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The Best Knife

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Someone mentioned that Stainless blades don't seem to work as well with a Firesteel. I use a Fallkniven H1 and can find no fault in its performance with the Firesteel - I think the important thing is having a good square edge on the back of the knife, which the H1 does. For those interested the H1 uses a steel called VG10, it's corrosion resistance is incredible and can be taken to shave sharp relatively easily.

I also have no complaints when using Frosts 780 or Clipper knives with Firesteels.
 
I'd love to get myself a Woodlore knife but can't bring myself to part with the cash!
My first choice fixed blade is presently a Helle Eggen, which is a puukko with a laminated stainless blade that takes a great edge, and feels very good in the hand. I also like to have a swiss army - usually the Huntsman model and or an opinel in my pocket too.
There seems to be quite a fad in the states at present to "customise" opinels by regrinding the blade to a drop point and reshaping the handle, I've tried it but can't really say its worth the effort as I've been using the standard knife for - my god - over 30 years now.
When out and about in my old series 3 land rover I find a leatherman quite handy to keep around too, as you never know what will pack up next!

Dave
 
harry said:
I've got a few opinels. I really want to try out the saw. Anyone used it?
Click to expand...

I'm coming in a bit late, here, but yes, I have an Opinel saw...

I broke one, and have been more careful with the second.

I use mine around the garden, and out in the woods for collecting pieces of robinia and of my "mystery wood"...

I broke the blade, through impatience and inexperience. I was cutting green wood too quickly. The blade jammed, I pushed, it snapped. I think that there is a slight defect with the blade design and manufacture, in that the blade is quite wide, and not backed-off enough above the teeth.

(I'm not sure about saw terminology, but in twist-drill terms, backing-off is a slight reduction in diameter between the cutting tip and the flutes that clear out the swarf and chips; this gives a bit of clearance between the material and the drill, so it shouldn't grip.)

I also have a Fox folding saw. This has a plastic handle with rubber inserts, and feels cheaper. The packaging is a good laugh. Big text on the front announces "Blade made from SK5 Carbon Steel". On the back, there is a helpful explanation: "SK5, steel with a carbon content greater than 50%, exceptional resistance and long life".

Keith.
 
Hi Keith,

Opinels saws have what Japanese call a cross-cut teeth design. It is designed to cut across the wood grain very well, but works a lot less when cutting with the grain. They are designed to be pulled only. The opinel I reckon could receive a bit of setting of the teeth, but that is difficult to do without a proper tool.
 
Anonymous said:
Hi Keith,

Opinels saws have what Japanese call a cross-cut teeth design. It is designed to cut across the wood grain very well, but works a lot less when cutting with the grain. They are designed to be pulled only. The opinel I reckon could receive a bit of setting of the teeth, but that is difficult to do without a proper tool.
Click to expand...

Yes, I know that it only cuts on the pull... in fact there's a big "PULL CUT ACTION" barf along the beech handle... or there was, until it got worn away by my skin.

But the time I broke the blade, I had the limb jutting out to the right, and had'nt thought about going round to the other side, putting my left hand on top of the limb to bear down and keep the cut open... Everything was going well, I was into a good rythm, and after a good pull cut, I pushed forwards, the blade was gripped by the wet green wood, and I snapped the steel...

I still have the blade and the knife. I could have the break micrographed to see the grain structure, but what's the point? Misused blade == no refund.

In any case, it makes a good project: replace the saw blade with a Damascus steel knife blade!

Keith.
 
After reading all the posts relating to folding saws I thought I'd offer my tuppence worth!

For the last year or so I've been using a 'Topgun' folding saw made by Silky Fox. It's excellent - sharp enough to cut you looking at it, no problem in either green or dead wood, a very positive and safe lock, and even available in bright / matt colours (mine is yellow with black rubber finger grips so I can't lose it in the woods!)

In common with many other products available, it works on the 'pull to cut' principle. It is also being offered by many of the companies which supply arborist equipment - I've used it both aloft and on the ground and it even works upside-down!

Seriously though, it is a good product. Perhaps it would make an interesting review to compare a Silky with the Laplander, an Opinel saw and any others anyone would care to recommend. How about it?
 
Bob said:
Seriously though, it is a good product. Perhaps it would make an interesting review to compare a Silky with the Laplander, an Opinel saw and any others anyone would care to recommend. How about it?
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Bob, a timely comment.

We are in the process of getting hold of about 8 different folding saws (it's hard work!) and we plan to do a comparison. We are waiting for Silky to get back to us. Hopefully it will be soon as I am looking forward to seeing if the Laplander is indeed the best for bushcraft.

The announcement of the folding saw test will be out in the newsletter.

Cheers

Tone
 
I must admit I am a big fan of the laplander, its very robust, stays sharp for ages, has a dependable locking mechanisms, rarely binds and doesn't rust. You can also replace the blade when its finally knackered. I've had mine for about 4 years with fairly regular use and its still going strong. Anyone else have an opinion on these.
 
hiya folks, my first post here, but i see a couple of well used handles from other forums, hiya roger! long time no see...

one saw i'd recommend sticking in the test is the humble stanleyknife saw, you can buy the blade with or without the stanley knife handle in just about any diy shop. if you buy the blade on it's own it's only a couple of quid. they do wood or metal specific blades.

cheers, and.
 
Dave Farrant said:
This is a question that has always interested me.
At present I am into my Billing Hook for larger constructions.
The Blade is like a Machette but with a forward curve at the end.
I would like some advice on how to sharpen the curved blade.
Any Ideas?
Click to expand...

Dave

Billhooks are generally sharpened with a "Scythe or canoe Stone" They are usually available from where you purchased your billhook, or farm suppliers

Look here for how to do it... http://handbooks.btcv.org.uk/handbooks/content/section/1725

And here for a supplier
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/tools.asp?parent=2I6202P1814M0
 
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