My first selfbow

[Leon]

Hi,
Inspired by this thread http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38543 started by Bushman, I’m part way through my first hazel selfbow. After picking up tips from across the net, I’ve reached a stage where I’d really appreciate a little feedback on the tiller and some advice on how to proceed with regard to such things as when/if to belly temper or bend out the tips.

Also, as the time is approaching for a first shooting, I’m in need of a suggestion for a proper string and when to start using it in the tillering process (I’m using 550 paracord at the moment for tillering, with the string just long enough to put a little tension on the bow) and some appropriate arrows for basic shooting. Whilst I’d like to have a go at making arrows, having little experience at archery means it’s probably best to cut down on variables at the moment and have something to compare to.

I’ve applied for some introductory lessons with a local club but there is a waiting list of around six weeks.

A few notes on the bow:
63” long; 1.5” wide at the fades which lasts till about 12” from the tips and then width tapers to about 5/8” (about ¾” at the nocks). The thickness tapers from around ¾” just past the fades to about ½” at the nocks. The handle is 1” thick and 1.25” deep (some more to come off here poss?).

I think from looking at the pics a little more wood needs to come off the last foot or so each limb. The bow is at 12” and 18” respectively on the tillering stick.
I have a spring gauge which showed around 36lb when the bow was pulled to 22”.

All help most welcome. Addictive stuff this bow making!
Thanks for looking.

 

[Ex Member - Sidney Bounty]

for a sec their I thought it was a xbow when I saw the first photo...LOL...

nice bow let us know how it shoots....

making a bow is one of the projects I need to get around doing soon....

 

[drunkmonkeyboy]

Hi i have made a couple of self bows, both from hazel too. they worked out ok until i noticed one starting to develop a crack! glad it didn't snap in my face as it was pulling nearly 60 lbs! learn a valuable lesson there don't make it to powerful.

In the second pic it looks like you have a slight hinge just below the handle on the left also your right it needs a little more taken off the left limb. looks a little too straight there. the tilter on the right limb looks good but could do with a little more taken off the end of this limb too. Looking really good though should make a really nice bow. have you found that the hazel stays bent slightly after you've unstrung it? i got some hide glue and raw hide and was going to back it to give it some more strength and help it return to its normal set, until i found the crack!!

I hope that has helped, i just agreed with your conclusion really.

i hope to be able to get started on another one soon but finding usable wood that i can harvest is tricky. good luck getting it finished and am looking forward to the updates.

 

[WhichDoctor]

Thats a very fine looking bow so far :You_Rock_ . I would agree with you that it need some more off the ends, also I would say it looks like its bending a little to much just on the junction of the limbs and the handle. I'm by no means an expert and I'm shore some of the experts on here will be able to give more considered guidance. Looking superb though, i look foreword to seeing it finished and in action .

 

[Leon]

Thanks guys!
I suspected there was a hinge developing by the handle on the left but wasn't sure so didn't want to influence things by mentioning it - thanks for flagging it up. I'll concentrate on trying to smooth that out.
The main plan I used for dimensions was for a flatbow out of a board which of course in retrospect doesn't take account of the crowned back that the hazel has. Maybe I should have tapered thickness from the handle a bit more gradually?
Drunkmonkeyboy:
Yes, the bow does stay a little bent after tillering - hoping belly tempering will help with this? If not, then I'll be after tips for backing mine too.
Bad luck with the crack in your bow. It must be incredibly frustrating. Good luck with the next one!

 

[Wayne]

Leon before you remove any material from near the handle on the left limb can you post a pic of the back of the bow.

It looks like the crown is more pronounced there and it may not be as bad a hinge as it first appears.

Take off only a little material and the return it to the tiller.

 

[Leon]

Leon before you remove any material from near the handle on the left limb can you post a pic of the back of the bow.

It looks like the crown is more pronounced there and it may not be as bad a hinge as it first appears.

Take off only a little material and the return it to the tiller.

Sure thing. I'll take a few tomorrow and get back to you. Thanks

 

[Wayne]

I forgot to ask what sort to draw weight you were aiming at?

