Phew lots of developments!
And a CS master hunter for the fun:
In answer to ed, and as my own comments to Martyn(hello fellow knife nut ! ;-) ):
1) Yes, I do agree, the borderline between carbon and stainless is narrow nowadays. The steel is not everything in a knife, it also needs a proper heat treatment. Stainless steels are generally more difficult to sharpen than carbon steels (because of bigger an more numerous chromium carbides), and also are slightly more brittle. Edge retention is not the main characteristic of a good knife either, D2 has been mentioned, D2 is nice, but it takes a poor edge (IMHO), and keeps it forever, because of big carbides. 12c27 by example is less brittle and takes a much finer edge. A question of choice. A carbon blade may also be brittle (the Roselli carpenter UHC I pictured is 1.2-1.5 carbon at 65HRC, almost as hard a a file!, makes D2 fell like butter when you sharpen it
), everything depends on the intend of the maker. But right, there are a few traps to avoid, the 440 as you described, 440 V,C,B are good (extra for the V) but A is butter. But again, it depends the technology in place. If you read the composition of 12C27 you say "cheap steel", Yes, but if it is heat treated the right way, with crio, and controlled processus corresponding to the blade thickness, it comes to the level of a good carbon steel. Another trouble of hard steels is that you can't steel them (or burnish) the edges. A softer blade that you burnish often enough to realign the edge will cut a lot for a long time ! As you said, Martyn, it is all a matter of concessions. Some makers try to get the best of all worlds by sintering softer and harder steels...
2) Edge profiles are also subject to personal preference. For carving and bush crafting, most people prefer either the nordic type, which has the advantage of cutting quite straight, and can be used like a chisel, or a full-convex edge, of a flat V.
The EKA W11 is NOT a nordic edge, it looks like, but has an edge bevel (which quickly disapeared on mine, thanks to my waterstones ;-) ) The F1 has a flat V grind, and the CS Master Hunter too. Some hollow grinds are good, you'd be amazed at how a hollow-ground Dozier in D2 works! But then, they are hollow ground with a large radius, they are not as good as carvers, unless you carve meat.
3) My experience with coatings is that I ruin them pretty quickly. And you do not want to eat teflon! It is purely cosmetic. Plus if you start sharpening the Jeff Randall's way, the coating won't last much !
Here is Jeff's field sharpening article , probably the most interesting sharpening article I ever read.
http://www.stalkingthewild.com/survival_sharps.htm
Keith, yes, banana trees grow in the garden like a plague. They are much fun to cut, makes you feel like superman
You can check if you see your Mauri poylio at:
http://www.couteaux-courty.com/cgi-...ion=view_category&database=courty&category=93
The picture shows something promising, do you have a total view?
The one I pictured is a Kuivalihapuukko
The bevels of puukkos are not always flat, They are generally maintaned slighly convex to keep some strength.
Keith, I recently got 3 Progression Tempered blades from the very same Brisa. 62HRC edge and 52 HRC back, cannot be bad he?
Which wood will you use for the kankaanpaa blades you got?
A Sissipuukko is a puukko for sissies no ? :-D please pardon my Frenc sense of humor... I have read the term somewhere, just cant't remember were.
Allez,
and a nice parang picture for the end ;-)
Ciao ciao & have fun,
/JM
Having a military background and wanting to use a new knife to the full in the field, a non-reflective blade can be an advantage. Similarly, Ive been wet for several days at a time on occasions and a treatment/coating than can reduce the loving care required to keep a blade rust-free has some attraction. 
): a BB is hard to beat trust me. 
