in search of the perfect woodcarving knife

[robin wood]

So I have been experimenting for a while looking for the perfect woodcarving knife. I am looking mostly at function here and am looking at larger knives for roughing out. For beginners I reckon the Frosts 106 narrow bladed sloyd at £10 is very hard to beat but as folk get more into carving I like two knives, a bigger one for roughing and a smaller one for finer work. The finer one I like Del Stubbs sloyd, it just works very well.

For me the perfect woodcarving knife is not too deep so you can cut concaves (most scandis fail on this one for me) and have not too much belly, just a nice flowing curve from handle to tip.

I have been working with Del to design a larger sloyd and he is working on some at the moment, basically a scaled up version of his current knife but 3 1/2" long. Then last week Nicola (AKA Dr Spoon) spotted a knife on here with a blade which was very close to what I was after, a little research found out that not only was it bang on but it was cheap too so I ordered 4, they arrived yesterday and I stuck a quick rough handle on one to play with. First impressions are very good. So here are some of the knives.

From bottom to top, Dels sloyd, our scaled drawing for the new big sloyd, the new knife and a bare blade and top a Hankala tommi, almost identical profile but made of silver steel and 5 times the price.

So the blade I am enjoying is made by Polar in Finland, its is a cheap (about £6) but good carbon blade. The one drawback is the grind is not perfect for carving having a very slight convex secondary but it still worked exceedingly well without me touching it and won't take a lot of work to get it even better. It has a sharp square back edge which would please the firestarters but I prefer a rounded back for thumb pushing.

I am sure Del's blade will be nicer, but in the meantime this is a superb user at the price. For my money it would be a better bushcraft knife than the frosts clipper (and I love clippers) I will be using this hard and will let you know how it holds up.

 

[tarmix101]

curve from handle to tip.

I have been working with Del to design a larger sloyd and he is working on some at the moment,

I am sure Del's blade will be nicer, but in the meantime this is a superb user at the price. For my money it would be a better bushcraft knife than the frosts clipper (and I love clippers) I will be using this hard and will let you know how it holds up.

Well done Robin!!

I will be eager to see the outcome of what you and Del come up with and how you like it.

I use a Mora 510 now for my large roughing blade. It's not too deep, but is no good in tight concave areas. I like the sweep to the Sloyd blade, and one with a little more length would be perfect IMO.

Del makes one, and I'll be on the phone with Mary in a FLASH.

 

[Schwert]

That looks like a good size. I too will want one of Del's just as soon as he has them ready.

 

[Dave Budd]

Robin, what are your thoughts on a virtually flat cutting edge, rather than slightly curved?

 

[robin wood]

That looks like a good size. I too will want one of Del's just as soon as he has them ready.

I am finding it to be a very good size for me but the real thing I am trying out here is the blade shape. Most scandis seem to me to be too deep and have too much belly for carving, I suspect this is due to them having been developed as a compromise for folk who do as much butchering work as carving...I do none so the belly is useless to me.

Robin, what are your thoughts on a virtually flat cutting edge, rather than slightly curved?

My thoughts are that it is something I would be interested to try. Having said that I do find the gently curved part of the blades above work somehow more sweetly than the parallel sided (straight edge) part nearer the handle. The very slight difference in profile between the Polar and the knife Del is making is that Del's will start the curve right at the handle with no flat. I think this looks nicer too.

 

[Jedadiah]

Robin, have you used those 'Djarv' carvers? I've seen them around but not heard anyone useing them. Any thoughts?

 

[Schwert]

I have found my ~3" Skookum carver to be very handy for most of the roughing out I do after either ax or drawknife work. It has that continuous curve from bolster to tip that Kochanski likes but it is not as slim as either the Polar or likely Del's will be.

I think this narrow profile with a gentle curve from boster to tip will be just about perfect.

 

[robin wood]

Robin, have you used those 'Djarv' carvers? I've seen them around but not heard anyone useing them. Any thoughts?

I have not used them. All the ones I have seen so far in the UK have been rather deep for my liking these sort

Having said that I just had a look at his website and he has some new blade shapes which look much better.

I have found my ~3" Skookum carver to be very handy for most of the roughing out I do after either ax or drawknife work. It has that continuous curve from bolster to tip that Kochanski likes but it is not as slim as either the Polar or likely Del's will be.

I think this narrow profile with a gentle curve from boster to tip will be just about perfect.

That looks a nice tool, I have not seen it, only the bush tool.

 

[Native Justice]

I know that I don't have your level of expertise, but if you haven't already considered them, the Roselli's are excellent for what you need. The Hunter is great for hogging off wood with the Carpenter ideal for the detail work.

NJ

 

[tarmix101]

I know that I don't have your level of expertise, but if you haven't already considered them, the Roselli's are excellent for what you need. The Hunter is great for hogging off wood with the Carpenter ideal for the detail work.

NJ

I would agree with you on the Carpenter to an extent. I have no experience myself, but have read glowing reviews regarding both knives and their carving prowess.

For me it comes down to money. For what I would spend on one carpenter, I could almost buy two hand forged blades from a custom carving knife maker here in the US.

I won't even speculate on what Del will charge for a new, larger Sloyd knife offering, but I'll certainly wait and see.

 

[Schwert]

I have a few of Diobsud Forge carvers that have narrow and longer blades than Del's. They are handy but I do not like the flat with secondary edge bevel nearly as well as the sloyd's from Del.

Examples can be seen here:

http://www.littleshavers.com/CatalogPage12.html

 

[tarmix101]

I have a few of Diobsud Forge carvers that have narrow and longer blades than Del's. They are handy but I do not like the flat with secondary edge bevel nearly as well as the sloyd's from Del.

Examples can be seen here:

http://www.littleshavers.com/CatalogPage12.html

I have seen those on Rick's site, and often wanted to try one of the bent knives. There always out of stock.

 

[Schwert]

I do not have any of those Diobsud bents either. I do have North Bay and Kestrels though. I find Del's edge configuration on his hooks to be easier to carve spoon bowls with than either of these NW designs though. For flatter work though it is hard to beat Kestrel or North Bay bents.

 

[tarmix101]

I do not have any of those Diobsud bents either. I do have North Bay and Kestrels though. I find Del's edge configuration on his hooks to be easier to carve spoon bowls with than either of these NW designs though. For flatter work though it is hard to beat Kestrel or North Bay bents.

Used one of the NBF knives. I liked the longer handle for two handed pulling cuts. I ended up giving it away for a thread contest on another "Blade" forum drumming up interest in carving and tradition crafts.

It was fun so I didn't mind parting with it.

Sorry for the thread drift.

 

[Hoodoo]

Either of these work good for me.

 

[tarmix101]

Before I purchased the Pinewood forge and my Cape forge knives, I used all three of these. In fact the 510 is still my main roughing out blade.