Moulds and metal casting - not exactly bushcraft

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Heathenpeddler

Guest
I would dearly love to try metal casting but am stumped on making the moulds. I'm not really keen on the lost wax method as you can then only make one-offs really can't you? What I'd like to find is a way to make 2-part moulds that I can use over and over again.

Anyone know how I'd go about this?
 

Ogri the trog

Mod
Mod
Apr 29, 2005
7,182
71
60
Mid Wales UK
Anyone know how I'd go about this?

An idea about what metal you intend to use and what sort of thing you are trying to make might help HP.
I did aluminium casting in school and it wouldn't be too hard to do it at home, same with lead - which can be easily cast for fishing weights for example.
Steel might be a whole new ball game however.
Some sensible precautions would make sense but ally probably do-able.

ATB

Ogri the trog
 
H

Heathenpeddler

Guest
Gods, not steel! I'm looking more at pewter, maybe bronze once I get good enough. I'll be making jewellery mainly - Mjóllnir pendants, that sort of thing.
 

Ogri the trog

Mod
Mod
Apr 29, 2005
7,182
71
60
Mid Wales UK
Gods, not steel! I'm looking more at pewter, maybe bronze once I get good enough. I'll be making jewellery mainly - Mjóllnir pendants, that sort of thing.

OK then,
Firstly a big big disclaimer - Don't take my word for any of this, do more research and get plenty of safety advice.
If I was going to do it.......
I'd be tempted to make a casting of one that I have already - maybe something like plaster of paris - one casting for the front and one for the back. Once you have two halves, make sure they fit together as well as you can make them - flatten the faces on some fine abrasive paper.
Using fine tools, carve out a metal inlet and a blow hole.
Before the final closing of the mould, I'd be tempted to spray all the inner surfaces with a silicone release agent - then clamp it up.
Heat your metal and pour it in - wait a while and open the mould to see what you've got - is the pendant useable and is the mould re-useable - if so carry on and if not then have a rethink.
I must point out that I've never done any hot casting at home but it sounds like the type of thing that I could turn my hand to if I was suffucuently motivated.
Experiment with it and see how it turn out - and most importantly, tell us how it went!

Good luck

Ogri the trog
 

Tourist

Settler
Jun 15, 2007
507
1
Northants
My 2p's worth.

Plaster of paris is useable to make multi part moulds. I remember when we nicked a chap for making his own coins of the realm. He used a 2 part plaster of paris mould for making 50p pieces, they were damn fine, lets just say he did not get found out because of the quality of his workmanship.

As a release agent I would try using a candle. No, not by rubbing the candle on the mould - hold the mould over a lit candle flame and coat the mould surfaces with candle soot. It is an old trick that I used to use when I was casting bullets, it worked a treat for me. It also has the added benefit of pre-heating the mould a little so that you are not pouring molten metal into a cold mould.

Linotype metal used to be a favourite for making bullets. If you added a bit more tin it made a nice robust pewter like metal by taking away the softness of the lead.

Be careful though molten metal hurts.
 

Eric_Methven

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 20, 2005
3,600
42
73
Durham City, County Durham
If you are looking to cast pewter, the following method works.

Raw material: Buy up some old pewter tankards from charity shops. Hacksaw off the rim, base and handle. Hacksaw down the length and open the body up to a large flat piece. Use metal shears and cut it all into narrow strips then cut these into small chips. They will melt easier of they are cut into small pieces. Chop up the base, rim and handle as well and add it to the pile.

Mould: Plaster of paris works, but (Gyproc) Hardwall plaster works better. You can buy it from B&Q and it is the kind of plaster that they use in hospitals or anywhere trollys are likely to bash against the wall. it sets really hard and your moulds will last for ages.

To make the mould: For example if you want to make a pewter pendant, and your master pendant is a plastic pendant from a tourist shop, you can do the following (you only have to do this once). Lay the master on a bench. Lightly spray with dilute fairy liquid. Press soft clay or plasticine firmly onto the master. Turn it over and carefully remove the master from the clay. The fairy liquid should help it slip out easily.
Next, melt some wax - ordinary candle wax will do. Place the clay in a dish and carefully pour the melted wax into the void left by the master. Let it set. Once set you can peel off the clay and clean up the new wax master.

Take a couple of small boxes (the insides of match boxes work well for small castings). Mix up some plaster, place the wax master face up in the bottom of one of the boxes and dribble plaster over it carefully ensuring no air bubbles remain. Continue until the box is full. Let the plaster set. (I am assuming that the back of the pendant will be plain in this example). Fill the other box with plaster as well.

Once both boxes have set and hardened, tear the boxes off and you'll have two plaster moulds, a front and a back. Hold them face down on a sheet of fine sand paper and abraid them back and forth until both surfaces are perfectly smooth. Heat the front part up (pop it in the oven for a while, face down on a dish) so the wax melts out completely.

Once the wax has gone, carve a narrow tube from the top of the mould to the casting part and open out the top of the tube into a funnel shape. Do the same on the back of the mould making sure they match up when both pieces are held in register.

