Knive Sharpening

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Craigb5558

New Member
Apr 4, 2019
3
0
37
Cardiff
Hey all I had a look around first I think I chose the right sub category... I hope

I'm early into bushcraft I've just purchased a knife it came with a stone 220 and 120 grit obviously I didn't want to test on my new knife so thought I would test on my cheap crappy knife that blunted instantly (fast lesson not to buy crap/good looking) I got all the pits out and damage and I think I did ok but it's not to the stage of hair shaving do I need a lot higher grit?

You can be blunt and upfront cant learn if your not honest and I'm trying to absorb as my little one loves learning it so its mega rewarding too
 

Hammock_man

Full Member
May 15, 2008
1,453
529
kent
In short yes. Some folk will go down to 8000 or more in their grits. One great spot of advice I picked up was not to make too big a jump in grits. Imagine you are Splitting a log down its length, first off you are going to use a lovely big axe or maul to split it in two, there is your 120 grit. Now to split the half trunk you could use that same big maul but instead choose to to use an axe, 220 grit. The quarter round could still be split with the same axe but methinks a machete would be better as we are moving into batoning, time for a 600 stone in the game of sharpening. Lastly we take out our 12 inch camp knife and the log is been turned into sticks so I am thinking 1000 grit in the analogy. We do, however, have sticks not kindling; so do we need to move to the smaller knife found on our belt? Is the 3000 grit as far as we need to go. Given the time I could of gone from maul to 5 inch blade and got a pile of kindling from a log but it would have been hard work. I use the lansky sharpening system and it comes with 70, 120, 280, 600 and 1000 grit stones. I get very sharp (but not shaving sharp) on rubbish blades in 10 mins. Could never do that by jumping from 70 to 1000.

One thing I would say mind is why the need for shaving sharp. 80% of the time my knife gets used to baton wood and convert it to kindling and "almost" tinder. I do own a 3000 grit stone but it hardly ever gets used. If I was to take up wood carving mind, then touching up a truly great edge on an 8000 stone would be a common task! Making wooden tent pegs don't need no 10,000 grit mirror polish.
 

Robson Valley

Full Member
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,666
McBride, BC
The process and the steps you pick sort of depends on what the knife gets used for.
You have to pick a bevel angle and do your very best to keep it that way, day in and day out.
I've been using several grades of fine automotive sandpapers stuck to flat surfaces with masking tape.
For any and all kinds of camp chores, 600 or 800 grit is plenty good enough.
Light weight and unbreakable, the sandpapers go in any kit.

I carve very soft cedar.
I begin at 600 if the edge is damaged or usually 800. 1,000 then 1,200 then 1,500.
A final honing step on a strop with 0.25 micron Aluminum Oxide is essential.
 

Nice65

Brilliant!
Apr 16, 2009
6,516
2,932
W.Sussex
What knife is it, a bushy type with scandi zero grind, or bevel edged, or flat grind etc.

Do you know the steel type?

There are a multitude of sharpening systems out there, some are freehand, others use a jig to hold the angle for each stroke.

Having used everything from a Spyderco Sharpmaker, stones, EdgeMaker Apex copy, I’ve found for general use and versatility the Diafold sharpeners work best for me. They’re like a file to use, ideal for most blade grinds. But on a scandi grind, there’s a lot of surface to work on, and it’s hard to keep the correct angle all the time, so a jig system might be better. Scandi grind has to be my least favourite, both in use and to sharpen.

Sorry for lack of links to the sharpeners I’ve mentioned, bed calls, but fire away with questions, there’s a lot of knowledge here. :)

Edit: Prophecy is selling a Lansky in the classifieds just now, it’s a good system if you’re looking for proper home based sharpening rather than touching up the blade in the field.

https://bushcraftuk.com/community/index.php?threads/lansky-deluxe-nite-ize-g-shock-pelican.152229/
 
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C_Claycomb

Moderator staff
Mod
Oct 6, 2003
7,405
2,427
Bedfordshire
Have you read past threads?

https://bushcraftuk.com/community/index.php?threads/five-pound-sharpening-kit.11571/
https://bushcraftuk.com/community/index.php?threads/sharpening-some-tips-ive-compiled.12348/
https://bushcraftuk.com/community/index.php?threads/basic-knife-sharpening-for-beginners.10718/

https://www.knifeart.com/sharfaqbyjoe.html
Well worth reading through.

