Not a review, but..... The Mora training Knife

bilko

Settler
May 16, 2005
513
6
53
SE london
I went to pick up my very first knife this morning. It came yesterday by recorded delivery and i missed it so a quick trip to the post office and i am now in possesion of a Frosts mora training knife.
I left it sealed in the envelope as i drove home incase i was stopped for any reason. As i drove i thought about this amazing edge that would soon be in my hands, push cutting through enourmous felled logs. By the time i got home it had turned into more of a knife to end all others than a simple cheap bushcrafting tool :D

I walked in the house and laid the envelope on the pc desk whilst i put the kettle on. Armed with my tea and a new realistic expectation i removed it from the jiffy bag. I have to say my first impressions were pretty muted realy. The knife and sheath are in a midtone olive. It looked strange on my desk, quite anonomous. I think this is because of the matt finish on the handle and sheath not reflecting any light, begging to be lost amongst the forest floor. You would definately have to keep an eye on where you put it when not in use.

Ok, "lets see this blade" i thought. The blade does not readily come free of the sheath which is good. With a hollow "click" and even worse scrapeing noise i released the blade. My audible sense told me immediately that the sheath is cheap and nasty and after inspection it's clear that the sheath won't last long at all. There is a corrigated affair to lend movement to the belt clip and the clip assembly itself is too thin and looks like it will split after moderate use.

No worries, You get what you pay for and as this is my first knife costing all of £10 im not overly concerned.
My attention already on the knife i immediately notice a greasy film over the blade. "Thats good" i said ( :rolleyes: maybe i shouldn't tell you about talking to myself :D ) I expect the film of grease is to protect the blade whilst in storage and transit, which is another plus.
I have a medium sized hand with chipolata fingers but the handle hosted them quite well. I am able able to fit all 4 fingers under the safety lip and my thumb round the back with just the top of the knuckle peeping over the top of the handle.
The handle itself is solid and beefy, quite fat infact. All the joins from the plastic moulding are smooth and the whole thing feels pretty strong. There is even a good lanyard wholewith excellent thickness around the edges. The whole handle is covered in that minute non slip grain which seems rather effective.

The blade. Having read stories on here about " scarey sharp!" with different knives i was determined not to be disapointed although in the same mindset i did still expect mine to be a steel eating monster ( as you do ) :D
I picked up the jiffy bag and with a latteral grip away from me pushed against it. there was a slight struggle whilst the edge bit into the thin cardboard and selathane bubbles. I let the blade findit's own way into the material and once confident it was hungry i pushed a bit harder. "Good", it slices confidently through the rest of the bag. That's not to say it's push sharp yet as it needed a pretty stout edge to get it's teeth into. I would say ( from my limited experience ) that it's mid way between slice and push sharp. needless to say i set about chopping up the rest of the jiffy bag with a variety of cuts.
It is obvious to me now that the blade needs some sharpening to make it trully effective. The first inch of the blade nearest the handle is good although the rest up to the tip struggles. I need some water stones i think.
Coclusion.
I think this knife will serve me well, it appears raw in it's function with no delusions of grandure. it's just heavy enough to be integral to your stroke and the blade is thick enough not to flex with light work. The safety guard/lip doesn't feel intrusive and the knife overall is pleasing to the eye. It's not tactile though, infact it looks like it preffers to be left alone unless you want to cut something.
The 3 things i dislike about it most are :the colouring which makes it look everso slightly toyish. The sheath, which is cheap and nasty with no character or substance, and the fact that evey time i release the knife i get a sliver of nast plastic on the blade. Apart from that i would reccomend it.

Some readers may have noticed my incorrect terminology but to be honest i realy am new to knives and i havn't got the hang of them yet. However, i hope this helps any newbie ( like me :) ) when considering the purchase of a Mora training knife.
 

JFW

Settler
Mar 11, 2004
508
23
55
Clackmannanshire
Bilko,

I have one of these knives - black handle and sheath - had it over a year now and it gets regular use, a great tool.
I agree with most of your comments and to ease your fears regarding the sheath, yes it is cheap and nasty but they are quite robust - mine is still in perfect working order. If you don't like the look you can always cover it with leather/paracord or similar, will make a big difference.
Anyway enjoy your new knife and may you get many years of happy and safe use out of it.

