Takedown bucksaw

John Elstob

Forager
Aug 18, 2019
137
76
47
Darlington
so, after reading the comments and helpful hints and tips about tightening the windless. I first tried to eliminate any blade play by tightening the windless, unfortunately I managed to snap the Bankline I had used to replace the original para cord cordage that came with the saw. I then remembered that I had some Dyneema cordage so I thought I would give this a go. Apart from being neon green, it also has a very low stretch (which paracord and bankline seem to do at certain point of stress)And lo and behold I have now managed to successfully tighten the saw sufficiently to where there is no flex in the blade. When using the bank line, and the original para cord lashing the blade would always have some flex when pressing down on the bottom half of the saw where the blade was fixed. This has now been eliminated, causing a much better straighter curf when cutting
 
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C_Claycomb

Moderator staff
Mod
Oct 6, 2003
7,657
2,727
Bedfordshire
When trying to tension by twisting a looped cord, the cord has to be low stretch and it is of great benefit if it is not thin and prone to flattening. For a bucksaw a 4mm 16-plait polyester is excellent, double looped. Dyneema is good in that it does not stretch, but it does not tend to maintain its round cross section. Strength-wise you could get by with a single loop of Dyneema, but for tensioning you probably want more so that the twist has some bulk to work with. More bulk = more deviation from a straight line = more tension with fewer turns.

Let us know how you get on with the tensioned blade. :D
 

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