I have a similar machine, different make, I bought mine second hand and had to set it up properly.
Firstly you need to get the two pulleys correctly aligned so the saw band runs true on both top and bottom wheels.
Then adjust the blade guides so that they only have a small gap and do not touch the teeth of the saw band.
Then adjust the pressure wheel to just clear of the rear of the saw band.
You need to tension the saw band by adjusting the height of the top wheel, and you should not leave the saw in tension when not in use.
After that you should be good to go.
One thing to bear in mind is you will need several blades, a narrow one will allow tight radii to be cut, a wide one is good for straight cutting.
One of the big uses of the band saw is free hand cutting curved items etc and here you tend not to need push sticks as there is usually plenty of wood to hold away from the blade.
Push sticks come in when you want to use the straight fence and need to push the timber past the blade.
Another point is the throat on the table where the blade passes through, ideally you want this as small as possible as wide gaps here can be dangerous as small offcuts can get drawn into it by the moving blade.
If I have any delicate cutting to do I use a false table, just a piece of thin plywood, simply push it through the blade and back it off a couple of mm for clearance.
This results in absolutely minimum clearance below the blade and very small pieces can be cut away safely.
I'm sure you will enjoy using the bandsaw, I certainly do when a job calls for it.
Oh and never force wood into the blade, let the saw cut at it's own speed, if you are cutting thick timber it will be slow, thin timber is much quicker.
Forcing the cut is one way to introduce blade wander, the other is an incorrect set up.