Great review

Cheers

JFW
 

Womble

Native
Sep 22, 2003
1,095
2
58
Aldershot, Hampshire, UK
By careful with it around water, though...

I left my sheafed Mora on wet grass (this time last year) for about 15 minutes, and didn't think to check it. By the next morning it had got quite discoloured.

The sheaf isn't waterproof!
 

ChrisKavanaugh

Need to contact Admin...
Get some very bright orange/yellow/red cloth. Cut a strip and thread it through the lanyard hole and knot it securely. Do not make a lanyard loop. That will only snag on something and turn your Mora into a christmastree decoration. Now you are going to practise keeping your knife in it's sheath unless it's in your hand. It doesn't belong anywhere else, but if you make this mistake you can relocate it.
 

maverick

Tenderfoot
Nov 25, 2004
69
1
Newport, South Wales
Hi,
I had the same first response when I opened mine on christmas morning.
I was a little disapointed at first but as the saying goes "the proof is in the pudding" as you will find out :D

The best tip I have had was from ED when he advised me to cut a small whole in the bottom of the sheaf as this helps dry out any moisture trapped within ;)
another option is to cut a small V shaped notch in the bottom.

After franticly hunting around your camp several times a day for a little green knife in long green grass you will soon learn to put it away safetly!! :D
 

Graham_S

Squirrely!
Feb 27, 2005
4,041
66
51
Saudi Arabia
i have a simple rule, my knife is either in my hand or in its sheath. and i certainly don't put it under my arm as recommended in RMs bushcraft book. razor sharp knives and brachial arteries do not mix.
 

bilko

Settler
May 16, 2005
513
6
53
SE london
JFW said:
Spacemonkey,

I'm assuming that this was in a professional capacity and not when you were out in the bush?

Cheers

JFW
Yeah, i was thinking that as well, although i nearly did something very similar whilst cutting with a stanley knife when i was 14.
Thanks for all the replies guys and gals :D
 
Super! On a lot of knife sites that would be called a review.

Now, can you get hold of some 320 grit emery (wet&dry) paper and a large flat surface? I believe that we can quickly get to "scary sharp". Yep, that's it - no expensive water stones, sharpmakers - just some emery.
Later can come special techniques involving a few cereal boxes and a little green buffing compound - and I can send you some of the latter..
 
My apologies if a fast post this morning as I headed out to work is seen as "pushy". I do though believe that we have a unique opportunity to see how someone new to Moras and Scandinavian edges gets along with putting one into shape. It would be of immense value to others who follow the same path later.
 

Grez

Forager
Apr 16, 2005
108
0
49
-
OldJimbo said:
I do though believe that we have a unique opportunity to see how someone new to Moras and Scandinavian edges gets along with putting one into shape. It would be of immense value to others who follow the same path later.

Do you have any recommendations on what would need doing to get one into shape? :confused:

Cheers

Grez..
 

Chopper

Native
Sep 24, 2003
1,325
6
59
Kent.
I had the same feeling about the sheath hanger when I bought 10 of these for my scouts, I made a trip to the local car scrap yard and aquired some seatbelts.

Take about 18" and fold enough from one end to make a pouch deep enough to place the end of the sheath that contains the blade into and stitch this very tightly.

Then do the same with the other end to form a belt loop, you can make this end as big as you like, I put three lines of stitching along the bottom of this, just to make it very secure, you can then cut the plastic belt hanger off of the supplied sheath once you are happy with what you have made.

Then, using a thick hot needle, melt two holes about 1cm from the top rounded edge of the plastic sheath about 5mm apart, this will allow you to place a few stitches through the webbing and through the plastic in order to keep the plastic sheath inside the its new webbing outer.

And there you have a standard Mord sheath now acting as a webbing sheath liner.

You can if you wish, add a strap to secure around the handle.

