I want to make a knife

[Firebow Swagger]

Hi Guys been wanting to make my own knife for a while now. And i found some advice on Instrutables.com

From file to knife ; http://http://www.instructables.com/id/From-File-to-Knife-with-simple-tools/

soup can forge http://http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Soup-Can-Forge/

To start off I want to make a small 3" Svord Pheasant type knife out of an old file/rasp, But leave the rough file edge on the tang part for rough filing when carving bits and bobs

Ive got some apple wood for the scales from a 80 year old tree that blew down, should look good and be non toxic

Is there anything I have drastically overlooked or any advice you can give ?

 

[Ogri the trog]

Greenpete of this parish has some very well known videos about knife making.

They used to be on Youtube but may have been moved to Vimeo.

A search on his username should lead you in the right direction.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[Samon]

get your tools and stuff ready and get starting.

I wouldn't try making a folding blade first time, but if you feel comfy atleast trying it then gun it bro!

 

[Dave Budd]

I'd suggest starting with a fixed blade rather than a folding knife too. If you are going to start with a folder like a peasent then your best bet is to use an existing one for a pattern and copy the vital mechanical proportions exactly.

As for how to make the blade, well stock removal methods are the easiest and cheapest to begin with. All you need is a bit of steel (start with some nice clean and soft O1 ground flat stock), vice, hacksaw and a file; of course if you have an angle grinder and belt sander then it will make it much easier. If you would rather make a blade properly p ) and forge it, then the kit can be very siimple too, just takes more thinking about and the forging will require more practice. Its too early in the morning to sit here and write 'how tos', so I suggest if you would like to go down the forging route that you search around this forum for ideas of others set ups, as well as looking me up on you tube to see what I use when I'm out and about (cant get much more simple).

Of course, the easiest and best way to learn how to forge a blade without lots of foul ups and false starts is to come onoa course with me and I can teach you how

 

[Samon]

I hear Dave is doing free courses atm too 'ey! lol jk

I can trace my svord knife if you like..



I modified mine though.. so, yeah.. I can still trace the blade and post the picture to you so you can then trade from the screen and work from!

 

[Firebow Swagger]

Oh haha lots of replys , will have a search later, only on my mobile at the moment,
I have grinders, sanders, welders, scroll saw . micrometer etc In my super man shed so I'm good for tools

I have ordered a svord pheasant shabby to copy but thanks for the offer of a tracing.

Other things that have occurred to me too are, if I welded with a low hydrogen tensile arc rod along the yet to be sharpened edge. Would it give a decent hard edge or be pointless? I've done hard facing on digger buckets to slow down wear, just curious if it would help and possibly show up like on

Damasascas steel.

I wanted to make a folder just for a legal to carry when om out walking. If the svord design cocks up hugely I can always make if a fixed blade I suppose.

Thanks for the replys, its given me lots to think on, I will keep you all posted on my plans, progress and trips to hospital

 

[mrcharly]

I think it would be pointless.

 

[Firebow Swagger]

We finally got round to making the tin can forge, I put extra rockwool lagging around it too . The blowtorch is way too small to heat it ,Its just in there on low to help dry it out,Its pretty hot but the sand/plaster mix wouldn't glass over. Just gotta get a bottle of propane for the bigger torch



Also got my Peasant Knife in the post today to see how it works and how I can improve on it , this is a rough sketch of what I'm planning to make . the tang Is the rough part of the file Im using for smoothing wood when carving or as a fire steel



I also got this when I bought the Peasant knife , It awesome ,especially for £10 . the shear/scissors slide back into the handle and keep the whole thing locked tight http://www.heinnie.com/Clearance/Multi-Tasker/p-0-102-7364/

 

[Firebow Swagger]

Also Mr Sammon sir , what did you do to modify your Peasant knife ?

 

[Firebow Swagger]

Ahhh found the thread on the peasant modification to a 3" cutting edge on the blade ,

Just sorted the links on my first post so you can see what Im on about, file to knife is well worth a read

Getting Gas tomorrow so might have some more pics up over the weekend

 

[Firebow Swagger]

WayHay! Cooking with gas now

 

[Firebow Swagger]

Latest design, scales will probably change a bit, for grip and final blade thickness

 

[MertzMan]

like the drawings there mate. Be interested to see the finished article too

 

[Samon]

Also Mr Sammon sir , what did you do to modify your Peasant knife ?

Yo! sorry I haven't replied yet mate I didn't check your thread..

I've changed the shape of the handles by removing the bottom point, the upper end bulge a small bit and thinned the scales down on the sander. The blade has been changed from the standard clip point to a more (imo) useable spear point shape. This also dropped it to under 3", to suit my preference and the blade has also been pretty much flat ground to remove the uneven bevels. This can be done on sand paper, but is much faster on a belt sander. (my sander is a hand held uptunred and clamped down! )

Latest design, scales will probably change a bit, for grip and final blade thickness

That looks very nice! The remaining file tang looks interesting and will certainly be different.

Keep us updated mate, love to see how it all turns out.

 

[Firebow Swagger]

Thanks Nomad

Samon, Now I look at your peasant and compare it to mine I see your subtle changes, Very nice work Ive got the wood handle version. Its in dire need of some love and attention out of the box it lacks ..er ..fineness

Dunno if you noticed on the new sketch. I've incorporated the grip into the blade ,for detail work, as a guard gets in the way and to keep the length of the cutting edge down
below 3". The other issue is I don't have a rasp that is not case hardened. Guess Ill just stick with my little *******....file

 

[Firebow Swagger]

Heating the file till the point it goes non magnetic


Ive got a extendable magnet to reach in and test the whole length


It did go completely red and non magnetic but I didn't want to melt my phone getting a pic . Now Im leaving it overnight to cool slowly. Hopefully it will be easier to work. I had to snap the file to length in my vice as a hacksaw wouldn't touch it

 

[Firebow Swagger]

I took off the file grooves with a hand file as it was lovely and soft and quite easy work

I then traced the out line

Then Grinded and filed the shape out ...I also had to keep dipping it in water, I didn't want to put too much heat into it


Until next time

 

[Samon]

That's really cool!

Now get back to it and get it finished.

 

[Albus Culter]

Looking good. Interested to see how the file part works out as it's an interesting idea.

 

[Dave Budd]

just had a thought. when you come to put it all together, you'll want to put some thin washers between the blade and the scales. I do this anyway as it makes for better bearing surfaces and allows clearance. With the teeth being left on the tang section (making that area much thicker than the rest of the blade), if you don't shim it out then you won't be able to open/close the blade I make thin washers from thin sheets of bronze that I make and then punch, but I've seen razor blades being used for this purpose too.

looking good so far