I call it the Sojourner...(pic heavy)

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Some time back Bryan Breeden and I got into a conversation about "bushcrafter" style knives. About their roles and uses, In that conversation I told him that I thought I had a design that would be a good one that would add, in my personal opinion, some improvements over the traditional design making it a little more efficient. Considering one of the key elements of bushcraft is firecraft I wanted to add some features that made the knife a little more functional in that aspect...and so the testing began on a small scale. First I drew up and Bryan made the first small striker knives that worked really well. That led to the larger striker knife and the understanding that the features I wanted to incorporate into my bushcraft knife would indeed work well.

Then came the knife itself. I wanted a knife that would be unobtrusive enough that I could carry it in state wildlife parks without scaring people but robust enough to be able to stand alone in wilderness areas if needs be. One that was stout enough to perform many tasks yet light enough not to be a burden. One that was large enough to perform most camp and field tasks I would need to do such as game processing and vegetable cutting and still small enough to do detail work, and I really wanted it to function well in firecraft. With those thoughts in mind I call it the Sojourner.


It is made of 1/8 inch O-1 steel with tan micarta scales. Has a modified drop point blade with a shallow sweep and needle sharp tip that has length of 5 inches, and an over-all of 10 inches.


The sheath has a couple of bugs that need to be worked out but it is close to what I wanted.

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The handle is really comfortable in every grip I've tried it in.

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and the scalloped and beveled spine perform exactly as I thought they would from previous testing.

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I love how fatwood will not absorb water. It has been raining for days here and is supposed to rain for even more days still.

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I think the size of the knife will be great for camping and hiking use, and as always the edge Bryan put on it is amazing.

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As soon as the weather is a little better I'll get it out in the woods for a while to actually use it in more skills...hunting season will soon be here!
 
Knew id seen a beveled spine scraper before :rolleyes: now i remember youve got it on a few now
Its a feature ive put on my latest knife (if thats oks :D )
works very well on a ferro rod :eek:

havent used it on wood etc yet

ATB

Duncan

Hi Duncan,

No I don't mind, it's not like I tried to patent it or anything lol. Glad I'm not the only one who likes the idea.

It works really well for scraping fatwood fuz.

I'd like to see a picture of your knife if you have one to post.
 
Hi Duncan,

No I don't mind, it's not like I tried to patent it or anything lol. Glad I'm not the only one who likes the idea.

It works really well for scraping fatwood fuz.

I'd like to see a picture of your knife if you have one to post.

its a WIP so not finished yet and its a more how we say Tactical style :rolleyes: :D 3/16" 01 steel

but trying to make it bushhcrafty useful do the usless saw has become a scraper and the skull crusher but pint is now a hammer flat etc ;)
20mm high saber grind and a 30deg secondary bevel should actually be a lot slicier :rolleyes: than a 4mm woodlore

here it is with the handle ruff shaped so far (black and green G10)

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its only the spine scallop that has a Scraper Bevel
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in the hand no scales
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ATB

Duncan
 
How does that spine perform with a baton for splitting fat wood?

Well...I haven't taken pics of splitting fatwood yet but I can if you'd like. I did baton it through a section of hickory, and a section of Sycamore...each time using the same material for a baton that I was splitting. the knife is really stout even if made of 1/8" steel. It split through knots and all really well.

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It did leave marks on the baton, which for me is simply another piece of firewood, but they aren't deep enough to be diverting much of the force needed to split the wood. The task wasn't noticeably more difficult anyway.

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It took a couple of minutes to chop through this seasoned hickory but not excessively long and it handled it very well.

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I designed the handle to be somewhat bulbous so that it would be easy on the palm and comfortable in all "normal" uses and grips and still easy to hold on to in a rearward three finger grip. This is thanks at least in part to a conversation about "swells" I had with Rick Marchand a couple of years ago


This grip, which I was already used to using with birds beaks and with lanyards, makes a small knife a good bit more effective when doing snap cuts and chopping. We have some pretty vicious briar vines in this area and cutting through them was a breeze.

