Oils for spoons

[wolf man]

I'm in the process of finishing my first spoon made from Sweet Chestnut. I'm planning on oiling it to bring out the grain, but which oil do i use? Is boiled Linseed OK? Can it be used for a spoon or is their a better option? Is it poisonous?

Also got my new axe today (Wetterling Long Hunting Axe) but i don't like the varnish on it, so am planning on taking this off and will oil it with Linseed. Now, i've been told to let it stand in oil for a week to draw the oil into the wood, is that right, sounds dubious to me.
Advice would be appreciated
Cheers
Wolf Man

 

[leon-1]

Tung oil is good for anything that involves food (non toxic and will bring out the grain).

Soaking things in oil is quite normal and a week probably wouldn't harm the haft of an axe, just remember to allow it to drain fully and leave it for a while before using it. You may have to wipe it down periodically as the excess drains from it.

 

[falcon]

For the axe, when using linseed oil on walking sticks it is usual to apply several coats, lightly sanding with steel wool between coats after each coat dries. You're not looking for the decorative effect with an axe and the last time I replaced a helve I think I put 3 coats on though more will do no harm at all.

 

[wolf man]

cheers guys

is it necessary to remove the head of the axe or can i oil as planned with it still attached, don't really want to remove the helve from a new axe.

Wolf Man

 

[leon-1]

Oil with it on, you won't do any damage to it

 

[Jared]

Yeah, when I used to rehandle axes, used a piece of drain pipe filled with linseed, and left the axe handle in there for atleast a week.

 

[Cyclingrelf]

I use Walnut oil on my spoons. Edible. Linseed is poisonous.

 

[led]

Linseed is poisonous.

Strictly speaking, it's not poisonous at all, but you don't want to be using Boiled Linseed oil, as that usually contains solvents etc which are toxic, and isn't simply linseed oil that has been boiled.

 

[wolf man]

So for the axe, is normal linseed oil or boiled linseed oil best?

 

[Stew]

I use Walnut oil on my spoons.

Just be careful of giving it to someone with a nut allergy...

 

[leon-1]

So for the axe, is normal linseed oil or boiled linseed oil best?

To be honest there will be little difference between raw linseed and boiled in the end result, it sounds a bit of a cop out, but either will do.

 

[led]

...either will do, but the boiled linseed will dry faster.

 

[jason01]

If youre concerned about additives in the Linseed oil supplied by diy sheds you can always get Flaxseed oil from health food shops which is intended for consumption and is exactly the same thing but a bit pricey. I suspect that the amount of oil consumed from an oiled spoon is not enough to worry about anyway though.

Definately no harm in soaking them for as long as youve got the patience I often fry spoons in very hot linseed oil to get good penetration and then leave em soaking in oil at ambient temp for a week or two, it does take a good 12 months for the linseed oil to harden enough to begin to provide a really tough beautiful finish but its worth it!

 

[Laurence Dell]

After you have scraped off the old finish soak with hot water to raise the grain dry it off and sand down the helve in between soaking. Do this several times and then apply the linseed oil.
If you mix boiled Linseed oil with turpentine and brush it onto the axe handle it will soak in deeper.
Then the rest is the same as falcon described.

falcon
For the axe, when using linseed oil on walking sticks it is usual to apply several coats, lightly sanding with steel wool between coats after each coat dries. You're not looking for the decorative effect with an axe and the last time I replaced a helve I think I put 3 coats on though more will do no harm at all.

That was how we were shown to do it with our Gransfors SFA's on a Woodlore course.
I can't remember what proportions it should be mixed Anyone?

 

[risby]

After you have scraped off the old finish soak with hot water to raise the grain dry it off and sand down the helve in between soaking. Do this several times and then apply the linseed oil.
If you mix boiled Linseed oil with turpentine and brush it onto the axe handle it will soak in deeper.
Then the rest is the same as falcon described.


That was how we were shown to do it with our Gransfors SFA's on a Woodlore course.
I can't remember what proportions it should be mixed Anyone?

Hi Laurence, I'm pretty sure it was 10% turpentine.

 

[bilko]

Am i right in saying that Linseed oil can self combust when left on a reag so sispose of rag carefully?
Ray said it on one of his dvds but i cant remember which. Of course i may be talking out of my rear end

 

[risby]

Am i right in saying that Linseed oil can self combust when left on a reag so sispose of rag carefully?
Ray said it on one of his dvds but i cant remember which. Of course i may be talking out of my rear end

Well, I've got a tin of Danish Oil and a bottle of Teak Oil both of which have a warning on them about used rags self igniting so wash them well with soapy water before disposal.

 

[twelveboar]

I use olive oil on spoons, seems to work ok, and is definately safe for food use

 

[baz979]

so far iv only used sun flower oil, simply because that was in the cubard it seems to work well, brings out the grain nicely