Leatherwork: dyeing without hardening - help please!

[bobnewboy]

Hi All,

It has probably been discussed before at some point, but i have a problem !

I quite like to work in thick veg tan leather for some articles, e.g an archery bracer i made for my other half. All of the making went well, but when i finally came to dyeing the pieces with Fiebings Pro oil dye, the finished pieces turned out like hardboard when the dye had dried. I have managed to mitigate the effect a little with leather treatments.

Could any of you share your dye prep secrets, such that i get a good even finish, but retain some suppleness in the finished article? I would be especially glad of any product recommendations in this area. I like to have a rich colour that stays put, with a softly glossy finish and retained suppleness.

Am i asking for too much ?

 

[Harlequin1974]

I'm not sure that there is a way to totally avoid the stiffening effect of the dying process - I've always tended to do as you do and treat the leather afterwards to regain suppleness when needed: my preference is for Fiebing Aussie conditioner. As I've got better at leatherwork I've also slightly reduced the thickness/ weight of leather I use.

 

[bobnewboy]

Thanks. I'm going to have a go at using some waterstain colours, with the hope that since they include some waxes etc the wont stiffen the leather quite so much. If anyone has any other product recommendations though, I am all ears.

Cheers, Bob

 

[Tank]

are you using any products after dying?


One of my favorite (but not cheapest) is Eco-Flo Carnauba Cream (https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/eco-flo-carnauba-cream-4-oz) and then for a waterproof layer Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene (https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/fiebing-s-acrylic-resolene)


Ian Atkinson on you has a good video of leather finishes on his channel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM

 

[Dark Horse Dave]

Hi Bob. Earlier this year I sat through a sheath making demo by Tim Chilcott of Green Man Knives. He makes some beautiful knives and sheaths, and with an incredible care for detail. If I remember correctly, after doing a couple of coats of dye on the inside of the sheath, he applied mink oil, as he said it helped to put back some of the natural oil in the leather that had been lost in the tanning process. I believe doing so restored some of the suppleness.

Sent from my E2003 using Tapatalk

 

[Hibrion]

Any of the various oils waxes or creams will soften the leather after dyeing. If you can get a small bottle of a few different options yoy'll soon see what works best for you.
Remember also that the leather will soften with use, so you'll want it a little ob thw stiff side when newly finished.

Getting an even dye will come with practice. Some people recommend wool daubers, air brushes, sponges, etc. They all work and you take your time with each you'll soon get that even finish.

For sheaths and bracers simple daubers should be fine, just keep at it

 

[John Fenna]

I have heard of folk using their wives hand cream..... I use my own mix dubbin (Lard, beeswax, neetsfoot oil) ... which also makes my hands nice and soft...

 

[Trotsky]

After I dye leather I usually apply a good amount of Neatsfoot oil to the flesh side of the piece and allow it to soak in a while before working it in by bending, flexing and manipulating the leather. I find this usually stops it going stiff as a board.

 

[DaveBromley]

I tend to use Professional oil dye (stops the leather going as stiff in the first place) rather than the solvent based alternatives, and then a good coat of neatsfoot oil before stitching. I also found that air brushing the dye onto the leather made for a much lighter coating (even after several passes to gain the correct colour) and therefore made it much more malleable.

Dave