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I did some whittling with it.

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It's still shaves....

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and made quick work of cutting some carrot sticks for a snack for my youngest....

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I think it is going to fill it's intended role very well.




its a WIP so not finished yet and its a more how we say Tactical style :rolleyes: :D 3/16" 01 steel

but trying to make it bushhcrafty useful do the usless saw has become a scraper and the skull crusher but pint is now a hammer flat etc ;)
20mm high saber grind and a 30deg secondary bevel should actually be a lot slicier :rolleyes: than a 4mm woodlore

here it is with the handle ruff shaped so far (black and green G10)

ruffhandle2.jpg


its only the spine scallop that has a Scraper Bevel
ruffhandle1.jpg


in the hand no scales
NaTicalfwdthumbgrip.jpg




ATB

Duncan


Duncan that looks really good! I like it so far that G10 looks great, and it will look really sweet once you do the swedge...or did you change your mind? Ya know, a sharpened swedge (not razor sharp) can throw REALLY good sparks from a fire steel.

The scallop on my 1-0 and Warthorn design only have a slight bevel in the scallop for scraping fatwood and I spark the firesteel on the squared spine...mainly due to the resin build up in the scallop from scraping the fatwood. On this one I put a much steeper bevel after the scallop and it really throws sparks very well.
 
Just looked up Busse :eek: oops does look very simier in some ways but have never seen them before (did have a version with a double scallop and a paralell swedge :lmao: but its still on the drawing board)
its actually based on a RAT RC-5 :rolleyes:

I also see Busse have a fwd lanyard hole they say is a registered trade mark :rolleyes: which is somehting similer to the one ive put on a bigger machettee version
...... Who knew :rolleyes: :lmao:

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I wouldn't worry too much about it. The Busse with the double scallop and swedge didn't come out until after Bryan and I brought our first design out some months back and started a discussion on the fact that it was based on the idea of a full tang SOG Bowie (which until after the 1-0 design was my favorite knife). Actually SOG had done the double scallop and swedge years ahead of Busse. When Bryan and I discussed our first design we opted to leave out the second scallop and went for more of a streamlined spine instead and carried that into the next three....although I still play with the idea of adding a swedge to one of them just to see how it looks.

As for the hole in the guard I wouldn't worry too much about that either. If I understand the laws correctly... as long as it is even a slight difference in diameter and a slight difference in distance from the edge it is not a "copy" and becomes a different design. But, and don't take this wrong, I have yet to see a benefit to having a lanyard hole in the lower guard. Exactly what purpose do you see it serving for you? Is it to run paracord or whatever from the back lanyard hole through the front one across the fingers instead of around the wrist?
 
Not to sure about the lanyard hole as i dont use a lnyard at all
but the Cutting Comp guys have to have one in the regs i assume its for a saftey feature so if you let it go it dosnt take out the crowd:eek: :D

but did think a matching hole in the sheath you could padlock it in :rolleyes:

or make a metal finger guard to bolt on make it look even more like a pirate cutlass :D

ATB

Duncan
 
Not to sure about the lanyard hole as i dont use a lnyard at all
but the Cutting Comp guys have to have one in the regs i assume its for a saftey feature so if you let it go it dosnt take out the crowd:eek: :D

but did think a matching hole in the sheath you could padlock it in :rolleyes:

or make a metal finger guard to bolt on make it look even more like a pirate cutlass :D

ATB

Duncan

Oh, I like for my knife to have a lanyard at the pommel end...just never understood having it on the guard.


Lol, one of the local knife makers here once made a "tactical" knife called "The Devil's Right Hand" that had a few different bolt on guards. One was made with teeth like a Rambo knife that matched the saw teeth on the spine of the somewhat serpentine knife blade, one was just one long semicircular razor sharp edge, and the other was just a plain metal guard. It was interesting but not really my thing.
 

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