it's the same old problem innit? short sabre grind = flat grind, or full flat grind = flat grind? was adi saying that flat grind as interpreted by stuart in the quotes was synonymous with scandi grind?
cheers, and.
Long live the hollow grind!
- Thread starter meatmaster
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it's the same old problem innit? short sabre grind = flat grind, or full flat grind = flat grind? was adi saying that flat grind as interpreted by stuart in the quotes was synonymous with scandi grind?
cheers, and.
I was thinking full flat or a scandi ...
I'm sure that these harder steels have a lot to do with seconday bevels being so popular.
Also, on a side note, I've always wondered what a full flat grind SAK blade would be like? Probably be a beaut at cutting but I wonder how robust the edge would be.
I'm sure that these harder steels have a lot to do with seconday bevels being so popular.
Also, on a side note, I've always wondered what a full flat grind SAK blade would be like? Probably be a beaut at cutting but I wonder how robust the edge would be.
sargey said:
For clarification...
A = Concave or hollow grind. Created by grinding on a wheel, different diameter wheels produce differend severities of grind. The smaller the wheel, the deeper the hollow grind. A really big wheel, produces a hollow grind that is *almost* flat. Usually has a small secondary edge bevel, but not always.
B = Full Flat grind. Created by grinding off a flat steel or ceramic platen. The grind goes fully from the spine of the knife, almost to the edge, where it it almost always has a secondary edge bevel (no edge bevel would require sharpeing the entire flat surface of the knife - I've never seen a full flat grind without a secondary edge bevel).
C = Convex ggrind. Usually created by grinding the steel on a "slack belt". This means no platen, so to some extent the grinding belt deforms to the steel, producing a convex edge (*the same principle as a hoodoo hone). The true full convex grind, doesnt usually have a secondary edge bevel - a grannyB for example.
D = Scandi Grind. Many methods to create this style, but typically, the edge bevels only go 1/3 way up the side of the knife. This creates a very acute or "fat" bevel, which usually does not have a secondary edge bevel. Note the difference in "angle of attack" between this and the full flat grind.
All of these different blade geometries (or combinations of them) produce knives with different charicteristics.
A = Concave or hollow grind. Created by grinding on a wheel, different diameter wheels produce differend severities of grind. The smaller the wheel, the deeper the hollow grind. A really big wheel, produces a hollow grind that is *almost* flat. Usually has a small secondary edge bevel, but not always.
B = Full Flat grind. Created by grinding off a flat steel or ceramic platen. The grind goes fully from the spine of the knife, almost to the edge, where it it almost always has a secondary edge bevel (no edge bevel would require sharpeing the entire flat surface of the knife - I've never seen a full flat grind without a secondary edge bevel).
C = Convex ggrind. Usually created by grinding the steel on a "slack belt". This means no platen, so to some extent the grinding belt deforms to the steel, producing a convex edge (*the same principle as a hoodoo hone). The true full convex grind, doesnt usually have a secondary edge bevel - a grannyB for example.
D = Scandi Grind. Many methods to create this style, but typically, the edge bevels only go 1/3 way up the side of the knife. This creates a very acute or "fat" bevel, which usually does not have a secondary edge bevel. Note the difference in "angle of attack" between this and the full flat grind.
All of these different blade geometries (or combinations of them) produce knives with different charicteristics.
Martyn said:
Well, I would not go that far. Convex grinds around here do not have secondary bevels. Secondary bevels are most common on flat and hollow grinds and are pretty much sharpened in the same way. A good convex grind takes 'er right out to the edge. I have a pile of convex-ground blades and not a one with a secondary bevel.
Hoodoo said:
Doof! Yeah, absolutely, I was getting my concave's mixed up with my convex's. Sorry 'bout that.
What about them? You can grind a convex edge by using the slack belt method and put it on any knife that uses a secondary edge bevel. This is sometimes done (the Busse range of knives have one side flat, one side convex for example), but it requires specific sharpening advice, as sharpening a convex edge cannot be done on jigs such as the lansky system (they produce flat edge bevels only).
Martyn said:
An alternative to D is
which Trond, resident Norwegian bladesmith over at British Blades, produces.
When I asked him about the grind, he replied:
I find this profile easy to maintain and excellent to use. Sharpening it on a flat stone will, in time, flatten the bevel though
Hoodoo,
What edge did you put on the Busses? Double convex, that seemed to work well with the Steel Heart that I had.
Cheers
Shaun
What edge did you put on the Busses? Double convex, that seemed to work well with the Steel Heart that I had.
Cheers
Shaun
gurushaun said:
I normally don't post pics of my Busse knives any more because of some personal issues but I reckon one itty bitty pic won't matter.
The one on the right is a Lean Mean Street I stripped and convexed. The other is a Badger Attack that Bob Dozier stripped for me and convexed the edge.
