How to pick the right machete?

[njc110381]

Hi guys. Long time no see. Hope you're all well?

I'm having a bit of a read around, looking to buy a machete. But there are so many choices it's crazy! I found a good machete specialist in Columbia that will ship worldwide and claims to carry a lot of the best blades available. I'd tend to agree with their statement after chasing reviews of the things they sell. Not too many of the big brands we see here, but lots from countries that use them (Ie not China)! I'd really appreciate some help choosing one.

Anyhow. I think I've got the quality makes sussed, but I'm stuck on how to choose the shape and length? I'll start off by saying that I need to cut woodland paths through mainly bramble, but with the ability to hack off low branches now and again. I need to make new trails in a very scrubby woodland. So not too much weight required for slashing this kind of material for long periods. I need to avoid getting tired - tired is dangerous and additional weight will only bring that on more quickly.

How do you judge the right length? In my amateur way I started off by holding a tape measure at various points and putting it on my leg to see what I could easily carry. I only have a 28" inside leg, so although a long machete would be nice, it won't be practical. Maximum I'd want to carry is a 22" blade, with 18" being better! With 18" I can cut nearly to the ground without stooping too much, so is there any need for it to be longer?

Shape wise, I think I need a fairly slim blade? Anything with the deeper tip is just there to add front weight I assume? Which would be to give extra power to cuts in thicker material?

So far, what I think I need are as follows;

Bellotto 18" Cocoa - 2.2mm thick, 1lb 3oz with a fairly even width carbon blade.
Condor 18" El Salvador - 2.2mm thick, 1lb 8oz with a touch of end weight but not much. Stainless
Condor 18" Jungle Sabre - 2.2mm thick, 1lb 6oz with an even width blade. Stainless.
Imacasa 18" Pata de Cuche - 1.25mm thick, weight unknown (but sounds very light). Carbon
Tramontina 18" Bush - 1.25mm thick, 15oz with a little end weight. Carbon

I've intentionally specced all at 18" as I think that's right for me, but would be happy to accept any redirecting that may be offered. It was also to keep the specs consistent.

I think that maybe the Tramontina and Imacasa could be a little too light and thin? I do a physical job and can handle tools pretty well, so a little weigh isn't going to hurt. I'm just aware that I need to stay away from the serious chopping types as that's not what I need and the extra weight will hinder progress. The two Condor tools stand out being stainless. They have a good warranty and the steel sounds very good. 2.2mm isn't thick, right? They also don't need any extra sharpening work where as the others do. They cost a bit more but sound very well made? They also come with a quality leather sheath which is a nice feature.

I found all of these at machetespecialists.com - intentionally not linked as I'm unsure of the rules? I'd be interested to know if any of the site sponsors sell these tools? I'd happily buy from them instead if they do, but haven't had a chance to check yet.

What are your thoughts? I'd really appreciate hearing them because I'm a bit snowed under with options!

 

[crosslandkelly]

I'm not a fan of machetes, all well and good in the steaming jungles of south America, in Britain we have billhooks, a much better tool for the work you describe. IMHO
http://www.axminster.co.uk/fiskars-...RlJNEvEFGGyNhu8sRpNcNY3EYmlK7o7QcgaAtxW8P8HAQ

 

[mrcharly]

I agree with crosslandkelly.

Tools tend to evolve to suit the conditions. Use a sickle (cheap from ebay) for the light brambles, have a billhook for the rest. Or just use a billhook with a curve/hook for the whole lot.
Swinging at brambles isn't a great idea anyway, it tends to result in long strands whipping about. Slice the buggers off with a hooked blade or use secateurs.

 

[forrestdweller]

i second the secateurs, together with a pruning saw for the bigger stuff- much safer!

 

[sunndog]

If you do go for a machete just get a 18" straight blade tramontina and worry no more.

 

[greencloud]

I would recommend looking at the fiskars xa3 brush axe. The current version has a blunted tip which is ideal to prevent damage from ground contact when clearing scrub. The handle is plastic but plenty strong and I found the form excellent for various grips.

I have no affiliation but am a very happy owner.

 

[matt_uk]

Personally I'd steer clear of the fiskars just due to the quality of the steel... They're a smashing tool for the money but lifetime they're most certainly not! Find an old one from ebay and spend some time putting a decent edge on it then keep it covered... Don't buy the biggest one there is they're blooming heavy after half hour of swinging! Try to find one with a good pommel as this will really help reduce the chances of sending it flying into the deepest darkest pit of bramble stacked despair

If you must have a machete then the only only I can say I ever remotely liked was a vintage Brazilian which just felt very balanced in the hand despite it's slightly loose handle!

