Jacshirt sew-along
- Thread starter big_swede
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
N
Nomad
Guest
(bump)
I'm up for this. Fancy something similar to a Swanndri Ranger, and maybe the full-on bushshirt later if the Ranger type works out okay.
I'm up for this. Fancy something similar to a Swanndri Ranger, and maybe the full-on bushshirt later if the Ranger type works out okay.
Hi all,
I'm new here. I've been experimenting with making some of my own bits and bobs (mittens and boots so far) for different trips I've taken over the years. My next step has to be a blanket shirt so this type of thread is perfect!
I've got my blanket, sewing machine and thread. Now all I need is ideas of how to progress...
James
I'm new here. I've been experimenting with making some of my own bits and bobs (mittens and boots so far) for different trips I've taken over the years. My next step has to be a blanket shirt so this type of thread is perfect!
I've got my blanket, sewing machine and thread. Now all I need is ideas of how to progress...
James
N
Nomad
Guest
A question...
I've never done anything with flat felled seams before. Am I right in thinking that the second run of stitching means that the fabric will gather between in the middle area of the machine where the big gap is?
I've never done anything with flat felled seams before. Am I right in thinking that the second run of stitching means that the fabric will gather between in the middle area of the machine where the big gap is?
Elen Sentier
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Elen Sentier
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Sorry, I was under the impression I had subscribed to my own thread, which I hadn't! Well, there have been a slight change of plans. I managed to find a cheap wonderful fabric to use. I rate it higher than swandri wool! It's german loden. Do a ebay.de search on loden stoffe and you'll get a host of suggestions. I've found 600 grm/sm loden for as low as €7.99, and as you need 2.5 m aprrox, that is a very good price for that kind of fabric. But if you have managed to find hi-quality blankets, that is as good. So no worries!
On flat felled seams, there are very little risk of the machine pulling, gathering or tugging at the fabric. We'll baste the whole thing very stringently so no worries.
Ok, I'll try and write the fabric prep and drafting tomorrow as I should be asleep by now.
On flat felled seams, there are very little risk of the machine pulling, gathering or tugging at the fabric. We'll baste the whole thing very stringently so no worries.
Ok, I'll try and write the fabric prep and drafting tomorrow as I should be asleep by now.
N
Nomad
Guest
What is this basting of which you speak? Is this what my mother would have called tacking? Ie, running a contrasting thread along the seams by hand, in long stitches, to hold it together until the real seam is sewn (after which, the tacking is pulled out).
Tacking is the process of marking up seamlines, pocket and button placement with basting cotton. 'True' basting is a temporary seam made with long running stitches to hold the seams together while you sew. As you can sew over the basting cotton (unlike pins) it makes the sewing faster and more fluent. You also baste before the first fitting. Basted seams aren't as delicate as pinned seams so they hold up better when handling during construction. This is my understanding of trade terms from countless of english tailoring books and magazines (going thru trade school now, changing career at age 30 so I hope I'm being correct).
Needless to say, this isn't standardised terms so your mother would be correct too if she was consequent.
Needless to say, this isn't standardised terms so your mother would be correct too if she was consequent.
Last edited:
TurboGirl
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Ohhhh this looks brilliant! The Great God Ray sells them, pic and description of their version and history of it here, Elen I can't wait to see yours, folk, but will have to finish some works in progress before I get to play along
Big Swede, your terminology is correct for the trade here and VERY well described
sells them, pic and description of their version and history of it here, Elen I can't wait to see yours, folk, but will have to finish some works in progress before I get to play along Big Swede, your terminology is correct for the trade here and VERY well described
Good, then my £100s in vintage books from tailor and cutter hasn't been in vain!
Look at that sloppy ranger shirt! Just look at the end of the zip! That doesn't look finished! I bet the buttonholes are machine stitched!
Look at that sloppy ranger shirt! Just look at the end of the zip! That doesn't look finished! I bet the buttonholes are machine stitched!
N
Nomad
Guest
I could never get along with thimbles - haven't used one in many a year.
One thing I can't stand is machine-sewn buttons. They never seem to hold properly (had a thread go on one on my virtually new 5.11 Tactical shirt a couple of days ago).
One thing I can't stand is machine-sewn buttons. They never seem to hold properly (had a thread go on one on my virtually new 5.11 Tactical shirt a couple of days ago).
Sew the button properly with waxed linen thread and on a shank and it shall not fall of in the first few years. You should really learn how to use a thimble. I'll try and find a correct video. Keep the following in mind. Keep the thimble on the middle finger. Have the eye of the needle against the thimble where your fingernail is. Hold the needle as close from the tip as you want the stitch, i.e., you want a 1/4" stitch, then you hold the needle 1/4" from the tip. Only make slight movements with the middle finger in the way the finger moves, i.e. up and down, no sideway movement. Use the wrist for the most of the sewing movement. Catch the needle after the stitch and lock the thread with your ring and little finger. Hard to describe, but easy to do.
Last edited:
N
Nomad
Guest
TurboGirl
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Ooooh, a sewing shiney
I like the swanddri pattern, the extra room accomodates a more substantial frame where the pleat is formed by the zip. Seeing a freind make one recently, I thought about underarm gussets... great practical idea for extra movement. (Ease?) and not having a front opening is more weather proof Oooh, I wish I wasn't knee deep in laavu in my workroom! I want to play toooooo!!!!
Nomad: Yes. With several layers of wool that is necessary. And it makes the stitching process faster.
TG: I have had a ranger shirt. The opening is worthless. It doesn't keep the elements out at all! And the pleat is not a good way to create ease. Side seam shaping is a much better way. A good cut allows for more movement. Just adding bulk can actually limit movement. That is why we have distinctly cut garments today. Otherwise we'd still be walking around in squares and togas.
And speaking of sewing shineys, you should see my two new shears. Both chromed! Yikes! One 14" vintage kissner and one new 13" turkish Musa Makas. Yummy!
TG: I have had a ranger shirt. The opening is worthless. It doesn't keep the elements out at all! And the pleat is not a good way to create ease. Side seam shaping is a much better way. A good cut allows for more movement. Just adding bulk can actually limit movement. That is why we have distinctly cut garments today. Otherwise we'd still be walking around in squares and togas.
And speaking of sewing shineys, you should see my two new shears. Both chromed! Yikes! One 14" vintage kissner and one new 13" turkish Musa Makas. Yummy!
Last edited:
I'm in too, have some nice olive green thick blankets ready. I have made 2 simple blanket anoraks before, so now it could be time for something more tailored as you say just have to finish up my second pair of mukluks that I'm doing now. After that I'll be game...
just have to finish up my second pair of mukluks that I'm doing now. After that I'll be game...
There will be a pdf later so no need to save it now..
Now that will be useful, I'm abit rubbish at keeping to schedules....
I've only just noticed this thread and haven't really got time for this now, but it's something I'd be intrested in later
this looks fun, I have just refurbished a singer improved family still on its original table and i'm looking for something to make with it.
Similar threads
