Old leather advice possibly old drive belts

[Robbo]

I've just been given two rolls of what appears to be old leather drive belts, their 3-4 inches wide and the leather is about 1/4-3/8inch thick, and the rolls are about a foot and a half across.

The belts are made up of lengths skive jointed together and its water damaged and mouldy in places.

Any ideas what I could us it for ? And would it be best to cut off the damaged/mouldy parts or can they be restored.

The leather is very stiff (probably do to the thickness) how can I soften it up?

Finally would my electric plane be any use at thinning pieces down ?

Andy

 

[Wayland]

The last stuff I was given like that I used to sole shoes with.

It was a good thickness but difficult to stick because of all the oil in it.

 

[g4ghb]

how long are they? - they would work for strops i would expect

as for using your plainer i've no idea....it may work but my suspision is it would chew it up rotten

 

[Robbo]

Would it be any use for knife/axe sheaths ?

And how do I store it as my missus is complaining about the mouldy leather smell.

Andy

 

[Robbo]

No idea how long, but rolled up their 15 or so inches in diameter, so a good few meters worth, but how long the glued up sections are I dont know.

Andy

 

[g4ghb]

Would it be any use for knife/axe sheaths ?

And how do I store it as my missus is complaining about the mouldy leather smell.

Andy

possibly and anywhere where she cant smell it! - my workshop for instance

 

[rancid badger]

Would it be any use for knife/axe sheaths ?

And how do I store it as my missus is complaining about the mouldy leather smell.

Andy

Sounds a bit thick to be used for sheaths etc although theres no reason not to experiment.
making strops might be a goer, depends on whether there is any resin or glue impregnated in the leather itself.

personally, I wouldn't fancy setting to with a planer unless it was classed as "expendable"
There may be folk on here who would give it a shot but not me!

Neetsfoot oil will soften the leather and probably stop it stinking but initially I'd put the belting somewhere dry and cool.

A picture or two might be a good idea for assessing potential usability:bluThinki (is that a word?)

cheers
R.B.

 

[rancid badger]

yet another double post!!
is it me or the site or the machine or the matrix?

 

[Robbo]

Its the Matrix pick the red pill. I'll try and grab a Pic

Andy

 

[SOAR]

Sounds like interesting stuff, found this if its any good for cleaning the mould.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2146499_stop-mold-mildew-tack-room.html

 

[Singeblister]

Sounds like good stuff for a strop to me

 

[Eric_Methven]

They'd be good for soling leather, strops, period leather jewellery boxes or (remembering back to when I was at school) straps for chastising naughty children. You could also make shoulder armour and arm guards from them.

Eric

 

[Mike Ameling]

You do need to check those belts carefully. Some old "drive belts" were also made up from cloth/cord and various rubber compounds. And some were all leather. I've played around a bit with some for using with old steam engines and those single-cylindar gas engines to drive threshing machines, grain grinders, and power triphammers. The old "fabric" ones work better because they tend not to fall apart as those old leather ones - unless those leather belts were well maintained.

Also check them carefully for metal staples and rivets. They were a common method of joining/fastening drive belts together.

With all the old oil in the leather, it will probably gunk up a planer fast. But you could thin down small pieces with a rasp or an electric angle grinder with a sanding wheel/disk on it. But getting a consistant thickness would be troublesome.

That thickness is a bit much for most knife sheaths, but could still be made to work. But it would work well for knife handles. You could use pieces as slabs on each side of your knife handle. Or cut cut out disks a little larger than the diameter of the handle you want, drill/punch a hole through the center, and "stack" them up on the round hidden tang of your knife blade. Then tighten up the buttcap. Now rasp/grind/sand down the outside till you get the shape handle you want. A lot of recent "hunting" knives have stacked leather handles. They do provide a good grip.

Just some options. I know the feeling of ... needing to save them. Been there, done that. But sometimes it takes a while to find the "right" use.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands

 

[Ogri the trog]

I've come across something very similar,
two, very thick, about 6 - 7mm, four inches wide and eight foot long belts. They were spares for a machine that the company no longer owns, so unused. I'm thinking of making a huge belt for me, being a chunky monkey and some shoulder straps for some bags I've knocked up. As for the rest of it, there's bound to be a project come up just after I get rid of it - so I'll hang on to it for a bit!

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[Mike Ameling]

Yes, that heavy leather can make good straps - although fairly thick. An obvious use would be handles for a wood box/trunk. You need extra thick leather for that.

Also cut strips from it and glue/tack them as "runners" under your wood box. This helps keep your wood box from scratching wood floors - or sliding about too easily. Just make sure any tacks are driven in deep, coutersunk, or up around the ends. But they might draw moisture if set on the ground. There's always ... trade-offs.

If you carefully cut and bevel the edges, you can glue/stitch up nice smaller containers - boxes or cylindars. Just use that stiff/thick leather like you were making your container out of wood slats. They will stand up pretty well to protect what is inside, but also have a little flex/give.

Just a few more thoughts to consider.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands

 

[Robbo]

Pics

Iooks like its leather, certainly smells like it anyway, joins look like skived (you can just see the dark line of one above) and glued no sign of rivets.

Width is 75mm, thickness is 7mm, length is anyones guess atm

Lots of mould on one roll, looks like some water damage on both, can say how old or how they were stored.

Andy

 

[Robbo]

Anyone got any tips on how best to clean the mould off ?

Also which is the best soide for a strop the rough or the smooth.

Andy

 

[rancid badger]

Anyone got any tips on how best to clean the mould off ?

Also which is the best soide for a strop the rough or the smooth.

Andy

Use the flesh side(rough) Andy.

I think that stuff actually looks pretty much ok to me, the mould is an issue I cant really advise on however! ( please note: I'll tackle almost anything in the interest of "tinkering" )
What about phoning Le Prevo?
Failing that, I'll ask Ben or Jes next time I'm in there

My strategy with it; would be to cut off the badly mildewed bit and keep it away from the rest for now. Cut a few small "test pieces" from the manky stuff and experiment with cleaning methods.
I'd start by just washing it with cold water and maybe a nail brush. let it dry and then try oiling it.
As I say, I'll ask next time I'm in but keep us up to date if you decide to have a go at it.

I wouldn't worry too much about the water marking; if your going to dye it, especially darker shades, it may even add to the beauty of the finished item.

I think it would make some serious belt straps, maybe 1 1/2 -2 inches wide?
Oh buxxer! I'm getting carried away again here
lets just say I think you've got some cracking material to experiment with there!

best of luck and enjoy
R.B.

 

[Eric_Methven]

You can clear up the mould and mildew with a weak solution of household bleach. Dab it on, wipe it off. Then do the same with Fairy Liquid.

Eric