 

[dwardo]

Looking good and yes it is adictive

Try to get the limbs to bend more mid limb. If a hinge is starting to appear then heat treating early enough can help avoid problems. When tillering the final bits use a scraper to remove small amounts of wood then re-check tiller.

Good luck.

 

[Leon]

Couple of pics of the back added showing area near potential hinge.

Having little experience with regard to draw weights I've just been guided by what I've read. I did get to shoot a few arrows yesterday when I dropped into the archery club. I used a 24lb recurve which seemed very easy to draw. Judging by that short experience and from what I've read, I'd be more than happy to have mine come out somewhere between 35 and 45lb. To be honest, as ths is my first bow, just one that can move an arrow forwards would be great but it's good to set goals!

Any thoughts on strings an arrows?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Wayne]

Take a little more off the rest of the left limb using a scraper as mm count. The growth rings along the limb should be nice and even.

Once again scrap a little and then return to the tiller.

Use Dacron B50 for the string. 6 -8 strand sting will do.

 

[Rob]

As Wayne said - a little at a time and then back to the tiller.

Looking at the original pics. It does look like you have a few bits of the left limb that arent working towards the tips. If it is a hinge near the handle, then you would do well to get the whole limb working before you tackle too much more.

Having seen plenty of strings give out over far too many years playing with bows, I would be happier using 12 strand for the string - especially as you are bound to start trying to draw the bow heavier and then take some more off to reduce the poundage (don't ask me I shoot quite heavy bows). If you are looking for something more natural than nasty old dacron (although it is a safe and steady option) then how about some linen? Wax it well and look after it and it will last for ages.

As for arrows - if you are looking to make your own then there is plenty more hazel in the woods. Failing that, I can put you in touch with someone who sells bamboo shafts.

 

[drunkmonkeyboy]

make your own string, i got some b50 reels and have enough to make loads. it is a good idea to get a good serving tool as it makes life a lot easyer. think i got mine from a place call Flybow in Ireland. If you do a search on google you can find them, not sure if i am allowed to post links on this forum

As for arrows it depends on how you wanna go, you could go and get some more arrow sized hazel or if you can find some near you get some dog wood. both would make good arrows. then its find feathers, I managed to get a load of turkey feathers, from a friend who breeds them, for fletching. i also have flint which i was planning to use as a point and pine sap i gathered to glue them together. I just wanted to see if i could make a proper home made bow.

If you want the arrows to be as accurate as possible then your going to have to get wood of the same weight and spine from a suppler. But i get the feeling your will go the gather your own route as i will do. keep us up to date with your project it will encourage me to get out there and source more suitable wood.

 

[Wayne]

It is not the best time of year to collect wood for arrows. You should aim to collect during winter when the tree is dormant.

I tend to use Dogwood Cornus sanguinea.

Spindle Euonymus europaeus

Hazel works fine.

High Altitude Sycamore and Port Orford Cedar are good commercial shafts.

The longer the fletches you use the more accurate the arrow but you will increase drag and thus lose range.

 

[Leon]

Thanks for the tips, fellas

I've been scraping and now have more movement in the outer limbs which has resulted in an improved shape. Before I do more I think I'll have a go at heat treating the belly to help reduce set.

At the moment it seems a bit daunting. The more you read, the more you discover you still have to read

Re strings and arrows, I think I'd just like to pick up a few commercial arrows to get me started and have something to compare future home made ones to. I'll be doing some more conservation coppicing this winter, so hazel should be abundant

Having scratched the surface reading about arrows, I just wondered how many of you use things like fletching jigs, spine testers etc etc.? Or are these really for serious target shooting?
I did see plans on the net for making a simple string making jig which seems useful.

Apologies if this is a dumb question but I did read that feathers used on each arrow should all come from either left or right wing and not a mixture of both, so how do you tell?
Thanks for your continued help (and patience with the newbie bowyer )

Dave

 

[Wayne]

Fletching jigs make life a little easier. I wouldn't go beyond that if your planning on shooting for fun.

I don't think I own a straight arrow and they generally go where I want them.