SIGG Tourist & SVEA 123R

[johnboy]

It leaked petrol so I soldered it.

That's the actual Primus repair method. The idea is a rise in internal pressure ( to dangerous levels) is generally due to an excessive rise in Temp, prolonged running with inadequate ventilation or an overly large pot with a lot of reflected heat etc.

The tank temp rises the solder on the pin melts or softens and the pin drops allowing the pressure in the tank to vent. As the 'pressure' is a fuel air mix and the stove is generally running then you get a bit of a flame... Same with the pressure relieving cap.. IIRC someone over on CCS did some tests on caps and found there was quite a wide variance on the pressure setting they are set to.

I'd say if you made the repair with regular solder not silver solder or Brazing rod and it's now air tight and leak proof and you run the stove as intended with adequate ventilation then it'll be fine.

I might have a tank cap floating around here somewhere. If you really want a belt and braces approach. PM me if that the case...

 

[bilmo-p5]

Bear in mind that the earlier 71s have smaller fillers than the later ones. A p/r cap may be too big.

 

[rik_uk3]

I like the 210's, sadly the day of picking up good ones for a tenner are gone

 

[johnboy]

I like the 210's, sadly the day of picking up good ones for a tenner are gone

Not here.... Although they are thin on the ground these days... I had a 1 pint Hippolito a while ago for NZ $10.00

I blame internet forums...

 

[rik_uk3]

You can knock up a cap seal from a sliver of wine cork or sharp scissors on a bit of old leather. John(?) is right that some 71's are too tall for the No7 case, no big deal, pick up an 80, well less than £50, take your time and bid low and often; you will get one

This thread has bought on a bout of guilt for me with stoves not being used

 

[Teepee]

That's the actual Primus repair method. The idea is a rise in internal pressure ( to dangerous levels) is generally due to an excessive rise in Temp, prolonged running with inadequate ventilation or an overly large pot with a lot of reflected heat etc.

The tank temp rises the solder on the pin melts or softens and the pin drops allowing the pressure in the tank to vent. As the 'pressure' is a fuel air mix and the stove is generally running then you get a bit of a flame... Same with the pressure relieving cap.. IIRC someone over on CCS did some tests on caps and found there was quite a wide variance on the pressure setting they are set to.

I'd say if you made the repair with regular solder not silver solder or Brazing rod and it's now air tight and leak proof and you run the stove as intended with adequate ventilation then it'll be fine.

I might have a tank cap floating around here somewhere. If you really want a belt and braces approach. PM me if that the case...

Brilliant! Time to take off my Nomex suit then
`
Thanks Johnboy