If you're out in the no-wheres there is almost always more than enough wood to keep a sensible fire going if you look around a bit, without having to resort to splitting troublesome knot-filled logs.
Good point

If you're out in the no-wheres there is almost always more than enough wood to keep a sensible fire going if you look around a bit, without having to resort to splitting troublesome knot-filled logs.
Axes are of limited use when splitting - really they top out at small to medium trunks. Somewhere on here there is an illustrated article on how not to damage an axe helve when splitting that I wrote years ago. One of the main things is to have a proper chopping block at knee high or higher - not around your ankles. Your helve should be parallel to the ground at impact
Good angle by British Red, on Flickr
If you are splitting a lot of large or difficult wood, maul, steel wedge and sledgehammer are the way to go
5) Hand tools by British Red, on Flickr
With the right tools, metal pounding metal is the only way to go.
I've been using a splitter since I worked casually for a purveyor of quality firewood as a lad. £30 for 5 tonnes split, you'd be there all day with an axe, with a splitter on the other hand (is that what your calling a maul ? on the right after the sledgehammer) a fit organised lad would have it done by lunchtime or shortly after.
That's the puppy - more of a sledgehammer with a wedge on one end than an axe
In a long term winter northern wilderness travel type situation, would anyone consider taking a Splitting Maul,
Up here thats what we call a splitter or splitting axe, not to be confused with the ever increasing number of hydraulic splitting machines that people now simply term "splitters".
A good selection of tools that, is that a US made "Plumb" wrecking bar, by any chance?
Blimey, no.
I've split a 12ft 8" branch with a GB Mini hatchet.
Locate seasoned, sound branches 4" or so in diameter. Use hatchet to shape several wedges.
Locate sound 6" branch. Cut 24" length, taper 10" length of it to suitable diameter for your hand. This is your maul.
Strike the 12ft branch with hatchet, opening up small crack. Insert wedge and pound in with maul. Insert another wedge further along and repeat.
You know I have a feeling its an Aldi oneThey did a range of sizes for cheap years ago and I asked my buddy to get me one or more - he picked up a range of 4 for a total of £12 - this one is ideal when those gnarly fibres hold split bits together
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Not if you use your legs, arms and back so that the axe is 'falling' rather than 'swinging'. When the head hits the target, the haft should be parallel with the ground. Not only is this safer, but it means that you are driving the axe head straight down through the wood.One thing I find interesting in the pictures of people chopping wood, is that everyone does it standing up. If you miss the block and follow through, the axe has a good chance of hitting your lower legs.
J
Good technique is always a good way to avoid injury - pictures of folk kneeling to chop wood always make me think that they are missing the spring and balance that their legs give....
I ain't never seen pictures of professional axe-men kneeling...
Racing axemen use their legs, back, whole body (it used to be a big deal in rural australia). They aren't allowed PPE; if you need protection on your feet then you aren't skilled enough to be allowed to compete. Plimsols and white trousers are compulsory.
Good technique is always a good way to avoid injury - pictures of folk kneeling to chop wood always make me think that they are missing the spring and balance that their legs give....
I ain't never seen pictures of professional axe-men kneeling...
At the splitting block one wants to be standing, with the axe/splitter fully extended at the end of the swing to land the head squarely on the target, and as such there should be no reason for injuring ones legs. When splitting sticks there should be no one or anything that could be damaged, anything that could cause issue with the swing (washing lines etc) within the radius of the swing.
You also want to be putting the log on the far side of the block so if you fall short you hit the block rather than the ground. This is if you have a competent axewoman doing the work. I would however suggest that for most situations, the safest way to chop firewood is kneeling down with a small-medium axe, much less to go wrong, much more idiot proof.
J
Actually its the small axe that is the problem. A full size (36" helve) axe will strike the ground before it hits your legs, even if you are standing. The additional weight of a full sized axe, splitting axe or maul will take far less effort and be far safer than using a small axe.
Clearly a small axe has the advantage of portability - but (in splitting terms) that really is the only advantage IMO. A larger axe, with a good, two handed technique, is less likely to cause injury, is more efficient and will process larger wood.