Leather questions

[Buckshot]

Having just got some interesting leather for a few projects I now have a couple of questions about using them ...
I'm planning making sheaths with standard 3mm cow and bags etc with some roo.

1/ I want to inlay some snake and/ or fish skin onto some cow. What's the best method of going this? Do I use two 1.5mm sections of cow and sandwich the other bit in between or does it sit inside the 3mm piece with perhaps a backing of, say, a 1mm piece behind?

2/ Are there any special things I need to worry about when stitching fur on hides? Do I need to shave a line where the stitches go for instance or just ignore the fur?

3/ If I want to make a small bag using only snake or fish skin (both very thin), is there anything I need to think about? Stitch size for instance...

Cheers

Mark

 

[leon-1]

Mark, I don't know a whole lot about this, but if you are using a thin material and just purely a thin material you will probably want to make the stitches shorter and from finer thread doubled over. You may also wish to look into the type of stitch that you are using as there many different types, some of which are stronger than others.

Using an awl is a must on thinner materials, that is if you punch any hole at all before stitching (I have some very fine leather needles which have triangular blades, these do not require the use of an awl before hand). Don't drill out the holes as the holes will get bigger over time. Saddle stitch is still very effective as long as the thread, the needles and the awl are matched well.

If you use a glue use one that is flexible, clear and waterproof like PVA (I have one that is washable, it was cheap from Trago Mills in Newton Abbott).

 

[pierre girard]

Small tight stitches on thin material - the more the better.

Shave the fur where you stitch (at least that is what I do).

Never heard of using fish skin, though I have used snake. (that must be a smelly job of tanning).

 

[ESpy]

On the inlay front, here's more-or-less how I do it for sheaths:

Using 3-4Oz leather, cut out the sheath front twice (I usually do them mirror image so I can use flesh side to flesh side).

Cut windows in one of the pieces for your inlays. Save the cut out pieces... Mark the windows for stitch lines & bevel.

Trim down the cut out pieces as needed - thicker inlay skins will need more removing from around the edges. Bevel the edges. Glue these pieces onto the uncut sheath front in the correct position (!).

Glue your inlay skin onto the uncut front. Burnish it down as well as possible at the edges of the raised sections and do *not* go right to the edges with the skin - it looks untidy.

Glue the windowed front onto the sandwich. Sew. I like to use a finer thread & pitch when I'm doing inlays; all down to personal preference. For the back (inside) of the sheath, you can either leave the stitching as is (and run the risk of a knife tip catching the thread); groove it after you've punched the holes through or glue a very thin piece of leather over it all.

Then proceed to make up the rest of the sheath treating the front as one homogenous piece.

You can also use foam rubber behind the inlay material - like the craft foam sheets you can find in Hobbycraft, for example.

 

[jdlenton]

got any photos pete?

 

[ESpy]

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6477 has one of my earlier ones with snakeskin.

 

[Buckshot]

Thanks everyone :You_Rock_
Lots of good info there, it hadn't occured to me to force the inlay out to the same level of the leather.
I'll have a play and see what I can come up with.

Cheers all

Mark