Recycling last year's Xmas Tree

spader

Native
Dec 19, 2009
1,325
91
Scotland
Hi All

The Xmas tree has been lying in the back garden since early January this year soaked in rain and getting dried by occasional Sun.
This late afternoon I cut off one of the branch and whittled it into the handle for my 6 lb vintage Axe head lying in the corner of the shed for months desperately waiting for a handle and crying out for action.

In the evening I was able to attach it to the axe head, and wedged with a couple of long screws. It seems solid. I need further smoothen the handle with rasp and sand paper over the weekend.

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Will process some firewoods with it afterwards, and see how Xmas tree branch holds up for axe handle, but it was quite hard wood to whittle.
Good things was it costed me nothing, just some labour and time, and was a good practical lesson how to make axe handle.
 
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Draven

Native
Jul 8, 2006
1,530
6
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Scotland
Please, be careful. Pine is NOT rated for axe use - it has lots of great uses, but that isn't one of them. Particularly on such a heavy head. Hickory, ash and oak are favored traditional axe handle materials and even they break. It might be possible to find old slow-growth of some pine varieties that's worthwhile but I still wouldn't risk it when hickory, ash and oak are so plentiful.
 

Everything Mac

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 30, 2009
3,131
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Scotland
Sorry Spader but I'm going to be that guy.

Whilst I'm sure it was fun, the axe is a danger to you. As pointed out pine is not a good wood for handles at the best of times and I can see a few knots in the wood.
That handle WILL break, it's just a matter of when.

Just to rub salt in the wound, you've got the head on upside down.

Cheap hickory handles can be found online easily enough.

All the best
Andy
 

Stew

Bushcrafter through and through
Nov 29, 2003
6,565
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Aylesbury
stewartjlight-knives.com
There's a reason you don't see axe handles made from pine!

Take it as a good experience on fitting and shaping a handle but I would suggest now removing it before you get hurt when chopping.
 

spader

Native
Dec 19, 2009
1,325
91
Scotland
Thank you all for your advices. I am glad that I have not bought a new handle just to attach it to the wrong way into the head. ;D
In desperate attempt to fit the handle into the head, I just must have fitted into the way it fitted better :D

I was wondering before Pine trees are hard wood, as hard as any thing, but how come we never see pine tree axe handles? - see the pine tree mallet next to the axe? It has been in use in most heavy way for last six months, and it did not break. But the axe could be different, as the handle is longer and thinner, I can see your points. Plus maybe the inherent characteristic of the pine trees that not suit for tool handles.

Well I will wear tree felling boots, when I test the axe, and be extremely careful, but I will see how it performs. If and when it breaks, I will upload the photos of the event :D
I will not bother sanding the handle though :D
 
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spader

Native
Dec 19, 2009
1,325
91
Scotland
This afternoon after lunch, I put on my metal boots on and heavy leather work gloves, and got the old axe out from the shed, and did some testing.
After quartering an 8 inch tree log, it was still solid and in one piece no sign of breakage at all. My favorite work axe is the old Sandvik 4 lber, but 6lb was awesome, it split 8 inch tree logs in a couple of swings. The weight was doing most work.

I will keep using it until it breaks, and then will buy a hikory or oak handle for it making sure it goes proper way this time :D. When it will break, would be interesting to see. cheers.


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Everything Mac

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Nov 30, 2009
3,131
96
37
Scotland
Congratulations, you've split a short section of straight grained log that could have been just as easily split with a sharp pencil...

Try that axe out on something with a knot or two or even that forked section you have in the pictures.

Pine is is considered a soft wood. As stated by several members, pine is not considered a good material for handles. The handle will break.
If you want to risk it and get injured in the process that's fine by me, but don't say you weren't warned.


Andy
 

spader

Native
Dec 19, 2009
1,325
91
Scotland
Straight grained logs of that sizes are not that easy to split. Try to split them with any big knife. Only axe will split them with ease, and if smaller axes used, they would struggle needing many swings.

