Sharpening an axe.

THOaken

Native
Jan 21, 2013
1,299
1
30
England(Scottish Native)
Hello, I need to sharpen my axe as it's getting fairly dull and the edge has a few nicks on it. I just wonder though as I'm watching Ben Orford's tutorial on how to sharpen an axe with the waterstone, he uses a marker to colour in his axe's bevel. It's unclear to me where I should colour in mine as it doesn't have a clearly defined end. The green line indicates what Ben's axe bevel is like. Will it impact my sharpening if I only vaguely colour in the edge? Obviously the reason for doing so is to provide a good guideline for the material that should be removed, but, again, I can't really see where I should colour it in.

Cez305h.jpg
 

Goatboy

Full Member
Jan 31, 2005
14,956
18
Scotland
Interesting, I've seen it done and personally never seen the point myself. Have always used a stone/file free hand on an axe either following the form already there or re-shaping by hand/eye. Could be of use on finer blades or when setting up a new profile I suppose but have never felt the need on an axe.
Sorry if it's not the answer you're looking for THOaken but it's just how I do it and there are probably much better axe sharpeners out there who'll disagree (or it wouldn't be BCUK:lmao:).
 

Shewie

Mod
Mod
Dec 15, 2005
24,259
25
48
Yorkshire
There's not really a set line as such Taylor, it tapers out. Because the blade has a convex grind the sharpening motion is circular and not at a set angle. The idea of adding marker pen is so you can see where you're taking the metal away, once you've been at it a while you'll get the feel for it and won't need to mark the blade.

Not sure if that helps or confuses it even more :)

Have you read British Red's how to? ...
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22814
 

HillBill

Bushcrafter through and through
Oct 1, 2008
8,163
157
W. Yorkshire
Wet and dry over foam as per Johns pic above is the simplest way there has ever been to sharpen a convex edge.





 

Johnnyboy1971

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Dec 24, 2010
4,155
26
53
Yorkshire
Personally I wouldn't go with a stone if you don't have the experience. Also don't practice on your decent axe, buy a beater for a couple of quid and practice on that.
The board I pictured just requires a similar stroke to sharpening a knife, the foam allows the bevel to sink giving you a convex bevel.
 

Stringmaker

Native
Sep 6, 2010
1,891
1
UK
I sympathise with Taylor; I have a GB hand hatchet with a convex edge and I am rubbish at sharpening it.

The one question to which everyone seems to have different opinions is this:

"How much pressure do you apply to the edge?"

I am aware of the wet/dry paper and foam backing technique but couldn't do anything more than blunt my hatchet even more!

So let us know folks, how hard DO you press?
 

HillBill

Bushcrafter through and through
Oct 1, 2008
8,163
157
W. Yorkshire
You don't put the pressure on the edge.. you put it behind the edge. Look where my hand is on the 4th pic down, or where Johns is, and you push down just enough to eliminate the gap between the edge and the wet and dry. :)

The stiffer the foam, the more pressure you need, but you never need much pressure, just enough.
 

THOaken

Native
Jan 21, 2013
1,299
1
30
England(Scottish Native)
Well, good news in a way, folks. Despite my most assuredly rubbish technique, using a combination of both Mears' and Orford's technique I seem to have, surprisingly, improved the edge. This I know because it can slice paper whereas beforehand it couldn't. Either I'm not to bad at sharpening or I'm just lucky because it's the first time I sharpened an axe. I've repaired some of the damage to the blade. A few nicks still exist, but it's surprisingly improved even if the actual edge geometry or technique was a bit off... Colour me shocked.

I appreciate and understand that there's a lot of different methods. I just felt comfortable using two very well known and skilled people's methods, although I'm sure everyone else's works. I'm sure I and anyone else struggling will look back on these threads and laugh one day, eh?

TIJ2FCQ.jpg


It may be incredibly novice, but it actually improved the edge, so it's fine by me for a first attempt.
 

Clouston98

Woodsman & Beekeeper
Aug 19, 2013
4,364
2
26
Cumbria
Interesting, I've seen it done and personally never seen the point myself. Have always used a stone/file free hand on an axe either following the form already there or re-shaping by hand/eye. Could be of use on finer blades or when setting up a new profile I suppose but have never felt the need on an axe.
Sorry if it's not the answer you're looking for THOaken but it's just how I do it and there are probably much better axe sharpeners out there who'll disagree (or it wouldn't be BCUK:lmao:).

What he said!

I use a coarse and fine ceramic stone and a double sided diamond file, both Gransfors ones, no need at all for pen, it's better to learn it free hand in my opinion as when you sharpen it in the woods you won't have a pen. As for the sharpening I find it simple and quick, just touch it up when it needs it.
 

THOaken

Native
Jan 21, 2013
1,299
1
30
England(Scottish Native)
What he said!

I use a coarse and fine ceramic stone and a double sided diamond file, both Gransfors ones, no need at all for pen, it's better to learn it free hand in my opinion as when you sharpen it in the woods you won't have a pen. As for the sharpening I find it simple and quick, just touch it up when it needs it.
How does my attempt look from the pictures? It does the job, it seems. Improved the edge and sharpened a bit.
 

THOaken

Native
Jan 21, 2013
1,299
1
30
England(Scottish Native)
What I think is more surprising is that (with a bit of maneuvering) it can shave arm hairs, not as much as you might image, but I'm just surprised I didn't blunt the axe even more. :eek:
 
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