IMPORTANT. When cutting the plastic belt hanger off do it at the point that it joins the rounded part, this will leave the knife retention lugs on the sheath so it will still retain the knife.

The cost of this project was just a bit of cotton and some time, the seat belts were free. (no I did'nt nick them, I was given them from some cars that were about to be crushed).
 

Goose

Need to contact Admin...
Aug 5, 2004
1,797
21
57
Widnes
www.mpowerservices.co.uk
Spacemonkey said:
Tis true- I cut through a brachial artery today by accident as it was unusually close to the surface. Could have made a nasty mess...
I'm guessing you do the same job as my wife used to, she knows they way to a mans heart,through the stomach but aim for the left ear :eek:
 

spamel

Banned
Feb 15, 2005
6,833
21
48
Silkstone, Blighty!
I have a small frosts whittling knife that comes in a spag plastic sheath. Tacky and horrid, with the same flimsy belt loop thingy, I would not trust it on my belt. I don't like my knife on my belt when I am out and about though, so I decided to get some thick green nylon cord, I think you all may know it as purlon? I tied a turks head with large lengths on the running and standing ends. The plastic sheath slips into the turks head which is a tight fit, and stops just below the top of the sheath. I then use the free ends to tie it to my torso in a shoulder holster stylee. I think this is referred to as a Baldrick? Anyway, it is very comfortable, hidden from view under a jacket, secure and easy to put on/take off.
 

Lore

Forager
Dec 19, 2003
108
16
Co Meath, Ireland
I have bought carbon and stainless steel Frost Mora knives. I think that someone described them as cheap and I would agree but with a little attention they can become very very good. I have an India oilstone which can be bought from any tool shop . You can achieve shaving sharp. I have watched with intrest the arguement over stainless versus carbon and in my opinion theres really not much in it at the moment. We would all like to think that we will always look after our knives with the utmost respect and diligence but in the real world we often use our knifes to do a task where the task is as important as our knife care so it can be easy to forget to give the knife that final rub with the oily cloth. With stainless steel this is less important . I would ( it has been done by many others as well) recommend www.ragweedforge.com as the best place and cheapest that I have found to get Mora knives. He has a great catalogue . Check out the whole website, lots of axes as well including Wetterlings at great prices.
 

dsgr

Member
Dec 31, 2004
14
0
Greece
I second the recommendation for www.ragweedforge.com. Ragnar is a great guy to do business with, and his site shows a HUGE selection of knives & stuff - beware though, you won't be able to get just one or two... :p
 
Grez: I'll need a few more days to get a revised Mora sharpening page up - because I need to get more pics to have things make sense.
For a long time we've known that if the Scandi bevels are honed on a large abrasive surface such as emery on a counter top or piece of glass, then the edge is straightened and made uniform for much better edge holding. Only then when everything is uniform - is a piece of rubber (such as a mousepad) used under some emery to very slightly convex the bevels. We then polish using green buffing compound, because polished bevels reduce friction. Some of us then strop at a higher angle to get a tiny 1-2mm steeper convex at the edge for more robustness at very little cost of cutting efficiency.

What's new came from some experiments over at Outdoors-Magazine, in fully convexing Moras in order to compare the cutting to standard well sharpened identical models. That's too much work, and demands too much skill for most. But -if the flats on the side of the blade are properly flattened and polished with emery then green buffing compound, then the top shoulders of the bevels are rounded and polished - cutting efficiency goes up remarkably. It doesn't take long with a sheet of emery to see that the original flats are concave, and the shoulders very uneven.

So - about four hours work by hand with emery and green buffing compound if the blade is rough. Then if the top shoulders are only slightly rounded and polishing goes well -you end up with a Mora that looks just like a new one.. But it most certainly doesn't act like one! It's surprising how few knives can beat such a tuned up Mora.

Ragnar is a great guy to deal with and has been around a long time. I'm reminded that I have to trade with one of my grand-daughters to get back a soft-tempered stainless Mora so that i can send it to him to prove a point. That's saying something with millions of Moras out there - a poorly tempered one is so rare as to be a collectors item!
 

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