Leather reconditioning - any leather workers got recommendations?

[Paul_B]

I thought that with the number of leather workers on here there will be good advice about what to do to recover leather at the other end of life. I am not talking about shoes, handbags, coats or furniture leather I am talking about the many leather accessories you might have collected and possibly abused over the years. In my case it is new, secondhand purchases of leather binders and notebooks / covers. I occasionally by classic FIlofaxes with a little wear in them but the potential for another life. Not bushcraft but we are all into things outside of bushcraft so I guess I could ask here.

I am talking about anything from a simple clean up and perhaps something a bit more to prevent cracking right up to actually dealing with high wear points and perhaps beginnings of cracking.

I think with wear points you could use a colour matched, good shoe wax. A nearby cobbler has a huge range of trade waxes that are surprisingly cheap and can get pretty much any colour out there. I am thinking a little worked into the problem area, left to dry then fully wiped off might help. Also, if i do this I would probably do the whole leather item with it but less applied and worked into the good parts. The idea this will even out any colour or look on the whole thing that only treating patches could cause. I think this could work for mild cracks too. Not hiding them but actually making them less noticeable.

I think conditioning leather with a neutral cream could not add much. Also I think that anything put on needs to be fully removed as it might collect dirt in use.

So does this all sound good? Any othe advice or suggestions?

 

[Toddy]

Saddle soap, don't soak the leather, but wash it and dry it carefully. Then really look at it. Good cream .....and everyone and their auntie has recommendations on those.... if worked in gently and carefully can really make a difference.
Even simple vaseline works well on surface stuff. Matching colour is a whole other ballgame though.

Be careful though, because sometimes stuff like dubbin doesn't do well with stitching. It can weaken the thread. Caused no end of grief when the newer threads on leather boots reacted so badly to it.

I think good leather is worth caring for. Like good boots and shoes and bags, a little regular care goes a long way to extend the life.

 

[Tengu]

I use Absorbine One Step, but there are many things that work. Go to your Cobblers/Saddlers for some ideas.

I have a Victorian bag, rough but still of use.

Good leather if looked after will outlive you.

(And many times I have saved others dried out bags...)

 

[Buckshot]

Like Toddy said

 

[bobnewboy]

On anything thicker than so called calfskin I’m an advocate for Fiebings Mink Oil. It does darken items but certainly restores flexibility and to be some extent water repellence. The treatment seems to keep leather in a good state for some time - in the order of years, helping to avoid constant reuse. It also smells good, to me at least. I always use it on belts and straps, after cleaning if necessary.

On thinner leather, in my case motorcycle jackets and gloves etc, I prefer to use Gliptone leather cleaner and restorer. Two separate products but very good qualities and smell

 

[John Fenna]

I make my own leather creams - variations on lard/beeswax/neetsfoot oil mixes .... replacing oils, fats and waxes to dried out leather, softening, waterproofing and shining.
For cleaning and gentle softening a good glycerine saddle soap is unbeatable!

 

[FerlasDave]

Everyone will have their preference on looking after leather. What John has said above is the main thing to remember…

replacing oils, fats and waxes to dried out leather, softening, waterproofing and shining.

I would also have a look at this channel I find it very interesting and have learned heaps about looking after boots.

 

[Broch]

Depending on the need (keep hard but nourish, or soften and nourish) I use various mixes of beeswax and mineral oil (I use the same for my wooden items as the mineral oil is food safe). The ratio of wax to oil is varied for the application - from a cream to a hard polishing wax.

 

[Paul_B]

Thanks everyone. I was wondering if the various renapur products were any good. They do cleaners, waxes, creams and balms IIRC. I the noteebook / filofax circles a lot recommend that brand, but theey'ree probably just a more expensive version of what has been suggested above.

BTW my need right now is a cleaner. I have used a damp cloth and then a dry one to dry it. Not wetting it out and letting it dry over some time at room temp and away from heat source. It just makes it look dull. but clean enough. Not sure what it needs. It is a soft leather already and kind of a matt finish which I would rather keep I have two of the same type in two sizes to fettle. I don't need to just want to get them a bit nicer; I might end up selling on so this will be for me at first but then to make a bit on it.

A future need will probably be a speculative punt on a vintage filo with wear to see what I can do to it. Prob a £10 one for a play around. If it doesn't work out it's a tenner again or a cheeky £15 to get rid. I am not trying to make money just something to do and to see what's special about vintage. Nothing to do with bushcraft just exploring this area taking advantage of expertise on here. Thanks!!

 

[Danceswithhelicopters]

I've had much success with this stuff. Returned a leather braided spring priest in super dried out condition to looking like new. Worked on my Barkers brogue boots to keep the original finish rather than a boot polish colour.

They always seem to be at game and outdoor fairs displaying and selling their product by demonstrating it live on real peoples gear.

I can send you a small pot if you want?

 

[Dave Budd]

All of the saddles that I know swear by Renapor and Sheritons leather balsom. They also swear about/against dubbin and neetsfoot oil. The oils make the leather flexible but weakens the fibres in the long run whereas the wax based balsoms nourish the leather, waterproofs and doesn't make it greasy.

