Knife making competition
- Thread starter Man of Tanith
- Start date
well as i bunked of work early today 
i have managed to get the file work finished sand the blade ready for the HT and have set the clay for the Hamon, might try and HT later on then try and polish her up tonight......
here's hoping it turns out ok....
nice work so far gets, this comp should be good.....:You_Rock_
:yelrotflm
i have managed to get the file work finished sand the blade ready for the HT and have set the clay for the Hamon, might try and HT later on then try and polish her up tonight......here's hoping it turns out ok....
nice work so far gets, this comp should be good.....:You_Rock_
:yelrotflm
Looking forward to seeing it. Hamon? Hope it turns out well mate, it can really transform a knife.
What steel you using? W2?
Hamon? Hope it turns out well mate, it can really transform a knife. What steel you using? W2?
Looking forward to seeing it.
What steel you using? W2?
think so its an old rasp type file, the metal is the hardest i have ever worked with, i even annealed another 2 times just to make sure, but its like rock still, i went through 6 drill bits trying to get the holes done.....
the hamon would have looked awesome and was going to be what i really really wanted on it most of all, but the clay was not dry so it flaked off, i dont have time to wait as it needs to be done this weekend, i wont have another chance now until i return from the sandy place......
will sort her out for now and have another "proper" go when i get back, im taking her with me you see....
ahh well, disappointed now...
If its that bad drilling then it may need a hotter annealing/hardening temp. How did you do it? The clay needs to be pretty thick when doing the hamon.
Chin up mate, hamons and HT can be tried more than once on a piece of high carbon
Chin up mate, hamons and HT can be tried more than once on a piece of high carbon
it was annealed to a mid/light orange in my gas forge, having said that the drill bits are a new batch so it could be that i suppose?????
the clay was thick enough, it just did not have time to set totally dry, the moisture turns to steam forcing the clay away from the blade, bummer...
never mind, will have to try again when i come back, and even might just make another the same, its for me so no worries about waiting or rushing to get it done for now.....
the clay was thick enough, it just did not have time to set totally dry, the moisture turns to steam forcing the clay away from the blade, bummer...
never mind, will have to try again when i come back, and even might just make another the same, its for me so no worries about waiting or rushing to get it done for now.....
Mate, its the movement of the clay from its initial position as the moisture dries that gives the hamon. The more movement, the thicker the temper line. You get 2 colours, one above one below the temper line. The temper line is the distictive bit. No movement of the clay, no temper line.
Best way to get rid of moisture is to stick it in the oven at 80c or leave the door open. It wont create pressure in the form of steam to move the clay, but it'll dry it. Obviously you dont harden the blade with the clay on, just temper it. It creates a differential temper. But it needs a reasonably quick temper or two.
CHIN UP DUDE!!!!!!
Best way to get rid of moisture is to stick it in the oven at 80c or leave the door open. It wont create pressure in the form of steam to move the clay, but it'll dry it. Obviously you dont harden the blade with the clay on, just temper it. It creates a differential temper. But it needs a reasonably quick temper or two.
CHIN UP DUDE!!!!!!
ok i see now, i always thought it was from the HT with the clay on that formed the hamon??????
so when you temper do you do it to a blue/purple where the clay is not on the blade, and then the clay keeps the blade cooler underneath which means its a harder temper along the edge????
so when you temper do you do it to a blue/purple where the clay is not on the blade, and then the clay keeps the blade cooler underneath which means its a harder temper along the edge????
Dont be scared to get the spine hot though, the clay will protect.
Make sure the blade is clean after hardening before you put the clay on.
Make sure the blade is clean after hardening before you put the clay on.
Just to add, if you dry the clay before tempering, the temper line will be thinner and the steel underneath will get hotter than wet clay .
.
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hhhhhhhhmm, did not work, i got the blade to hot, im going to have to wait until i get back from being away, i need this knife done now....
never mind, just means i "NEED" to make more knives....
never mind, just means i "NEED" to make more knives....
i haven't been on the forum for a long time ... but i'm back! so, please count me in.
i'll make my own blade; considering that lately i'm selling more and more of my knives (not much profit, though...), am i a pro?
that's going to be a close race, judging by the knives finished so far. also, i want to congratulate the maker of the prize-knife!
... but i'm back! so, please count me in.i'll make my own blade; considering that lately i'm selling more and more of my knives (not much profit, though...), am i a pro?
that's going to be a close race, judging by the knives finished so far. also, i want to congratulate the maker of the prize-knife!
The steel may not be capable of showing a decent hamon. If its an old file it might not be w2. Ya never really know.
hhhhhhhhmm, did not work, i got the blade to hot, im going to have to wait until i get back from being away, i need this knife done now....
never mind, just means i "NEED" to make more knives....
well after messing around and much forge time the hamon has not worked, but, i have played with some heat and a new idea that has worked a treat.....
your in a for a test guys and gals, my little lad is looking good...
your in a for a test guys and gals, my little lad is looking good...
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