My first knife

cgait

Full Member
Jan 23, 2005
168
1
35
Cwmaman, South Wales
This is the first knife i have made. Its is not functional it is just for me to see if i can actually make a knife. The blade is made from mild steel (hence why it will not be a functional knife) and the handle is made from an old hazel spindle i had from my bow drill set. I made the whole thing using a hacksaw to get the general shape, a file to get the finished shape, a drill piece to bore the hole in which the tang sits and plastic mallet to knock the handle on. Please could you tell me how I have done. Criticism's and compliment are welcome :) .
 

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Robbie Roberson

Forager
Nov 28, 2004
112
0
69
Tennessee, U.S.A.
Cgait, I really like the blade shape, it appears to be almost perfect. :D

I think you did a great job on this knife, especially for your first, and as a test model, a good place to start.

Everyone has a preference, and the only thing I would have to change (only for me) would be the handles. I have rather large hands, so I would need a larger handle.

But your handle may be just the perfect size for your hands. You said the knife will not be functional, I beg to differ with you :p . :D

Not all cutting tools have to be hardened to cut. Hardening of a cutting tool is really only done so the edge will last longer while cutting, which means that you could sharpen your edge and cut softer items with it.

A sharpened, non-hardened blade can cut a multitude of things, it just won't cut harder items and stay sharp as long. So you can sharpen it and cut food items and many other things.

Just use a ceramic rod to get the edge back instead of a file, this way your edge will last longer.

Try it and I'll bet you'll be surprised just what things it can cut.

Robbie Roberson ;)
 

cgait

Full Member
Jan 23, 2005
168
1
35
Cwmaman, South Wales
The blade is what i like about this knife. It is just the right size for me. There are a few tiny kinks in the edge from where i filed the bevel in.(i havn't had chance to take it to a sharpening stone yet :( ).

This size handle is not my favourite but it works quite well.I prefer a slightly larger handle (the same width as the blade) with a finger guard on the same side as the edge. The mora economy knife handle is almost perfect for me. The only problem I have with it is the curved back I prefer a flat back.

The only reason i decided to make this a spike tang is than i had no pillar drill to bore the pin and lanyard holes otherwise it would've been a through blade. I'm glad you think that it is an reasonable job for a first knife.

My next step will be getting some o1 tool steel and some nice wood possibly cocobolo or brazillian rosewood. And making a knife which is a bit better than this as the materials will not be scrap I found in my garage ;) .

I mean after all practice makes perfect right?
 

mojofilter

Nomad
Mar 14, 2004
496
6
48
bonnie scotland
I think that you have done well too, you certainly have nothing to be worried about moving on to tool steel and nice wood. Shing offers a heat treat service too if you dont have the facilities to do it yourself!

There is always something special about using something you have made yourself, even if its not as perfect as a bought item!
 

JohnC

Full Member
Jun 28, 2005
2,624
82
62
Edinburgh
Cgait, I'd agree that it'll be functional. I also made a "first" knife using mild steel. I reasoned that I'd learn the techniques on junk metal before shelling out for some 01 steel (which I've doen) and am now halfway through the next knife. :D
However, on a recent trip I used the first knife for food prep, whittling, branch splitting etc and the edge stood up well.
I like the look of the profile you made and admire the use of tools you have to hand.
It's great to make a knife in this fashion, just to see what you are capable of and I'd recommend giving it a go to anyone.
I'd recommend http://www.greenpete.co.uk/index.htm Greenpete's excellent instructions and http://www.toolsteels.co.uk/prods.html# for steel
 

cgait

Full Member
Jan 23, 2005
168
1
35
Cwmaman, South Wales
Thanks for the links john c they should be quite helpful when i get around to buying the steel in about 2 weeks. (holiday next week).

Funnily enough mojofilter i was talking to ed not to long ago and he mentioned shing over on British Blades. He said he sells pre-treated steel. So it may be a good idea for me to get in touch with him at some point.

I think for my knife i may try heat treating it myself to see if I can complete the whole process. Last time i spoke to ed he showed me a make-do forge made from two chocolate tins that he had over xmas. If I make one I will post a picture). But I think I'll only do this when I use o1 steel. Because i know you can heat-treat and temper the blade in your house.
 

JohnC

Full Member
Jun 28, 2005
2,624
82
62
Edinburgh
cgait said:
...Because i know you can heat-treat and temper the blade in your house.
:eek:

You're welcome. I'd suggest outside the house...

Ive used charcoal in half of an old calor gas canister, with a copper tube leading to a foot pump to provide air. I could get this up to a good heat, enough to reach that non-magnetic state I'd been told to reach.
 

Hedgehog

Nomad
Jun 10, 2005
434
0
54
East Sussex
Nicely done there & a great way to get familiar with the methods & materials of knifemaking.

The blade shape looks very good, one thing worth bearing in mind is the transition between the blade & the tang - sharp internal angles in the steel will likely cause stress risers when it is heat treated, these will produce weaknesses. You can see some examples here...http://www.brisa.fi/start3.html - there is a curve where the tang joins the blade to prevent weakening.

Have fun with your next one ;)
 

Hedgehog

Nomad
Jun 10, 2005
434
0
54
East Sussex
JohnC said:
Cracking knives! DO you use some kind of guiderail for the filing or is it hand and eye? I 'm finding a tendancy to roll the file

Cheers John,

Just hand & eye.

I find when filing the bevels it's best to take them down in stages. I mark the centerline of the blade edge and the depth of the bevel first. Then I mark about 1/2 mm iether side of the centerline & file each side down to this line at a steep angle. Then I file upto the top edge of the bevel quite shallow & leaving 1/2 mm or so to be done with a fine file, then finally I take the resulting convex bump out of the middle of the bevel. I find it best to colour in areas to be removed with a marker pen so you can see where the file is biting - I redo this as and when I loose track of the bite.

Filing_Bevel.jpg


It's quite an unnatural movement tryig to keep the file level. The way my vice is set up its low enough to nearly straighten my arms, so I tend to hold both ends of the file with faily strait arms and and swing from the shoulders. Adding some sideways motion helps keep the file flat too - 'draw filing'.

It's a bit hard to describe & I'm not completely sure I'm on the right track of your question but I hope that makes enough sence to be of use.
 

JohnC

Full Member
Jun 28, 2005
2,624
82
62
Edinburgh
Many thanks for that advice, here's my first go, and as far as I've got with the second go
 

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Hedgehog

Nomad
Jun 10, 2005
434
0
54
East Sussex
Good work there John,

#1 looks like a nice little user & #2 looks like it will be a very stout knife indeed, I look forward to seeing how it turns out.

Happy filing ;)
 

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