Re-handled SwissArmy Knife

[edispilff]

Just happened to be digging through my car and found a SAK in between the back seats! The handle had a crack in it, but it was in perfect working condition!.. So, with the better part of the day on my side, creativity reared its head like a lipizzaner and decided to throw a new handle on that critter.

Materials Used:

• Pittards Leather Scraps
• 2-ton Epoxy mix
• Small flat tool file
• Glow Powder
• Leather punch

The glow powder (12 hour glow time with 10 second sun charge) was mixed with epoxy and applied after the 2 hour handle set. Not only is the handle more comfortable, but it's also easier to find in the dark!

As far as i can tell, this is the first time this has been done this way... Thanks for checkin' it out and hope this inspires a constructive process on a rainy day.

 

[Singeblister]

You did a real fine job on that looks great nice contrast going on with the glow spots and the leather , what did you do to get the pattern on the leather or did it come like that ?

 

[edispilff]

Thank You for the compliment!

The leather was pebble patterned forehand. There are several saddle makers with whom i've befriended over the years. They wet stap the pattern in a press. Makes for a better seat material because the friction actually increases the comfort for long rides (yeah, during the summer i train and condition polish arabians for endurance competitions)...

The leather is also a little thinner than the stock hanles so, it's nearly impossible to not punch all the way through.

Some things discovered along the way which may help if anyone else decides to rehandle SAKs similarly:
- File the rivets and pivots (brass) flat to the liners. They have a tendancy to be slightly off center and will not be level when eopxying the leather on the handles.
- Punch the holes for each side individually instead of stacked. Unless you've got a high priced precision punch, they will not be perfect.
- Cut the leather larger than the knife, punch the holes, and then use a razor to trim around the liners. This will give you room for mistake in the event your holes are not perfectly aligned.
- Score the liners with a file tip before epoxying. This will improve the adhesion.
- Use a soldering iron to burnish the edges. They are cheap, and can be used for burning holes for leather stitching for other sewing projects.

Glow pigemtns are really neat!... Not sure where you could order them in the UK, but they are definately a beacon when trying to find stuff at night.

Gonna do a little searchin g for more ideas on rehandling these little guys...

 

[TheGreenMan]

I like that a lot, not seen leather used for a handle in that way before.

Kind regards,
Paul.

 

[Tengu]

I saw leather scales on a putty knife once. Im surprised it has not been used more

 

[Bisamratte]

now I'm loving that

 

[Dingo]

edispilff

where did you source the glow pigments?

Adam.

 

[Jared]

I think MUTR do small quantities of GID pigment. I _think_ anyone can order from there.

http://www.mutr.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=570

They also have thermochromatic pigments, and would like to see a SAK handled with that. Changes colour whilst you hold it.

 

[TheGreenMan]

...Gonna do a little searchin g for more ideas on rehandling these little guys...

There's something of a 'Master Class' going on here:
http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54615

Best regards,
Paul.

 

[edispilff]

Thanks guys.. been really concentrating on working with leather handles.. so far the easiest way is affixing them with epoxy.. but am going to completely drill out the existing rivets from the knife body and then put in new ones so they hold the handle in place better. Epoxy is alright for looks, but function may alter with use in the future.

The source for glow pigments is http://www.glowinc.com I have tried a few different companies and their product seems to be the best. A word of experienced advice: The powders mix the best with epoxy at about 1.5 pigment : 2 parts epoxy. Any more and it gets a little sand like, any less and the epoxy has dark/light spots with thin applications... Aaaaaandddd the sands are a lot cheaper to purchase and really mix well with crushed stone for ornamentation. Am working on a turquoise inlay mixed with the blue sand.. and damn if it isn't the neatest thing going.. blends in just like a natural medium and at night it gives the effect of glowing turquoise.. very cool looking!.
The brightest colors are in order of lumins are Green:Teal:Blue and then the rest are pretty much the same. Honestly, stick with the greens and blues and you'll have a great finished product.. the other colors look neat, but they are very dim compared.

The next step is producing knives that have adaptive camoflauge. This has proven tricky.. but that will be another thread for later (as soon as i work out all the bugs)

And yes, greenman... saw that there are a couple of chaps who are making "damascus micarta".. this stuff looks amazing!.. will try to create a couple of chunks (never thought of it before).. am thinking the best way will be to use a batik color style for the layers...

So are we going to have an influx of crazy glowing knives now?... May the force be with you