Sharpening my F1

[ChrisW]

I seem to be having trouble keeping my F1 really sharp using my DC4, so I thought I'd pop on here to ask for some tips (the trouble with using the DC4 is I can never seem to get the tip as sharp as the base of the blade).

I was going to just jump straight in and ask what's the best method, but then I read the sharpening tips thread, which mentions that wet & dry type paper on a soft surface is an excellent way to sharpen them (I've seen many demonstrations of this method on you tube).

So now my question is - what grades would make up a good sharpening kit?

Cheers
Chris

 

[eraaij]

I usually make those out of 400/500 grit paper. Keep the older ones, since they basically make a good grit for polishing.

For getting that final mirror finish strop - put some chrome polish on a thick piece of cardboard or leather that is glued to a board. Light, cheap and works a treat.

-Emile

 

[Shewie]

I made one of British Reds £5 sets before I got some waterstones using 240, 400, 600 and 1200 wet and dry.
The 240 is really for taking out any nicks but then progress through to the finest you can get. Then finish off with a good stropping like Emile says.

 

[Asa Samuel]

rather than doing one stroke for the whole blade (which is near impossible on a DC4 as you run out of room I use this technique http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/307-DC4-Diamond-Ceramic-Whetstone/ the video is just under the main picture, he pushes it backwards and forwards putting pressure on the forward stroke only, then keeps doing it numerous times along the blades length.

Also, make sure that you are keeping the right angle alll the way to the tip, try looking at the cratches on the bevel to see where you are sharpening, or put felt-tip pen all over the bevel so you can see where it is being worn-off, I think it is most likely to be an angle issue so try keeping at eye on your angle when sharpening.

 

[ChrisW]

rather than doing one stroke for the whole blade (which is near impossible on a DC4 as you run out of room I use this technique http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/307-DC4-Diamond-Ceramic-Whetstone/ the video is just under the main picture, he pushes it backwards and forwards putting pressure on the forward stroke only, then keeps doing it numerous times along the blades length.

Also, make sure that you are keeping the right angle alll the way to the tip, try looking at the cratches on the bevel to see where you are sharpening, or put felt-tip pen all over the bevel so you can see where it is being worn-off, I think it is most likely to be an angle issue so try keeping at eye on your angle when sharpening.

I have seen this clip before and I do try and do it like this, but I think I'm finding it hard to use the stone with the convex grind. On my frosts carving knife (scandi grind) I find it much easier to use successfully (well, I get a better edge on the frosts and I suppose I've made the link in my mind to the convex grind being more difficult).

 

[Asa Samuel]

Ah, to sharpen a convex edge you need to go at it a completely different way.

Take some wet n dry and put it on something slightly squishy (like a mousemat) and pull the blade (spine leading and edge trailing like you are stropping on a belt) I think there are other ways but this seems easy enough.

 

[spamel]

It is possible with a DC4, I tend to use the stone on the blade as opposed to the blade on the stone if you get what I mean. All a convex grind is is a scandi grind and secondary bevel with the corners knocked off! Once you think of it like that, you'll have no worries, and holding the blade still whilst you use the stone on the blade allows you to see exactly what is happening as you go along.

 

[HillBill]

Ah, to sharpen a convex edge you need to go at it a completely different way.

Take some wet n dry and put it on something slightly squishy (like a mousemat) and pull the blade (spine leading and edge trailing like you are stropping on a belt) I think there are other ways but this seems easy enough.

I go edge forward on the one i had until yesterday. It has never had a chip on the edge or anything so the grits i used with it were 400, 600, 1000, 1200 and a strop on a leather belt. No problem shaving hairs at any time.

Once you have it at shaving sharp it only needs a strop every now and again. I only got the wet and dry on it twice in 8 months.

 

[Asa Samuel]

Why the cange?

I always heard that edge trailing gave burrs but using the wet n dry on mousepads I've not heard of edge forward, I don't own a convex edge so everything I've said could be bogus

 

[Dougster]

Get in touch with Jedadiah and buy yourself a sharpening kit amount of micromesh. I use it for up to 8000 grit convex sharpening on a mouse mat and my F1 (and others) have wickedly sharp edges.

 

[British Red]

I've just horribly trashed "Beater" (my large convex knife) performing emergency surgery on a flail cutter (dont ask....seriously...don't ). A bit of mouse mat glued to a sanding block and starting from 240 grit will restore it though. I'm up to 600 grit right now ...think its going to be two sheets of 600 though....really was a nasty amount of damage

Nothing expensive needed though ...just a "Hoodoo hone" and time and some cheap old Wet & Dry - don't press too hard - blade weight alone will work.

I used to always go edge leading but Hoodoo told me he leads with the spine. I tried it - it works just as well. So long as you strop the wire off at the end I don't discern much difference tbh

Red

 

[ChrisW]

Thanks for all the tips

Cheers
Chris