Scratchy Knife

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dangerpie

Member
Dec 5, 2008
44
0
37
Thame, Oxfordshire
Hi all!

I've been sharpening away (following the wonderful 5 pound kit tutorial), but I can't seem to get the blade right. Even though it is quite shiny from going through the stages from the different grits, it's certainly not scratch free; the bevel is covered in fine scratches.

Am I rushing through one of the stages? I've been going on 600 grit for a very long time but it doesnt seem to improve, I wonder if I have done some of the lower grits more hastily or something? Or should I also work with some finer grits also?

Cheers!
Pete :)
 

Diligence

Forager
Sep 15, 2008
121
0
Calgary, Canada
I haven't read the tutorial you mention, but when I polish blades, I be sure to use different stroke directions with different grades....if you find you still have scratches when moving to a finer grit - go back up one coarser grit and do it again....work that elbow grease! laugh.

D
 

stanley lake

Forager
May 15, 2007
202
0
68
NORTH EAST
:D Hi Pete what u using with your different grit rubbing down paper thin oil will help the proses go back a couple off different grades if the scratches or deep Ital take a while to remove them i find a very fine small oil stone with fine oil dose the trick them Finnish with fine rubbing down paper electric machines help as well :D
stanley
 

novembeRain

Nomad
Sep 23, 2008
365
3
41
lincoln
I'll second that, even water will do but be sure to dry and oil the blade when you're done.

I only use an old oil stone, it doesn't come to a mirror finish but certainly puts a good edge on the blade, I'd suggest the mirror finish is more cosmetic than anything, yes it'll give a more perfect edge but I wouldn't say it's nessesary.

As a tip though, work from hilt to tip with one grade - tip to hilt with the next and so on, don't change to the next grade until you've removed the scratches from the last and consider a finer paper if you're after that mirror finish - 1200 grit at a guess. But you'll find the bigger the jump in grade, the longer it'll take to remove scratches from the last.
 
M

moccasintracks

Guest
I have found that a cloth buffing wheel with a very fine polishing rouge like clove compound works to put a mirror on my blades if I want to take the time to get there.

I would say allow about four times as long per grit as what you think you should and the results work better. That is my rule of thumb.

For example If I seem to be happy with a particular grit after 30 minutes of effort I will often go ahead with that grit and oil for two hours before moving to the next finest grit.

For me sharpening my blades is a kind of meditation. Either I stay focused on what I'm doing or I get cut.

Helps me relax, for an impatient person it would be torture. Best to go all electric in that case and buff with wheels and compound.
Just my way, not the best, but best I have figured out.

Jim
 

stanley lake

Forager
May 15, 2007
202
0
68
NORTH EAST
your right skogkniv the only why to get a polished finish is to use a selection of cutting pasts good buffing wheel and patents:thinkerg:
 

Draven

Native
Jul 8, 2006
1,530
6
34
Scotland
it's certainly not scratch free; the bevel is covered in fine scratches.

From this, I take it we can assume that you do want a mirror polish? Just thought I'd check, since it wasn't really mentioned directly.

Anyhoo, why do you want a mirror polish if I may ask? While it will give a finer edge on minute scale, you'll probably find a lot more flaws just from hand sharpening if you look that closely. If the knife is of a good steel, hardened properly and has good geometry, I doubt you'll see a huge difference in cutting if you have a mirror polish, compared to, say, 600 or 800 grit, unless it's a fine woodcarving knife or you're using it to operate on people. It can, of course, look lovely depending on the rest of the blade (I think that mirror polished convex bevels look great on forge finished knives) and if it's aesthetic, then don't bother reading on, as I can't advise you on how to get a mirror polish, only having bothered once, and quickly abandoning it when I realised that if I wanted to do it every time I sharpen my knives I wouldn't have any free time to use them :p

The longest I ever sharpen a knife for is about half an hour - usually, though, it's closer to about five seconds ;) I use a Mora with a primary bevel angle of about 16-17°, and a microbevel of about 35° (just guessing).
Most of the time, my sharpening consists of two swipes on either side of the blade, using a piece of wet-or-dry (600 grit, though it's worn down quite a bit) sitting on a mousemat to give a very slight convex, sharpening only the secondary bevel.
When the bevel gets too wide or too thick, I spend a few minutes on a coarse diamond sharpener (100-and-something grit IIRC) glued to a bit of wood (it had a plastic backing which peeled away), followed by a few minutes on the fine side of a stone I picked up for £1.50 which I soak in water while using the diamond sharpener. I sometimes remove all the scratches from the diamond sharpener, but not generally, I don't find they make a great difference, it's just to give a generally smoother feel. For reference, the soaked stone gives a finish akin to something between 600 and 800 grit sandpaper. It's absolute rubbish when used dry. After using the stone, a couple strokes on the sandpaper again and that does me.

I do think that it makes a noticeable difference in efficieny when comparing, say, 120 grit to 600. But it seems the difference becomes logarithmically less noticeable as you go up the grits - to me, at least. I'm not trying to criticise, or to come off like I think I'm the last word in knife sharpening - but if you're only trying to get a mirror polish because you think that's how it "should" look, or because you think you'll get a massive difference in efficiency, I really wouldn't bother.

All the best, and best of luck getting the finish that suits you! Hope this helped somewhat
Pete
 

dangerpie

Member
Dec 5, 2008
44
0
37
Thame, Oxfordshire
Thanks for your informative replies everyone! I think I just assumed that it should have a mirrored finish as an indicator that it has been sharpened sufficiently. Thanks for clearing up that that isn't the case :) If it's just a cosmetic thing, and a 600 grit is as high as fine as I need to go to get a sharp enough edge then i'll skip the cosmetic part!

Thanks for your advice!

Pete :)
 

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