I've got a Mora that i'm looking to touch up the edge on and a DC4 (new style i think) but haven't got anything to secure it down to a surface with, whats the best way to sharpen with it if i can't clamp it down? any suggestions? I'm assuming stone in one hand, Mora in the other but i'd be more comfortable with it on a surface till i can get a good technique, i also lack a strop so i think that's out, unless a cheap £4 belt from ASDA is good for stroping but i doubt it...
Sharpening with DC4, no vice/clamps
- Thread starter Lister
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Dont know if this will work. If not do a youtube search for 'ray mears sharpening in the field'.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D4y8u_iJf1M
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=D4y8u_iJf1M
dampen a chopping board, should stop it from slipping, or place it ontop of a bit of leather on a worktop, or a bit of rubber, even a thin tea towl on to a wooden surface should aid with the stone on top, or the good old nail in the board at either end to pin it still, hope that helps chap,
I saw uncle ray's vid and that was a first thought but lacking nails and wooden chopping boards i have to (at present) dismiss that idea, might hae a rubber mat in my PC repair kit, will have a butchers, welcome others ideas though
i hold the knife blade up and use the stone free hand,
How about some old innertube, lay the stone on that and it might stop it sliding. Never tried it but might work
I've cut a bit of nop-slip mat to match the size of the DC4. The mat can be bought from places like Wilkos or the £ shop etc. I've cut it so I can fold it over the DC4 when not in use and it goes in the pouch along with the D4 (hope that makes sense!)
Going to see what i come up with, what would make a good strop if you don't have a leather belt? (I may have to butcher my DC4 pouch if nothing else, I read here that the inner leather is OK for a strop)
For home you can use a piece of thick flat cardboard loaded with autosol as a strop.
The inner of the DC4 pooch works a treat. Unpick the stitching and reverse it then re-sew, still have a pooch and a strop too.
The inner of the DC4 pooch works a treat. Unpick the stitching and reverse it then re-sew, still have a pooch and a strop too.
rather than restitching, do you think installing zips to the sides would be a good idea? that way you get the full length of the pouch as opposed to just one side, although i imagine sewing on a zip to each side would be a ***** to do
The DC4 is thick enough, (for me at least) to use in the hand, (or finger tips), what I normally do is keep the stone in my right hand (right handed) and the knife in my left hand, switching it toward and away from me as I sharpen, that way I can eye along the edge as I'm sharpening, both edges, and normally use a circular motion with the stone hand, keeping the knife hand still.
Exactly my thoughts, juts use it in your hand.
or rest it on your leg and stable it with your left hand and work the blade with your right. Do people actually nail theirs to wood and stuff?! haha!
deffinately cut the pouch open and restitch it so you can strop on it, laod it with a bit of autosol and it'll get your knife good and sharp!
or rest it on your leg and stable it with your left hand and work the blade with your right. Do people actually nail theirs to wood and stuff?! haha!
deffinately cut the pouch open and restitch it so you can strop on it, laod it with a bit of autosol and it'll get your knife good and sharp!
Ok, i've made a start, the knife was sharp-ish before i started (so there is a chance all it needed was a strop but i digress), started on the course side (again probably a bad move) and did around 30 passes on 1/2" sections of the blade to the top, then flipped the knife over and did the same, tested in my nail and it pulled slightly (a good sign i believe) so then flipped to the fine side and did the same amount of counts, tested on paper and it doesn't feather it particularly nicely but feathers all-the-same, i think more passes on the fine side are needed but we'll see how it goes.
I'm using the DC4 from new so have heard about how coarse the course side can be so might just use the fine side and see if i can get it sharper, then look at trying to find a strop.
I'm using the DC4 from new so have heard about how coarse the course side can be so might just use the fine side and see if i can get it sharper, then look at trying to find a strop.
just out of curiosity; why bother unstitching, reversing, and re-stitching your DC3/4 sheath before slathering it in autosol, what on earth does it gain you? i've used autosol on all sorts of things, up to and including my own skin, and i've never noticed any real difference in performance between the different surfaces. after all it's the autosol that's doing the cutting not the "whatever" that it's applied to
cheers
stuart
cheers
stuart
because the raw side takes the autosol on quite well, and it leave the other side to be stropped on without any stropping paste. Two grades of stropping in the end.
I don't like fallkniven either, and wanted to hide that name when I used the pouch!
Did you strop it after chap, straight off the stones it will still have a wire edge, this will effect the cut.
alas i have no strop so not yet, trying to think of things to use as an alternative, don't thikn the leg of my trousers will work somehow
if you wear jeans it will be fine, though probably better to use some old jeans and put a small book under them, have you got any furniture made from pine, you can run the edge down the grain of the wood a few times too,
.....I don't like fallkniven either, and wanted to hide that name when I used the pouch!
now that's my kind of reason
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