from your local hardware shop or Machine Mart. Mine cost about a tenner from MM and while it aint as sturdy as a more expensive one it certainly does what I need it for.

 

[JimH]

You think it would be best to have the blade held in place by sinking into some wood whilst filing, rather than holding with one hand and filing with the other??

I havn't got a 'workbench' or anything, so do you think a piece of plank something rested on a table would do?Dan

Didn't express myself too well.

I held the knife by the handle, spine up, point away from me and upward at an angle of maybe 30 degrees off horizontal, then rested the blade on the wood (blade running with the grain). The filing pressure embedded it in the first couple of strokes, which made the whole arrangement nice and stable.

Of course, you have to be careful not to twist the handle or apply much force sideways, or you may take a chunk out of the blade edge...

Plank will be fine if it is heavy or G-clamped/strapped down.

Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

Jim.

 

[Daniel]

Cheers Jim, I received the knife this morning, so will hopefully be doing it on the weekend! I'll let you know how it works out!

 

[Daniel]

I received the knife last weekend, and finished the blade last weekend too, but just havn't got round to posting it until now.

I used a file to get most of the blade down to the shap I wanted, and then used the side of an old coarse waterstone to finish off the shaping and smooth the part I had filed.

Havn't yet got round to reshaping the handle to 'fit' the new shape of the blade. Anywho, here's a pic if anyone's interested:

 

[JimH]

I used a file to get most of the blade down to the shap I wanted, and then used the side of an old coarse waterstone to finish off the shaping and smooth the part I had filed.

Good stuff, glad it worked out well. You should find it makes the point tougher, as it's less long and thin. If you are like me, you'll find the point shape and alignment more convenient for use, too.

Jim.

 

[Daniel]

And here's the handle, just done this afternoon. Just needs some oiling and I'm finished