Place both moulds in register and wrap together with a piece of wire so they are secure.

Take a tray and place a 2" layer of sand in it. This is where you will do your casting.

Using a heat source (gas camping stove) melt a small amount of pewter chips in an old ladle. If you have a gas blowlamp you can play the flame on top of the ladle to sped up the melting. Once you have molten pewter, pour it into the funnel in the mould. make an indent in the sand beforehand and pour any excess pewter into the indent so it'll harden and you can use it again. Don't leave any pewter in the ladle to harden.

Allow the casting time to harden then remove the wire and crack it open. You should be able to lever out the casting using the funnel of pewter. Check it for detail and if you're happy with it, snip off the funnel and tidy where you snipped it with some wet and dry or a fine file.

If it doesn't workout like you expected, try and figure out why. If it's a big casting, and it is only partly filled, you may need to make a vent hole next to the filling hole so air can escape allowing the casting to fill properly.

Once you master this technique, you can progress to making moulds with multiple castings.

Always do you castings over a bed of sand. Always wear goggles, a leather apron and leather gloves. Always make sure the casting is cool before being tempted to open it.

Hope this is helpful,

Eric
 
H

Heathenpeddler

Guest
Very helpful Eric, thanks! I knew this would be a good place to ask :D

Thanks Tourist and Ogri too :)

I've got a few bits to sort out before I start, namely safety equipment, but I might try making some moulds and resin casting them to see if I've got it right. I'll need something for a mould release for this so would it be best to make a separate mould for metal casting?
 

Tourist

Settler
Jun 15, 2007
507
1
Northants
I'll bow to Eric, but I have used wax as a release for resin based casting. And, if you use wax with hot metal it just burns/evaporates away from the heat.

I will have a dig around a couple of shooting shop websites - there is a commercial release agent for hot metal bullet casting that used to be available that would probably suit your needs, but most people over here used to use the smokey candle trick.

Get yourself down the library and borrow a hobbies book on mould making and casting and have a read I used to enjoy making bullets and things - the peace and quiet of the shed.
 

Eric_Methven

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Apr 20, 2005
3,600
42
73
Durham City, County Durham
If you want to spend some money and do it properly, go to a decent model making shop and buy a mould making kit. They will also have 'white metal' ingots that you melt down in exactly the same way as pewter.

The method I have described above is one that works well when demonstrating casting in a historical context. Traditionally, cuttlefish bone would have been used to make the moulds but hardwall plaster is an acceptable substitute. There are plenty modern methods though but I was trying to keep it simple and bushcrafty from the point of view of being able to make castings out in the field so to speak.

Whichever way you go, experimentation is the real fun part, seeing what does and does not work. As I said, most of the casting I've done has been done in a historical context. I used to make pilgrim castings at events, where in the true historical period people would set themselves up and make castings with a religious or superstitious theme. These would then be sold on the spot to pilgrims who had come to pray to St Whatsit, patron saint of Thingmybob. There would be three classes of souvineer. Lead castings for the poor, pewter castings for the merchants and tradesmen and silver castings for the wealthy. All could be cast in the same mould. I don't know what was used traditionally as a release agent although I'm going to try experimenting with the candle soot method next time I have a go.

With the cuttlefish bone, the subject would have been carved directly into the bone and cast directly from it. The two halves would have been sanded smooth first then carved out then cast. If you fancy having a go at this method you can get cuttlefish bone from pet shops. Budgies use them to sharpen their beaks.

Eric
 

Tourist

Settler
Jun 15, 2007
507
1
Northants
I can't find any release agent over here, though there is some available on US websites.

Eric, soot worked fine for casting all sizes of bullet using printers linotype and either aluminium or steel block moulds, so it should work with other widgets.
 
We've done Bronze smelting using copper and tin over a charcoal fire, and it does take a bit of patience. Whatever you use as a mould make sure it is ultra dry before you start, the merest suspicion of moisture and it can all go bang in the most horrible way
 

BMFHL

Member
Feb 9, 2007
21
0
43
Dublin
I'm part of a group that does bronze casting using bronze age technology. Check it oout at www.umha-aois.com

One thing to remember about lost wax casting.
If you make a two part plaster mould, as described above, you can cast wax into it, and make as many wax positives as you like. Cover each wax in a mix of clay, sand and horsedung, mixed in equal parts. Leave to dry for a few days to get a good surface finish, or fire right away if you're impatient. Fire in a low heat fire, say, wood or turf, about 500-600 celsius. Pour the metal [bronze, copper, silver, brass etc], preferably while the mould is still hot.

Dunk in a bucket of water, while the mould is hot, to get a fun sizzling effect. Gently smash open mould.

Cut off sprues, polish, enjoy.
 

Robby

Nomad
Jul 22, 2005
328
0
Glasgow, Southside
I've got a friend of mine that does pewter casting and he uses Milliput for the moulds. He tends to mainly do single sided casting so I don't know if you could use it for two part moulds. Could be worth a try though. (Carefully of course) I do seem to remember something about avoiding aircavities in the mould (what ever the material) or they can explode or blow out.
 

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