Is it supposed to be blunt? Fiskars X27

[seraphim]

My new splitter, a Fiskars x27, arrived today, ready to clear the woodpile ready for the next load of logs!. A couple of things for all you axe wielding types!

It's far more blunt than I thought it would be. I know the geometry etc. was supposed to 'blast' the wood apart, but it's not even paper cut sharp? Is it supposed to be like that.

Took a couple of 'swing's with it. It got stuck immediately (Small 6" piece of knotty ash, nothing huge) , and when I finally prised it out the grey coating was already lined. This will be a 'user not a display piece but again, is that normal?

Can i sharpen the thing using my fallkniven dc4? or do I have to buy a puck shaped sharpener?

Ta! Hopefully this will make life easier than using the maul, or at least faster!

 

[welchyd1]

My x25 came silly sharp! It doesn't need to be hair splitting sharp for splitting logs.

 

[Johnnyboy1971]

It should have a half decent edge on it but not shaving sharp. I used one earlier in the year to good effect, it was splitting 8-10" rounds at 12" long with no effort at all.

 

[sasquatch]

You could use a file then sand paper to sharpen it, it won't take you long. You'll see a massive difference when you use it next, well worth the ten minutes it takes to sharpen it as they're good axes

 

[Stringmaker]

You could use a file then sand paper to sharpen it, it won't take you long. You'll see a massive difference when you use it next, well worth the ten minutes it takes to sharpen it as they're good axes

I have a GB small hand hatchet which is almost exclusively used for splitting and a rare bit of snedding. Is it sacriledge to take a file to a convex edge? It is as blunt as a blunt thing and I cannot for the life of me do anything with it whilst trying to maintain the grind.

 

[Johnnyboy1971]

Gransfor Bruks Axe file. They make them for the job.

 

[Stringmaker]

Gransfor Bruks Axe file. They make them for the job.

Convex edges too? I always assumed they were for flatter grinds on the other axes.

 

[HillBill]

yes you just need to learn how to curve the file over the bit as your sharpening. All axes were sharpened by files at one point.

Seraphim - Splitters are not supposed to have sharp bits. At least not paper cutting sharp. As long as the get into the wood, its the head shape and weight which does the work. Splitters are not cutting tools as such.

Convex edges too? I always assumed they were for flatter grinds on the other axes.

 

[Stringmaker]

Ah, right. Thanks.

 

[leon-1]

Seraphim, I have never seen or used the X27, but I have read reviews on them and not in one did they mention that they were blunt when they arrived. They did mention that after a certain amount of use they went like a blunt penknife, but the axe still produced the goods.

You also mentioned that the axe got stuck and this is not normal for the x27 either.

If you're not happy then contact the people that you bought it from and ask them about the ones they have in stock to see if you have a defective one and whether they'll replace it. If they won't replace it then you can either take it up with Fiskars directly or sharpen the axe yourself.

On my Fiskars axe I noticed that to when sharpening if I got a good fine edge on it the edge would roll, your best bet is going to be to convex the edge a bit just to make it more robust. In the end this is a hard work tool and the edge will be taking quite a battering, you're going to want the edge to be robust. A lot of axes are not hardened to the same level as knives so don't expect them to be quite that sharp or to hold quite the same edge. If they were hardened to the same level when you damage the edge you'd do a lot of damage and be grinding it out for what may seem an eternity.

There seem to be a couple of ideas on sharpening axes, but I tend to think it's what you're happiest using. You could use a b4stard cut file, I have one that I use on an old fiskars axe and then as someone else mentioned I use wet n' dry to finish things off. I have slightly convexed the edge for strength, it is actually pretty good and maintains a good edge once this has been done.

I also have an estwing hatchet, GB Hunters, GB SFA, Norlund Voyager (an old one), S&N Hudson Bay pattern axe and a Warren Axe "Old Faithfull" amongst others. On these I tend to use a Lansky axe puck and wet 'n' dry.

I like the puck for these tools, it does give a better edge, it's also a hell of a lot cheaper and has a larger surface area than the GB Axe Stone. The Lansky axe puck cost about £10 to the GB Axe Stone which varies from £20 - £30. SO for the cost of the GB I can buy the Lansky, a b4stard cut file and wet 'n' dry.

I hope this will be of some use.

 

[seraphim]

Thanks for the replies all, very useful.

Yes, think I need to give it a proper test out. a single knotty log maybe isn't the fairest test, although youtube reveiws did seem to show it 'never' getting stuck. it WAS easy enough to pull out using my foot on the log and moving it side to side (the coating, so what happens when that wears off?) but I also lifted it with the log still attached, just as I have to wthi the maul.


When I say blunt, it wasn't like a ball point pen blunt, but you could easily press your finger against the edge without drawing blood, something id' never try with a mora or GB hatchet, or even my hults! Obvoiusly totally diferent use from small blade or small hatchet where carving and fine cuts are possible, but then again I didn't buy it for that! The secondary bevel on the blade edge is only small, but it hasn't rolled on the edge yet. Think it's RC58 ish?

The coating starting to come off as well on log number 1.

Bought it from a reputable (according to trustpilot!) uk company so hopefully if it doesn't do what it says and is just defective I'll swap it out for a replacement.

now, ANYONE know where I can get a ralph martindale 6" file from? Fleabay has none any more! I'll probably get a puck as well, as I could use that on all the axes.

Ta!

 

[santaman2000]

As has been said, axes don't need to be particularly sharp to split wood. In fact it's usually the sharper ones that get stuck (they cut their way in rather than splitting the grain) As to any axe "never" getting stuck; well that would be an extreme rarity with an axe that apparently was never used on anything but perfectly straight and umbleimished logs.

 

[ged]

You need to choose your approach with knotty logs. If there are just one or two knots try to split lengthwise down he middle of a knot if you can. If there are lots of them that might be difficult. If there are lots of knots I tend to cut the logs a bit shorter, so that there are fewer knots to get in the way -- or give the maul a good bashing.

 

[seraphim]

gave the fiskars a good use on the weekend. its a keeper. its not the miracle worker from YouTube BUT it managed to get through my pile of logs that i left as they were such pigs and that the maul couldn't get through, and my arm didn't fall off! also, the lansky puck is brilliant, and although not shaving sharp, helped bring this and my hults to very sharp. the hults is back to cutting paper again too! all in all, not a bushcraft tool, but now has a permanent place at home for processing logs. excellent! ta for all the responses too.

 

[British Red]

I have a GB small hand hatchet which is almost exclusively used for splitting and a rare bit of snedding. Is it sacriledge to take a file to a convex edge? It is as blunt as a blunt thing and I cannot for the life of me do anything with it whilst trying to maintain the grind.

If it stresses you, I'll sort it for you (no charge)

 

[Stringmaker]

If it stresses you, I'll sort it for you (no charge)

I wouldn't say stress, more guilt that I have a superb tool not being properly maintained.

Thanks for the kind offer, I'll gladly take you up on it.