Jacshirt sew-along

[TurboGirl]

Just reread your '1st Installment', if anyones looking for a dedicated pattern drafting tool, I highly recommend Morplans Patternmaster, I've used one since a student and they're excellent- you can sometimes find them on ebay You can get most stuff on there, they supply the textile manufacturers over here.

Rather than a pattern notching plier tool, I just cut a wee V in the edge of the paper- not as perfect, but easy to mark through when you're cutting your fabric and cheaper!

If other participants google 'mens coat technical drawing' through images, you might find similar style garments to save, print and alter if you're a bit rusty on the drawing skills A good trawl around the net will thow up loads of ideas for fastening/ pockets/ other details, look at other peoples garments and save pictures of any ideas you want to incorperate. Pinterests great for things like that, I have a country clothing board for keeping track of net resources you cba to print off

My dad has a singer industrial, same model by the look of it.... he uses it to remake car upholstery, they just eat anything you can put through them, especially fingers (including bone!) if you go between the presser foot and needle

 

[big_swede]

Sorry, no time today either! But why don't the participants post some sketches?

 

[Nomad]

Okay, just scoping out how much material the basic design idea is likely to use (ie, can I do it with one blanket?).

The dimensions are to the seams on the Ridgeline Monsoon. I've allowed an additional 30mm for sewing, and 50mm at the blanket edges to give a bit more for trimming. The grey dimensions give me an idea of how much spare blanket is left.

The sleeves are currently a single piece in a trapezoid shape, although I guess they could become two pieces per sleeve. They also might shorten to allow for separate cuffs. Similarly with the front and rear of the body - single pieces just now, but that's not set in stone. Other bits to add are a hood and/or collar, some sort of pockets, and might have to keep some strips for the neck closure placket thingy. The main thing is that I reckon there is just about enough fabric to do the garment I have in mind. If I'm struggling, I can probably compromise on the length of the body a bit - it doesn't have to be as long as the Monsoon.

 

[grey-array]

I would surely like to contribute to this, gonna sketch out some designs tomorrow
Awesome thread by the way big swede,

One question though, I still failed to give myself the time to study on my pattern making, and thus are glaringly oblivious about how I make a design of clothing fit properly in use
Do you kind gents and lasses have some tip for me, or perhaps some on the go study material I could benefit from?
I am looking to make myself a design that fits right in between the two give option of big swede, some kind of a heavy outdoor shirt with some nice pockets to store something extra without it being encumbering.

Yours sincerely
and a million thanks already in advance
Ruud

 

[TurboGirl]

I found a couple of coat style tech drawings if it helps to print them off and have a playaround with them Being thicker, I think the coats are more like the 'hang' your garment will have in your materials.

Save and print as 2 on 1 page of A4 then doodle on loads until you're happy with your design To get a pattern like big-swedes, the details need putting in the right place with careful practical consideration like pockets, openings, collar, hoods if applicable It can help to scrapbook a page of magazine clippings etc together so its all in one place or when you need to refer back to your plan, include fabric samples if you can (eg any hood fur or leather sleeve trim, buttons you can use etc).

Think about where you'll use it- rain? You need pocket flaps. Wind? Secure fastening at neck. Hood? Attached or not? Front fastening? To be worn over other garments, you'll need to make it bigger... Will you wear a belt/ tool carry over it? How much do you need to carry and where? How much movement will you need eg large arm movements if wood chopping (I'd use a dolman sleeve or underarm gusset to give more movement if its an outer garment). That'll get you started, Ruud

 

[grey-array]

Wow that is a nice bit of info right there missTurbo
and the main part I get in trouble with is indeed the amount of needed space in the shoulder, and how to comnfortably sew it so that it move comfortably as I will be using it when canooing, using an ax and in most other scenario's you could think up in the outdoor live, And I'm gonna do some research on those terms, dolman sleeve and the underarm gusset looks promissing.
One of the thing I wanted to incorporate is a double button at the wrist so for cold windy days it can be closed firmly around the wrist but a looser option for warmer days or when I need some more mobility.
its gonna have a nice tailor to it and seeing the fact I rarely use a jacket ( warm blooded person XD tend to walk outside in short with temperatures of -10 Celsius) I would like it to resemble the amount of issolation of a flannel outdoorshirt perhaps just give it that little bit more for winter times.
but enough chatter off to work
Thanks a million ^^
Yours sincerely Ruud

 

[TurboGirl]

Just seen the Paul Kirtly blog on northernwear clothing, there's some very apt design pointers... the linked one is of interest particularly on hoods and mitts if we get offcuts Also gonna add a link to Rons snowsmock adaptation because I think thats pretty inspiring for detailing ideas/ buttons etc

 

[Nomad]

Interesting style here...

http://www.empirecanvasworks.com/boreal.htm

Several links to various home brew ones in this thread...

http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php/12224-Wool-Blanket-Anorak-Extravaganza

 

[grey-array]

That hood with the insert piece in front of the throat is brilliant and it looks cool as well.
Thanks Nomad now I have to make another design XD
Superb stuff back to the drawing board again
Yours sincerely Ruud

 

[Nomad]

I suppose it would be a good idea to define the features that we want from our jacshirts. Here are my thoughts on mine so far...

• Over-the-head smock rather than an open-front jacket.
• Fairly long - similar to my Ridgeline Monsoon smock.
• A fit that's cozy rather than flappy.
• I'm leaning more towards a fixed hood now - should have a drawcord and be adjustable for bulk.
• Possibly a lined hood/neck - something like thinnish merino wool.
• No seams across the tops of the shoulders (don't want them under rucksack straps).
• A longish front opening that will allow me to get into the top pockets of the cotton shirt underneath. Should be quick and easy to use (probably zipped rather than cord, even though cord looks nice).
• Should be able to roll the sleeves up above the elbows (and they should stay rolled up).
• Adjustable cuffs - I like velcro for this because it can be adjusted just so. If not, I think buttons before poppers due to thickness.
• Should be able to raise arms straight up without the body rising up.
• Drawcord for cinching waist.
• Cargo pockets on upper chest, possibly bellowed.
• Handwarmer pockets above or below waist cinch. Thinking of a single long pocket rather than two smaller hand-sized ones.

 

[Nomad]

On irons for pressing, I won this earlier today...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RETRO-IRO...zHQkP7N1XkyAHeV7kyaNg%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

I reckon it's a Morphy Richards Senior, model number CA-75. Apparently weighs about 2kg.

Should this be fine for pressing wool blanket material?

(I will inspect the electrics carefully, and make good any faults, before plugging it in!)

 

[grey-array]

Hey Nomad that indeed is very handy to do,
I will most certainly make myself a list to make the last modifications to the design, and will post when done,
Or did I just mis interpret the intention of this sew allong?
Yours sincerely Ruud

 

[Nomad]

Hey Nomad that indeed is very handy to do,
I will most certainly make myself a list to make the last modifications to the design, and will post when done,
Or did I just mis interpret the intention of this sew allong?

I was just posting a list of the features that I'd like in mine, mainly to put ideas out for others. I haven't made anything yet. The idea is to take the basic concept and make your own version.