 

[OldJimbo]

My story with machetes goes like this: in the 70's I'd picked up the best machete available at the time which was the Barteaux with a cast aluminum handle and heavy L6 blade. It simply didn't work on the tough stuff in BC and was put away for decades. When I volunteered for trail clearing I needed a long blade so out came the Barteaux, and I picked up a light Tramontina: they still didn't work well on devil's club, no matter how sharpened (V grind) and the edges looked like a saw. So I got some Indonesian goloks from Valiant Blades and those forged and zone hardened full convex blades sailed through even hardhack (which is well named) instead of bouncing off. Later it was suggested to me by someone I trusted, that if a machete blade was given a wide convex edge, that it would work on hardhack etc., and would hold it's edge. I could see where a more acute edge would cut better but I was incredulous about the ability to hold up better. Nevertheless I belt ground the edges and it was true. I still use the goloks for clearing since with the draw cut there is far less stress on the wrist, but I keep the cheaper machetes available in the vehicle for times when I'm out without a golok and some clearing comes up.
I usually wear chainsaw chaps when clearing, and have caulked (spiked) logging boots to prevent slipping - but a razor sharp long blade is darned dangerous. For my purposes a long blade lets me cover more ground than using secateurs.

 

[petrochemicals]

I'd take a scythe of some sort and another tool for anything heavy, swinging a large blade all day long I should think I hard work, that is unless you really need the length.

 

[mick91]

Depends on use IMO. I use mine as an axe replacement, it's big it's heavy and it's a bit wild but it works for me. Yet Damien uses a tiny Gerber gator mini and it works for him. Horses for courses and that

 

[demographic]

Brambles? Secateurs.

You can waft a big blade about at them but realistically its just not efficient as they bend out of the way when you hit them.

Unless of course you just want a big blade to waft about, in which case, knock yerself out.

 

[njc110381]

Wow - I didn't expect those answers!

The wifes grandfather was a farmer all his life. When he died I was given his slasher, which is a lot like the Fiskars but more traditional. So I have one of those. But it's a bit much to carry when doing other things at the same time. I can't sheath it and put it on my belt. I used one when I worked for the wildlife trust as a lad because I was too young to use a brushcutter under their insurance. It worked well.

At around the same time I bought a billhook because we were shown how to make wattle hurdles. I find that a bit short for bramble if I'm honest - I think I'd struggle to get the blade velocity to get a clean cut.

Secateurs - now they could actually be a very good point. Not as fun though!

As for my experience with machetes, well I cut my leg pretty badly with a Martindale Golok when I was about 14! I still have it but like the billhook it's just a little too short and heavy. But it does work well for short periods.

It sounds like my choice of tool may not be the right one! I'll buy one anyway, because I want one, but I may have to give more consideration to my needs. If all else fails I can always wade in with my big Stihl clearing saw with a shredder knife attached. Although it would be ten times quicker it would turn a fun day out in the woods messing about into work. Something I try to avoid at all cost!

 

[sunndog]

you must be an expert mate......cutting something, anything, with a golock is no easy task

 

[dwardo]

Bramble are completely evil. Slashing with something short just whips them up into a octopus like frenzy. Little cuts also seems to just encourage them to grow more.
Two pairs of welders mitts and dragging them out one by one into an opening for burning worked best. Then go at the root balls.

 

[ged]

I'm a fan of the Tramontina machetes, there are three or four chez nous, and since you're interested in having fun and don't mind buying a tool just because you want one, I'd recommend trying one.

The description you give of the clearance you have to do suggests to me that using more than one tool would be less tiring than trying to use a single tool for all the work.

 

[British Red]

Bramble are completely evil. Slashing with something short just whips them up into a octopus like frenzy. Little cuts also seems to just encourage them to grow more.
Two pairs of welders mitts and dragging them out one by one into an opening for burning worked best. Then go at the root balls.

This ^

The tools I use for brambles are gauntlets and a mattock. Find the root ball by pulling, dig out the rootball with a mattock, burn the lot. Anything else makes no long term difference

 

[FGYT]

you must be an expert mate......cutting something, anything, with a golock is no easy task

Depends on the Golok

 

[sunndog]

yeah yeah ok, certain exceptions can be made pretend i wrote "martindale" golok above

 

[OldJimbo]

As for my experience with machetes, well I cut my leg pretty badly with a Martindale Golok when I was about 14!

Hence my advice on wearing chainsaw chaps. If any heavy clearing is on the list then a person is going to get tired and make a mistake eventually. Putting an acute convex edge of about 2-3 cm width on the Martindale will transform it from a brush beater and bouncer into a tool which will cut through most stuff with ease. I'm not sure how that would work with cheap stainless blades though, as most stainless steels have poor lateral edge strength, so the edge might fold easily. Now that there are many people who know the convex route to making a machete actually work, there should be a proper review of stainless machetes somewhere, with that information.

 

[MikeLA]

Over the years I gone from the Army issue Gollock which alright if you had a sharpener. To a Lofty wiseman Parang, Chris Caine etc. You just have to try them see which one suits and if it doesnt sell it on and try another.

Thats the knives but for your work I think the advie on simpler tools is best.