I would never try to split large logs of size 15 - 20 inches like one in the photos with axes. They are extremely heavy, rock hard as stones and used for axe boards, and if I were to split them maybe would use chainsaws or crosscut saws.

I have used pines for other tool handles and mallets in the past, and they were durable. I am fully aware maybe they are not suitable for axe handles, but so far it seems holding up ok.
I noticed the screw wedges are not good, and will take them out, and make wooden wedge, further strengthen and see how it goes.

I appreciate your warnings, but will manage ok handling with extreme care. Any tool can be dangerous if not used with care and attention I suppose.
And any wooden axe handle can also break be it hickory or oak, if abused or misused.
 
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spader

Native
Dec 19, 2009
1,325
91
Scotland
Yup, thanks. Those straight grained logs of 6 - 8 inchers are largest I get for my wood burning stoves in the shed. Broke a few large knives and battons trying to split them before getting axes :)
 

spader

Native
Dec 19, 2009
1,325
91
Scotland
Put the handle right way, put in a wooden wedge whittled out of scrap wood, then hammered in a metal wedge made of old lawn mower blade piece. Feels a lot more solid. Did some more splitting with the axe, and works great.

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Having tried to recycle what is there around me, DIYed to get it to work, and making use of it to do the job was a great fun and learning opportunity. :D
 
Jul 30, 2012
3,570
224
westmidlands
It is in the round, which is a lot more than can be said for most handles you see in the shops, ie the round grain running the length of the wood. Only thing with pine is as it ages or wears, with it being a soft wood, but if the grain is small enough it can be very good. Some of the ikea pine has huge grain, and then some has such tight grain I wish I could get some. There is a story on the Internet of a man who handled a posting maul mallet with a round of hornbeam that far outlasted the hickory one shop bought, using the in the round philosophy.
 

spader

Native
Dec 19, 2009
1,325
91
Scotland
Yup, great info about the round handle. I feel it is more like a large hammer than axe when swinging. It seems very effective in splitting. I do not have to swing so many times to split 8 inch logs, just once or twice and it is done.

In survival situation, I suppose one has to make use of whatever there is to get the job done, and that was the main aim of this trial. :D When it breaks eventually, I will get an oak wood, and do exactly same way.
 
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Harvestman

Bushcrafter through and through
May 11, 2007
8,656
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Pontypool, Wales, Uk
If you do decide to rehandle it, and want a traditional UK handle wood, go for ash. It will look similar to the current version, is a strong hardwood with more flex than oak (easier on the hands), is cheap, abundant, and almost as good as hickory. It was what everyone in this country used before hickory was available.
 

spader

Native
Dec 19, 2009
1,325
91
Scotland
If you do decide to rehandle it, and want a traditional UK handle wood, go for ash. It will look similar to the current version, is a strong hardwood with more flex than oak (easier on the hands), is cheap, abundant, and almost as good as hickory. It was what everyone in this country used before hickory was available.

A great advice. Thank you Harvestman.
 
Jul 30, 2012
3,570
224
westmidlands
Hornbeam is a far cry from Pine..........I wouldn't be doing this.

Hornbeam is apparently harder than oak which I found suprising. As for the pine it's been cut six months so I would say it's at the sweet spot between green and dried, not too flexible and soft, but not completely dry.

http://axeconnected.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/weak-handles-revisited.html?m=1
The stuff about the grain is at the bottom of the article in the comments.

I woudn't trust it if it where still wet, as the shrinage increases, you may wish to chop in an isolated place.
 
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Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
44
Britannia!
If you need the head tarting up, re profiling, sharpening etc then cover the postage and send it my way mate, I'll gladly hep out. :)

Pine's good for a few things but not for high impact handles, if I were you I'd fork out the £10 or less and buy a premade one and get it on good and proper so it's safe to use.

If you need any help or advice on tidying the head up or anything, just drop me a PM.

Peace! :)
 

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