I've been using both of the above on veg tanned leather for a few years and have to agree with the saddlers! old belts are rendered pliable again as well as being good on new leather. I prefer renapur over sheritons but it takes a bit of warmth to work it into the leather.

 

[Paul_B]

To illustrate what I am thinking of is refurbishing something like this and whether it is possible or worth doing?? The issues for this I think includes leather that needs noursihing as I think it is a but dry. It also has areas that are lighter than other areas due to wear I reckon.

Then there is this one that looks shiny and yet still worn. COuld it have been like the first one but someone has renewed it before selling on. What do you think?

My aim is to get something cheap like the first one and trying to turn it into something that loooks more like the second. Is that possible?

 

[Toddy]

Okay.....housewife here.
Filofaxes get soaked in sweat, skin oils, coffee greasy whatever folks are eating, etc.,

Basically those need cleaned.
So, decent saddle soap, and then look at the leather again.

The cracked surface on the strap of the first one will never look pristine, but it can be made flexible and 'characterfull'....if it were a sofa then you could use fillers before you polish, stain, etc., but that strap is meant to be used, not padded and more static. Fillers 'might' work, but I reckon you'd be better just using some of the recommended creams from other posts and patiently working them in.

Other than that, I can see no reason why you can't restore either of those to pretty good looking folders again.

M

 

[birchwood]

Saddle soap and also Connollys hide restorer are good.

 

[demographic]

Good thread, I have a pair of clogs that my father kept from when I was.a toddler and sort of want them to be usable or at least soften the leather.
Now obviously I'm not gonna fit into my toddler sized red clogs from about 50 years ago but theyre still solid and I don't like chucking decent stuff.

I can even remember going into that clogmakers (Joe Strong & Son, Caldbeck) when I was a kid and old Joe just bei g one of those kindly old man types who would have a proper chat with a young kid instead of just talking over my head.

Anyway, the leathers gone hard, and Id like it to be in better nick.

I've got some saddle soap so I'll start off with that.

 

[Paul_B]

Okay.....housewife here.
Filofaxes get soaked in sweat, skin oils, coffee greasy whatever folks are eating, etc.,

Basically those need cleaned.
So, decent saddle soap, and then look at the leather again.

The cracked surface on the strap of the first one will never look pristine, but it can be made flexible and 'characterfull'....if it were a sofa then you could use fillers before you polish, stain, etc., but that strap is meant to be used, not padded and more static. Fillers 'might' work, but I reckon you'd be better just using some of the recommended creams from other posts and patiently working them in.

Other than that, I can see no reason why you can't restore either of those to pretty good looking folders again.

M

Okay... OCD over keeping possessions nice type of person here

Coffee, greasey food traces? Never happen with my filofaxes. Seriously not kidding.

Ok skin oils yes I can see that but usually skin oils give patina rather than damage IME. BTW the rough oiled leather filofaxes out there like the Hamilton actually benefit from finger oils. If that leather gets scratched you can often reduce the effect of the scratch by rubbing your finger into it apparently.

The second link binder seems pretty much good to go for me. Perhaps a hygiene clean.

The first binder is obviously a work in progress to get nice enough. I was thinking the strap needs to be made darker to match the rest. I read something about someone using a shoe polish to get the colour back into the binder leather. With leather conditioners and creams to get the leather moist and flexible again. TBH I do think that there is a potential solution if the strap cannot be fully restored to a satisfactory level. It could be removed. There are slimline binders that do not have then in the first place. The only issue is the other half of the popper on the cover would look bad. No idea how to remove that without leaving a hole.

 

[Toddy]

Folks used them as they ate. That's just the reality of it. Busy office workers grabbing food on the go.

If you're buying second hand you cannot expect the original owner to have been as careful as we might be with them.
So, cleaning, yes

Shoe polish does darken the leather, but it doesn't always work in enough not to come off on your hands. It needs care. The stains will set properly though.

I think a used strap, that has been restored, cared for and is flexible and sound, would be no distraction to the piece.
Everything has a life, ageing and wear is part of that. Doesn't mean it's not in good condition of un-useable.

 

[Paul_B]

If I got something like the first link and the wear points like the strap with its lighter colour I@ would wamt to get that area darker and matching as closely as poss. So oit is a case of matching thee stain then???

So if I have understood it right, the advise is to first clean it with a saddle soap or similar, not wet it out too much and then dry it with a dry cloth at first then air dry at room temperature until thoroughly dry. Then is it a case of aa leather balsam or something like a renapur product made for leather renewa? Or would you try staining thee light areas to trry an make the colour more uniform before conditioning?

You see I want it to hold a bit of history in the look but I do not like the worn, light flap look in the first link photos.

BTW I am not going after that one in the firsst link as it is not a great model coming from after the production shifted overseass with the q issues. I am more looking for a decent Winchester I think. These can be expensive online now but there are a few needing work that appear at times. I figure with a bit of work I could get one of the good ones in the end without payuing the top whack for them.

 

[Toddy]

Much of the staining/conditioning depends on which product you choose to use. Some do much better as conditioning dyes than they do on top of other treatments.

I think you need to have your item and then decide what colour you need, nad rather go from there.

Bear in mind that cleaning and then conditioning will darken the colour on something like that well worn leather strap anyway.