Secrets of the hand drill - revealed

[Jeff Wagner]

Would anyone be interested in learning how to make fire by hand drill using materials from your local lumber supply? I recall that JC has already mastered the hand drill with a native Australian spindle. You may be very surprised to find how easy this method can be when using the right materials. That feeling of satisfaction that comes from making fire without matches grows in initensity with the more primitive methods.The more primitive the set up and the fewer the components used, the greater the thrill. My best time to coal formation by hand drill so far is 12 seconds - not a world record, but a great sense of accomplishment none the less. I think I can help you do the same.

 

[Stuart]

I am sure many people on here including myself would be very intrested, tell us more

 

[Justin Time]

I'm up for it!

 

[Ogri the trog]

Oh go on then.

Jeff, having recently, ahem mastered! the fire piston (can I really say that here without being taken too seriously), my appetite has been whetted for this type of thing

Ogri the trog

 

[Daniel]

I'm interested, sure!!

 

[jim_w]

You can certainly count me in! Maybe a more primitive method might suit my primitive^H^H^H^H^H^H^H basic skills! ;-P

 

[Ed]

It would be fantastic if you could post a little tutorial here

Ed

 

[Jeff Wagner]

I will make no claims of expertise, however I have managed to succeed about 75 times and I can share my observations and methods. First off, as with the bow drill, wood selection is critical and perhaps even more so. I find performance variations even among spindles of the same wood type, so when you find one that works well, hang on to it.

Low density,straightness and stiffness appear to be the most important qualities. A shaft that wobbles or is too flexible will reduce the amount of downward force one is able to apply.

More in a bit as I need to take some photos for explanation purposes. In the mean time, please let me know if you have cedar boards available at your local lumber supply house.

 

[bushman762]

After having spent a FULL day at this crack...from beginning to end...and nothing only burnt dust to show for it...I sure would like to know were I went wrong.

By the way, the burnt dust...I could never in my numerous attempts get it to smoulder.

Best Regards,

 

[Ogri the trog]

Come off it Jeff,
You claim to be no expert yet have succeeded 75 times. I recon if you've done it once you're at the point of offering advice, 75 times and you can consider yourself the universe guru.

Did you use the arrow shaft on the left of your photo, I have plenty of Port Orford Cedar shafts from arrows, don't yet know about the boards though.

Thanks so far

Ogri the trog

 

[Jeff Wagner]

The arrow is a hand milled shaft of white ash and while it provided a ready made spindle, the working portion that made the coal is on the other end of the detachable socket.

My next recommendation is to not attempt to make a coal at first at all. Simply practice drilling holes for a few days. Short practice sessions which condition the hands and muscles. When you can manage 7 passes down the spindle without raising blisters you're ready for a go. But I am getting ahead of myself. I have not yet covered the spindle making.

First - go buy a small cedar board, a 3/8 inch ramin dowel about 30 inches long and a 1 inch ramin dowel. Total investment here should be about $5.

Split an edge from the cedar board so as to make a square - if the board is 3/4 inch thick spilt it 3/4 inch from the edge. Now take your knife and whittle that square into a round shaft about 3/8 inch in diameter and about 2 inches long. Cut a 2 inch piece from the larger dowel and drill it through its length with a 3/8 inch bit. This will become your socket. Insert the smaller ramin dowel in one end of the socket and the cedar plug you just whittled into the other end. You now have a fire spindle. Now take the cedar board and split it length wise so as to make a hearth board about 3/8 inch thick. You now have all the pieces you need to make a coal by hand drill.

More to follow - I'm in the midst of hanging a new door....

 

[Jeff Wagner]

That opening frown above was unintentional - not sure how that got there.

I have found that with good materials I can expect to see smoke during the first pass down the spin. I have also noticed that I can tell a good spindle and hearth set by the way they feel and sound when pressed against each other and the spindle twisted back and forth a few times. A good set will bind and sqeak. Knowing this saves a good deal of time and wasted effort breaking in a combination that wont work well.

I have not tried the following on hoof fungus however it is not terrbly difficult to get a coal to form in tinder fungus. Please note that the usuual notch is not necessary in fungus. The coal forms right in the drill hole.

 

[Cypher2001]

Forgive me, I am new here but I'm very interested in the process your are using to completing the setup. I guess your description isnt painting the picture I need.

Is it possible to take step by step pictures of the process? Any additional help you can give would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Jeff Wagner]

What is it you wish to see? The spindle made from store bought parts?

 

[maverick]

I cannot answer for Cypher200, but I think that is what we all want to see, a picture tutorial from construction through to flame.
anyone else agree?

 

[Buckshot]

Exactly, from intial purchase onwards would be great

Cheers

Mark

 

[weekend_warrior]

I cannot answer for Cypher200, but I think that is what we all want to see, a picture tutorial from construction through to flame.
anyone else agree?

Aye! *hand raised*

 

[Jeff Wagner]

Step1- Split out the square from the cedar board.

Step2 - Split off the corners to make a rough octagon.

Step 3 - Split the piece that will become the hearthboard to approximately 3/8 inches thickness.

 

[Hoodoo]

Great stuff Jeff! I'm gonna give this setup a try. I'm curious though about how well the upper and lower shaft fit in the joint. Do they have a tendency to slip in the joining piece? Do you glue the upper shaft in or just depend on a friction fit?

 

[Jeff Wagner]

....any questions so far please raise a hand...

Step 4 - using your knife whittle the octagon to make a round plug about 10mm in diameter. I like to taper the end that will be inserted into to the collar.

Step 5 - I have taken a small liberty here as I dont have any ramin dowels available at the moment. I have therefore used a fancier collar / spindle combination that was already on hand - but I think you will grasp the idea.

Step 6 - form a depression in the hearth board. I like to use a flint chip for this.

Step 7 - Make your initial burn-in as you would with a bow drill.