My Firesteel Collection...

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Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
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staffordshire
www.britishblades.com
I seem to have aquired a small collection (like you do). Anyway, thought I'd share, they are from multiple sources and of varying styles - from Roman through to English trade and everything in between - even a fantasy piece or two. :D


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The first three are of fairly typical viking designs common at that time ...from Jason01.

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English Trade or Double Curl style that was standard trade steel from the early 1700's, and continued being traded up to the early 1800's. The French had a very similar fire steel, and one was found in the Montarina region of Cerro Veronese - as shown in the 1988 Exhibit Veronese Flintstones and the Flints of Europe. This style would have been carried by natives, colonists, or Continental, French, or English soldiers from the early 1700's through the French and Indian War and Rev war period, and longhunters ranging the Frontier. Based on originals pictured in The Museum of the Fur Trade Quarterly, Early American Antique Country Furnishing, The Kentucky Rifle Hunting Pouch by Madison Grant, and Fire Steels by Cacciandra and Cesati. Made by an American smith, Mike Ameling.

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A viking style steel, inspired by designs from the mast heads of viking longboats. I'm not sure if such steels actually existed, but certainly viking smiths were able to produce them, were artisic enough and the design is contemporary. Possibly a slight flight of fancy rather than an acurate historical reproduction, but a beautifully made steel and the best sparker of all of them. Made by American smith, Darrel Aune

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A large viking style steel, with the tails ornately twisted and tripple curled. Twisted steels of this type were not as common as the simply curved steels, but there are examples in the archaeological and literary records. One of my favourites. Another from Darrel Aune.

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Single Finger Loop Colonial era fire steel or flint striker - also called a -D- or -n- style fire steel. This is based on an example dug up at Grand Portage MN (pictured in the book Where Two Worlds Meet), and was a common European trade item in the 1600's and 1700's. It would have been carried by a farmer, settler, hunter, soldier, or traded to one of the Tribes in the New World Colonies from the early 1600's up through the Revolution and beyond. Originals have been found throughout most areas of North America, but primarily the northern two thirds, especially along the Atlantic coast and along the Fur Trade routes through the Great Lakes. Examples are pictured in The Museum of the Fur Trade Quarterly, Where Two Worlds Meet, Voices From the Rapids, A Toast to the Fur Trade, Firearms Traps and Tools of the Mountain Men, and numerous other publications. The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has a catalog from Ross & Co. dated to 1797 that shows them offering three fire steel styles for sale - Ovals, Single Finger Loop, and Double Finger Loop. Another from Mike Ameling.

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Burgundian Fire Steel - in the style of the formal necklace of the Order of the Golden Fleece. The Order of the Golden Fleece was created in 1430 by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. It existed throughout the whole area in and around Burgundy, France, Austria, Spain, Italy, and even England, and continued on up through the 1700's. It also shows up in family crests and coats-of-arms for many families in Europe. This one is based on a picture in the book FIRE STEELS by Cacciandra and Cesati - Plate No. 30 dated to the 15th Century. And also on the various paintings and drawings depicting the Golden Fleece necklace. Several early drawings of Indians by the early explorers in North America depict them with a fire steel very similar to this one. Another from Mike Ameling.

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Medieval fire steel with a single loop on top, and a little curl on the front for hanging it form a chain or leather thong. This style resembles the profile of a dogsled. Based on originals found at archeological sites throughout the whole range of the Roman Empire. Examples are pictured in the books FIRE STEELS by Cacciandra and Cesati, and FIRE STEEL by Sanctis and Fantoni. Because of the wide time range of Roman influence, it is hard to narrow the time frame for this style down to fewer than a couple hundred years. Originals of this style have been found with Roman artifacts from the 1st to 3rd century. Original fire steels like this varied in size from as small as 2 inches long by 1 inch high, on up to as big as 4 inches long by 2 inches or more high. And from as thin as 1/16 inch thick on up to a little over 1/4 inch thick. Another from Mike Ameling.

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Fantasy Cobra-steel. A variation on the common C-shaped steel, with one end forged into a cobra's head. No historical precident. Great steel, another from American smith, Darrel Aune.

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Simon E

Nomad
Aug 18, 2006
275
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3rd Planet from the sun
Great pictures and info, I will have to get one of those Viking steels :) As a matter of interest, how long do they typically last if they are used, lets say for all Bushcraft fire lighting needs? I dont assume they will wear out fast, but the reason I ask is the large variation in the amount of metal for striking with.
 

