Small Hunter prototype

[SoldierPalmer]

Hey all,

I’m thinking of doing a small run of these in the new year. With a couple of tweaks such as a lanyard hole at the back and adding a touch of extra length to the handle. Any ways I’ve made this prototype for my self to use. If any one has any input please comment as I’m always open to new ideas and opinions.

 

[gra_farmer]

Personal taste here and not knocking your design.

For the over head / top view, the handle shaping is about perfect for my use, and locks the handle in the hand, so I would not feel the need for the curve/tail at the end of the handle.

Also what are the dimensions? And the intended design use? As that is important for me. Nice knife

 

[SoldierPalmer]

Sorry I should have added the dimensions.
The spine thickness is 3mm but tapers on the handle and the blade. It’s hidden a little by the false edge on the top. The blade length is 4 inches with a 4 1/2 inch handle (fits my hand perfectly) steel type is 80crv2

You are right about the point at the butt of the knife. I’ve added this as the metal ever so slightly proceeds the handle material and can be used as an emergency glass smasher. I’m also aware such things can dig in to your hand during use, I think I have managed to include it without it being an issue. Through my personal use so far I’ve had no issues with it. I also like the aesthetic of it. I’m a fan of curves.

As it’s a full flat grind with a micro bevel it’s primarily an every day user with main uses being skinning and slicing having a more robust grind than a scandi carving wood is just fine too. You just adjust your angle slightly for feather sticking.

It doesn’t show well in the first photo but the blade also has patterns on it. Easier to see in this one.

 

[C_Claycomb]

Hunting being different from the wood cutting aspect of bushcraft, I think the handle is a bit too fat and round at the front nearest the blade. Lots of game prep work is done with the knife flat in the hand, holding the front of the handle in a pinch grip. Thinner, flatter handles are easier to hold and manipulate like this, especially if the handle is bloody.

Butt end, not sure about that pronounced hook, it might lock the hand in place in a hammer grip, but lots of skinning stuff involves sabre grip and the hand moving into lots of positions. I think the hook would work well enough if it was smaller. When skinning stuff, my main interest is in not slipping forward onto the blade, having solid purchase for pulling back on the blade is functional, but not so much about safety and the Coke bottle shape really helps provide surface for purchase.

From a durability stand point, the corner where the sides of the handle meet the face of the butt is a weak point, prone to getting chipped. I would round that corner over, maybe even doming the butt face. Will make it more comfortable too if the user has bigger hands and/or holds the handle so the butt is sitting in the hand.

Leading edge of handle, where handle meets blade on each side of ricasso, I would recommend the handle face being bevelled to a sharp chisel edge where it meets the steel. This area can get dirty and is a good place for rust to start. Its easier to clean if the handle/ricasso join is bigger than 90degrees, easier to get a tissue wrapped finger in to clean right to the bottom of the angle.

Blade shape looks good!

Best of luck

Chris

 

[SoldierPalmer]

Thanks for the input Chris I’ll take this on bored and incorporate this into the next one, regarding the weak spots do you mean this area where my thumb nail is?

For better grip and cleaning access reducing the bump between the handle and the metal here?

 

[C_Claycomb]

"....regarding the weak spots do you mean this area where my thumb nail is?"

Yes, that is the spot. Sharp lines look great, but if the knife is dropped you can lose a chip. Maybe it isn't a common problem, but it has happened to me on a couple, one was a particularly nice handle that I would rather it not have happened on. Showing it to the neighbour and he dropped it butt first on the stone path. I have done varying degrees of rounding on different knives. Easiest to show what I mean with a sketch. Doming makes for a stronger corner, doming and rounding the corners themselves makes it even stronger, and obviously a little gentler on hands.


Handle front, the two factors. The bevel for cleaning looks like this, harder to do when the front edge is curved, as on your design

Much easier when straight.

Doesn't need much, you can test with some scrap on a flat surface, just want enough opening of the angle so you can run a finger/cloth around and easily reach the bottom of the corner.

For comparison, a Lion Steel with 90deg scales.


I don't make many hunting knives, but my "bushcraft" knives mostly have a slight widening at the front that helps with pinch grip. If I was aiming for hunting, I would aim to have a little flat or something to help locate the pinching thumb. I would look at Loveless style hunters to see what I mean about flatter sides at the handle front.

Neat trick for keeping glue off blade, sometimes works really well, brown packing tape, stuck to blade, dry fit scale, scalpel cut tape to trace front of scale, remove scale, peal off tape from where scale fits. Glue down, blade is masked, can wipe glue away from join and not worry about getting it on the steel. Pealing off tape while glue is just a little soft still (mine takes over 24 hours to fully cure, so next morning is fine for me). Much less scraping to do with brass chisel.

All the best and good luck!

Chris