Hello. I'm hoping I can get some advice on making a longbow. I have a very nice stave of Osage Orange about 6 feet in length. The problem is that about 2 feet down, there is a knot hole that goes through to the other side. The hole is about the diameter of a #2 pencil. Will this present a problem or should I cut the 2 feet off the stave and tiller a 4 foot bow instead. I sure would appreciate any advice, thanks!
Making a longbow
- Thread starter Seldomseen
- Start date
Hi and welcome to the forum.
When you say a Longbow do you mean an English or American Longbow? Will need to know that before any advice is given.
As for the hole, it should be fine as long as you work with it and there is plenty of wood around it. Don't chop any off as you will then be forced into making a short bow and will possibly have to sinew it depending on your draw.
Whatever design you try, first you must chase a suitable ring to use as the back.
Steve.
When you say a Longbow do you mean an English or American Longbow? Will need to know that before any advice is given.
As for the hole, it should be fine as long as you work with it and there is plenty of wood around it. Don't chop any off as you will then be forced into making a short bow and will possibly have to sinew it depending on your draw.
Whatever design you try, first you must chase a suitable ring to use as the back.
Steve.
Thanks Steve. Not sure I know the difference between an English and an American longbow. Sorry for the ignorance.
Are you trying to make a Flat Bow, wider that it is deep or a traditional English Long Bow that is D shaped in cross section. As deep as it is wide
I make a lot of primitive bows. I would leave a lot of material around the knot to give it strength. You will need to be careful when tillering the bow. A 4 ft bow is much more difficult to make as there is less surface area to spread the load. It will be a nice fast bow but more chance of snapping when you're teaching it to bend.
If your worried about the knot and a potential hinge you could back the bow with raw hide.
I make a lot of primitive bows. I would leave a lot of material around the knot to give it strength. You will need to be careful when tillering the bow. A 4 ft bow is much more difficult to make as there is less surface area to spread the load. It will be a nice fast bow but more chance of snapping when you're teaching it to bend.
If your worried about the knot and a potential hinge you could back the bow with raw hide.
I would go for an American flat bow design as there is more chance to get enough wood around the knot hole on both sides. With a narrow English design depending where the hole is you may struggle to do this. Also IMO solid Osage is a little heavy for a ELB, great for a lamination though. It will work but this great wood is more suited for the flat design.
If you have a nice thick ring on the back and work any pins and knots well then a 64" or so rigid handle design, 1.5" wide at the fades tapering to .5" at the tips with maybe some mild recurves steamed in would be my design choice. 60lbs@28" would be my target but that is just me.
It maybe worth having a look at Dean Torges book... Hunting The Osage Bow... before starting.
Steve.
If you have a nice thick ring on the back and work any pins and knots well then a 64" or so rigid handle design, 1.5" wide at the fades tapering to .5" at the tips with maybe some mild recurves steamed in would be my design choice. 60lbs@28" would be my target but that is just me.
It maybe worth having a look at Dean Torges book... Hunting The Osage Bow... before starting.
Steve.
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