Knife making questions

Spark

Forager
Jun 18, 2006
137
3
35
nr. Bristol
bcd.awardspace.info
I have just purchased an Enzo Trapper 95 made from D2 steel. There was a powder coating on the blade which i wanted to remove, so I didn't hesitate in using wet and dry paper. I started on 240grit then 400grit, onto 0000 wire wool and finally used brasso. The metal is quite shiny but i can still see scratches. Do I need to use a finer grit again or am i not spending long enough on the grades?

I have removed the coating that was over the tang as well to achieve a uniform finish. Should I polish the tang to its final finish or do I leave it and do it when I am finishing the scales? My concern if I finish it now is that it will only get scratched again while the handle is being shaped.

Also at what point do I have to fit the corby rivets?

Thanks for your help.
 

brancho

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 20, 2007
3,799
745
56
Whitehaven Cumbria
Not sure abot polishing out the scratches.

When making the hanlde protect the blade with tape to prevent damage and cutting yourself.
 

Bushcraft4life

Full Member
Dec 31, 2006
869
6
Rochester, Kent
Tape up the blade before you finish the scales.

To get the finish on the blade you want just keep working through the grades, i personally would start again at 600 and work upto 1000+ wet and dry and then polish.
 

Spark

Forager
Jun 18, 2006
137
3
35
nr. Bristol
bcd.awardspace.info
Yeah taping the blade is a very useful tip. Saves the plasters!

The reason i only went upto 400 grit is because its the finest grit I have. I will have to buy some finer papers. Where can I buy these by the sheet online? As I dont really want a pack of ten.

I have taken 2 photos to clarify what I mean. This one shows the reasonable looking finish at certain angles. Its good but not good enough.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/gallery/data/507/medium/IMG_11071.jpg

In the second photo the scratches are clearly visible.
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/gallery/data/507/medium/IMG_1108e.jpg
 

-Switch-

Settler
Jan 16, 2006
845
4
44
Still stuck in Nothingtown...
You can get Wet and Dry paper by the sheet from Abrasives Plus. They've got a website but I don't have a link. They do up to 2500g paper and are well priced.
If you go up to p2500 you'll get a mirror finish on your blade but 1200 is good enough.
Just be sure to spend alot of time on each grit.
Polish in one direction (eg side-to-side) then go the other way(up and down) until all the previous scratches are gone.
Dont't move up to the next grit until you can't see any scratches from the previous grit and you should be ok.
 

Bushcraft4life

Full Member
Dec 31, 2006
869
6
Rochester, Kent
Hmm just my two cents, but i would take the blade to a 600g Satin finish.

Its looks awesome, is durable and easily restored, a mirror finish imo looks very tacky.
 

-Switch-

Settler
Jan 16, 2006
845
4
44
Still stuck in Nothingtown...
Hmm just my two cents, but i would take the blade to a 600g Satin finish.

Its looks awesome, is durable and easily restored, a mirror finish imo looks very tacky.

I understand that totally, a mirror finish can look a bit tacky.
My preferance for a mirror finish is practical though. I find the knife cuts through wood better with a mirrored face.
 

-Switch-

Settler
Jan 16, 2006
845
4
44
Still stuck in Nothingtown...
Gerroff? You're not serious.

Hmmm...

I get the feeling I'm about to be told off for being stupid :eek:


When cutting green wood it seems to cut through easier with a good shine to the blade. The sap sticking to a rough-finished blade appears to cause more resistance and makes cutting a bit tougher. I've found this particularly true in spring when the wood tends to have more sap in it.
Obviously this only applies when making particular cuts on certain types of wood but there does seem to be a difference.

Plus a mirror finish makes cleaning the blade easier and stops things sticking to it so much.
 

Bushcraft4life

Full Member
Dec 31, 2006
869
6
Rochester, Kent
Hmmm...

I get the feeling I'm about to be told off for being stupid :eek:


When cutting green wood it seems to cut through easier with a good shine to the blade. The sap sticking to a rough-finished blade appears to cause more resistance and makes cutting a bit tougher. I've found this particularly true in spring when the wood tends to have more sap in it.
Obviously this only applies when making particular cuts on certain types of wood but there does seem to be a difference.

Plus a mirror finish makes cleaning the blade easier and stops things sticking to it so much.

Yes, yes you are :

:slap: :twak: :buttkick: :rant:

:lmao:

:)
 

Jedadiah

Native
Jan 29, 2007
1,349
1
Northern Doghouse
If you want very high grit abrasives, try Micromesh. It's available in 1800, 2400, 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000 etc. I could'nt posiibly tell you where to get it from though!:rolleyes: ;)
 

Martyn

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 7, 2003
5,252
33
59
staffordshire
www.britishblades.com
Ouch! :(

I'm just waiting for Martyn to come back and tell me in no uncertain terms just what a dithering halfwit I really am :eek:


If anyone else has experience of this 'mirrored blade' situation then please feel free to step in and back me up at any time ;) :D

:D

Well I dunno about that, but it's certainly something I've never heard before and I must confess I'm struggling to get me 'ed round the idea, but if it works for you. ;)

[edit - I'd go with the cleaning thing though.]
 

Spark

Forager
Jun 18, 2006
137
3
35
nr. Bristol
bcd.awardspace.info
Thanks for all your help everyone. I will just keep going through the grades of wet & dry, then stop when I'm happy with the finish. Do I keep sanding the same direction with each grit?

Although I don't know if I have to return the knife because I was accidentally sent the wrong one.
 

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