Tony

White bear (Admin)
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Apr 16, 2003
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Heck mate, you're to steels what Hoodoo is to knives :lmao: That's a great selection. Have you got a preference for any in particular? I know you said that the Viking/fantasy one sparks the best but you might prefer another to use...
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
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www.britishblades.com
Tony said:
Have you got a preference for any in particular? I know you said that the Viking/fantasy one sparks the best but you might prefer another to use...

I like em all. Aesthetically, I think I prefer the Roman sled design the best, but I think the dragon-steel and the large twisted viking steel are both comfortable and superb performers.
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
33
58
staffordshire
www.britishblades.com
Simon E said:
Great pictures and info, I will have to get one of those Viking steels :) As a matter of interest, how long do they typically last if they are used, lets say for all Bushcraft fire lighting needs? I dont assume they will wear out fast, but the reason I ask is the large variation in the amount of metal for striking with.

Hard to say - certainly a very long time. Depends how many fires you light, obviously, but I doubt you'd use one up - possibly ever. Maybe if you were using one on a daily basis then you could get a measure - I just have no idea really, many years at least.
 

Marts

Native
May 5, 2005
1,435
32
London
Very interesting collection and good to hear some of the history behind the styles. Thanks for sharing them :)
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
33
58
staffordshire
www.britishblades.com
Biddlesby said:
Looks like Darrel Aune is a very skilled smith.

Definitely. His forgework is superb ...really superb and he's obviously got the heat treatment for these things nailed. I think I'll drop him a mail and ask him how he does it. Jason01's are very good sparkers too, but these do seem to have the edge.
 

Eric_Methven

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 20, 2005
3,600
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Durham City, County Durham
Have you ever dropped one on a hard surface? I dropped one of mine on a stone fireplace and it shattered. It was the best striker I ever had. It led me to suspect that the smith that made it had hardened it by quenching in brine, but had not tempered it in any way. It was just beautiful to use.

Eric
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
33
58
staffordshire
www.britishblades.com
Eric_Methven said:
Have you ever dropped one on a hard surface? I dropped one of mine on a stone fireplace and it shattered. It was the best striker I ever had. It led me to suspect that the smith that made it had hardened it by quenching in brine, but had not tempered it in any way. It was just beautiful to use.

Eric

Yeah, I dropped one of jason01's on a flagstone, a nice large one and it snapped in half. Good sparker too. :(

The thing is, if you want good big sparks, then you have to harden em up as much as possible and forget tempering altogether. That means takeing em up way beyond non magnetic and holding up there for a good while to get big grain growth, then plunging into a fast quench ...brine. It makes em throw great sparks, but makes em very brittle. I've even heard of hardening em in iced brine - it'll shock the pants off the steel mind, might get a few failures this way.
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
33
58
staffordshire
www.britishblades.com
Simon E said:
Would W1 work for one of these? I have some Nicholson files that I could use.

I would think so, it's a water hardening steel with no vanadium, so you should get big grain growth if you take it to high temps. Probably a very good steel for the purpose.
 

firemaker

Need to contact Admin...
Jul 26, 2005
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Minnesota, USA
stores.ebay.com
Glad you got your strikers.

I do temper my strikers but I leave the striking surface hard. This adds durability.

Its a little hard to see but I let it sit with only the striking surface in the quench and let the heat dissipate from the upper portion. After the upper portion has stopped glowing and turns black, I fully dunk it.

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I see you have a Tai Goo knife....Looks just like mine. Fantastic bladesmith, isnt he.
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
33
58
staffordshire
www.britishblades.com
firemaker said:
Glad you got your strikers.

I do temper my strikers but I leave the striking surface hard. This adds durability.

Its a little hard to see but I let it sit with only the striking surface in the quench and let the heat dissipate from the upper portion. After the upper portion has stopped glowing and turns black, I fully dunk it.
Hi Darrel, yes arrived the other day - need to leave feedback yet, needless to say it will be positive. :)

I see what you're saying about heat treat, you're effectively differentially hardening em like you would do if you were making a hamon on a blade? I can see that this would leave the "wings" a little less likely to break, but do you temper after that? I also notice you oil quench. That kind of blows my theory. :D

Also, I'm curious what steel you use? I've other firesteels which spark well, but dont seem to get the big fizzlers like yours. I'm wondering if that's down to steel choice?

Anyway, great stuff, beautifully made, fantastic skill - you're obviously very good at what you do. :)

I see you have a Tai Goo knife....Looks just like mine. Fantastic bladesmith, isnt he.

You've a good eye, yes it's a little Tai Goo blade sitting there and yep, fantastic little blade, I love it to bits. :)

I plan to start collecting Tai's knives as soon as I win the lottery. :lmao:
 

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