At one time I used citric acid to clean up brass stoves then moved on to vinegar which does the same job. I don't clean stoves these days, just let the natural patina take hold.
removing paint and rust?
- Thread starter Man of Tanith
- Start date
Vinegar? Standard malt?
And does it have to be top brand cola or can I use own brand cheap as chips stuff?
And does it have to be top brand cola or can I use own brand cheap as chips stuff?
It can be but the cheaper cider vinegar will work just as well and comes in larger bottles (over here anyway)
Yeah, I've done that. Electrolysis dip tank.
Works a treat on steel/iron. No stainless or chrome though, makes nasty stuff in the dip tank if you do.
Takes a while but I wasn't making any effort while it was working.
Biker
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Define "nasty stuff" please.
Also I'm just wondering about the time limit on this process. Say for example I made this dip tank, rigged up the battery charger and left it to cook, then for some bizarre reason I clean forgot about this was on the go and then 6 days later remembered. What could I expect to find? What I'm asking is will this process once the rust has gone, continue to remove the steel from the tool to the other metal item.
Obvioulsy what I don't want to happen is the tool be eaten away to nothing.
woodspirits
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
ive bought a few axe heads, billhooks and slashers back to life with a selection of flap wheels and or a soak in (bulk Costco) malt vinegar for a few days. works well without leaving it looking shiny new. 
Biker
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Just found an interesting comment at the bottom of this video on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQNvhUYqCkw
It said: It is a nice method for non critical parts. Because during that process the metal parts get "hydrogen hardened". Means the hydrogen produced by the electrolysis process goes into the upper layers of the metal parts and makes them extreme hard. (Similar to nitrogen hardening). So never use that method on safety critical parts, they will brake.
Anyone care to shed any light on this, especially on the long term effects of blades?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQNvhUYqCkw
It said: It is a nice method for non critical parts. Because during that process the metal parts get "hydrogen hardened". Means the hydrogen produced by the electrolysis process goes into the upper layers of the metal parts and makes them extreme hard. (Similar to nitrogen hardening). So never use that method on safety critical parts, they will brake.
Anyone care to shed any light on this, especially on the long term effects of blades?
Last time I purchased a cheap axe that was painted, I sprayed some CRC carburetor cleaner on it, and could wipe the paint of 10 seconds later with a piece of cloth....all of it came straight off, not a trace of it left.
Would not surprice me if it takes care of some of the rust too. If not try to wipe it with vinegar. But give it a good clean in water after. Then oil it.
Would not surprice me if it takes care of some of the rust too. If not try to wipe it with vinegar. But give it a good clean in water after. Then oil it.
Nasty stuff being Hexavalent Chromium. That's from people using stainless steel as the sacrificial anode. I just used re-bar and replace it when it rusts away.
It won't corrode the part you are cleaning because that's the cathode and it doesn't attract oxygen like the anode does.
More info on the process HERE.
Intelligent chargers are all very well and good for charging bike batteries but for this you're better off with a really old and quite stupid charger that doesn't think about what its doing and slow down the current.
Don't think I've heard of that but its possibly hydrogen embrittlement, I've only used it on cast items so far.
For removing rust and paint I keep a one inch wide wire wheel on the right side of my bench grinder, it came with a free extension piece and guard
http://www.axminster.co.uk/creusen-creusen-extension-prod21060/
but I have it rigged up with no stone on that side as it didn't feel safe with that rushing past your knuckles as you concentrated on the wire wheel.
works great anyway.
its very easy to unbolt the wire wheel nd slp on a wide buffing wheel for polishing out any scratches.
atb
tom
http://www.axminster.co.uk/creusen-creusen-extension-prod21060/
but I have it rigged up with no stone on that side as it didn't feel safe with that rushing past your knuckles as you concentrated on the wire wheel.
works great anyway.
its very easy to unbolt the wire wheel nd slp on a wide buffing wheel for polishing out any scratches.
atb
tom
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