You need some finer grits. 120/220 is for taking out chips. You also want to make something for stropping with. Leather or denim type cloth glued to a board, or cardboard. Apply Autosol metal polish. If you are using leather or cloth, strop at a slightly lower angle than the one you sharpened at (drop the spine a little closer to the strop than it was to the stone).

My waterstones go 120 - 220 - 320 - 800 - 1000 - (5000 which I rarely use for knives) - Strop which I use for all knives and axes. 1000 to strop will give a shaving edge.

I like the DMT diamond stones and Fallkniven DC4 and CC4 for field sharpening, but they are not so easy to learn on because of their smaller size. Water stones are great for use at home, but they can be expensive too. I have just done the searching for you, and would recommend these. My usual source, Axminster Power tools, is rather short on economical options.
https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+hand-...arpening-waterstones-set-of-3-rutlands+dk6710
other options on the page
https://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+hand-...s-japanese-water-stones+b17104?showdelivery=y

Also
https://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk/japanese-medium-waterstone-510464

and the 800grit, which is what I have, and am very happy with it.
https://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk/japnese-coarse-waterstone

That is as cheap as Japanese waterstones get.

If cost is really an issue, consider using wet and dry paper mounted to a bit of glass/counter top/Corian/planed hardwood/Tufnol/Micarta, something flat that can be got wet without warping or falling apart. It is a good thing to learn to use and you can stretch it to include premium sandpaper in 150 grit for re-grinding jobs. Modify the backing and works for convex edges.

For a halfway house between DIY wet and dry, and a product meant for sharpening, this stuff is very, very good.
https://www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-self-adhesive-abrasive-film-ax834464



Soft steel can be hard to get really sharp because it can be difficult to make a fine burr and then remove it cleanly from the edge. If you need a practice knife of known good quality, look at Mora and Hultafors. They use good steel with adequate hardness, without being too hard to sharpen.

Best of luck :D

Chris
 

C_Claycomb

Moderator staff
Mod
Oct 6, 2003
7,405
2,427
Bedfordshire
Is that the crappy knife that blunts instantly, or the "good" one that you want to use for bushcraft? I think you probably mean that this is the knife you bought and want to know how to sharpen well, the good one, but it is good to be sure.

A lot of advice you might get will be aimed more at Scandi style wood working knives, whereas the BG is more general outdoors "survival" knife than spoon carver.
 
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Craigb5558

New Member
Apr 4, 2019
3
0
37
Cardiff
Yea I moved from a pike Bush knife which blunted and chipped as soon as I used it so got the ultimate pro
Screenshot-20190405-142100-Samsung-Internet.jpg
 

Janne

Sent off - Not allowed to play
Feb 10, 2016
12,330
2,294
Grand Cayman, Norway, Sweden
Cheap 'crappy' knife: you need to put an edge with a larger angle on it. Thin edge = breaks easily as it does not have enough supporting steel behind the edge.

Do you really need a 'shaving - sharp' edge when all you do is to cut a few twigs? Do not shave outdoors!

IMO you need an edge that cuts whatever you want to cut when you are outside. Twigs, cord, line? Maybe 30 - 35 degree angle, grit around 350 - 400 maximum.

Sharpen it at home before you go out, each time.
Try to learn to use the knife so there is no need to sharpen outside the house.

The next knife you buy, get a carbon steel Mora. Then practice, practice, practice!
 
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Robson Valley

Full Member
Nov 24, 2014
9,959
2,666
McBride, BC
30degrees is fine for ramming hand planes through woods, ought to be OK for camp knives.
1/2 a sheet each of 600 grit and 800 grit can't weigh 20g and will fit anywhere in a pack.
 

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