How to oil or whatever...

[Tye Possum]

Ok so my swiss army knife is getting a little sticky at the joints and I've never oiled it or whatever your supposed to do with folding knives. So what would be a good oil to use for lubrication on a swiss army knife, if that's actually what your supposed to use at all. Also, how do you apply it? Oh and I also want to get some oil for my fixed blade which is the kellam wolverine so it's carbon steel and how would I apply that, and if anyone happens to own a kellam knife like the wolverine, does the handle need oiling or anything too? I'd like the oils to be foodsafe but I'm a little concerned about oils that go rancid as that doesn't sound very food friendly either... Any help would be great, thanks.

 

[Rothley Bill]

Hi I have used camelia oil on wood and tool steel as its food safe and also a good corrosion inhibitor.

I simply wash my SAK in warm soapy water then drip a few drops of oil on to the SAK near to the pivots. seems to work fine.

 

[Tye Possum]

The wooden handle is kind of weird though, it's not as shiny as most of the ones I've seen, actually it doesn't seem like there's any coating or anything on it... I could be wrong though. Ok I'll use camelia oil as I can buy a bottle when I place my order on woodlore next week.

 

[Tye Possum]

Oh ya but also how do you apply the oil to a fixed blade knife? Do you just pour it on and wipe it off or what?

 

[Draven]

If it's an oil that doesnt cure, a rag dampened with the oil is the best way IMO - and can be carried around when outdoors without having a bottle that could burst and spill everywhere.

Handles are a different matter - I find the best way to oil a handle is linseed oil on fine steel wool, applied to the wood in circular motions. You'll need to leave it to cure though, and it can take a while to get the finish you want. I generally soak the handle in the oil first as a time saver.

Pete

 

[Tye Possum]

So you only oil the handle once or something? I mean I'm not making a knife, I'm just wondering if I need to oil the handle because it's wood. I doubt I could get it off the knife and I'd be surprised if it wasn't coated in something already because... Well because they sold it! I guess I'll just leave the handle the way it is then. Anyways, thanks for the help guys.

 

[Fraxinus]

Some wood finishing oils, like Danish Oil, have additives which make them cure faster than say linseed oil. Oils tend to have more of a satin finish than high gloss.

Both my SAK and Leatherman get a drop of WD40 on their joints, the miniscule amount used does not worry me in regard to food prep, as and when required.

atb Fraxinus

 

[Native Justice]

Go to your local pharmacy or Chemist and ask them for a bottle of Mineral Oil. It's extremely inexpensive, food safe and in addition to lubricating the metal, can be used to treat the wood. For the price of the camelia oil, you could probably by 6-10 bottles of Mineral oil (here in the states it costs about a $1) and is sold as an inexpensive laxative.

Hope this helps.

 

[Rothley Bill]

Take care if you use wire wool on oak as the iron will react with the tannins in the oak and the handle will go black.

I wipe the oil on to the blade when I get back and clean the blade. If you are out for a while you could carry a small amount in a plastic bottle.

Danish oil or boiled linseed oil will work well on the handle but they are not very food friendly due to the heavy metals used to accelerate the cureing. I would apply it with a cloth or a nylon scrubbing pad. Dilute it with white spirit 50:50 for the first coat, then give the handle a coat a day until you have got the finish you want. Oiling is an ongoing process, with furniture you oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year then once a year for life.

Walnut oils would work well providing you don't have a nut allergy. It is a drying oil.

 

[Draven]

Take care if you use wire wool on oak as the iron will react with the tannins in the oak and the handle will go black.

I wipe the oil on to the blade when I get back and clean the blade. If you are out for a while you could carry a small amount in a plastic bottle.

Danish oil or boiled linseed oil will work well on the handle but they are not very food friendly due to the heavy metals used to accelerate the cureing. I would apply it with a cloth or a nylon scrubbing pad. Dilute it with white spirit 50:50 for the first coat, then give the handle a coat a day until you have got the finish you want. Oiling is an ongoing process, with furniture you oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year then once a year for life.

Walnut oils would work well providing you don't have a nut allergy. It is a drying oil.

I'd forgotten about the tannins in oak The only oak I've been using is probably around 20+ years old so that's my excuse

Tis true that danish oil and boiled linseed oil aren't the most food safe - danish oil also has solvents in it IIRC. It might be a problem with a bowl or a spoon, but I honestly don't see it causing any problems on a knife handle - particularly if you use a bolster (while I don't put on a bolster, I do fill the endgrain facing the blade with epoxy). Also a good point that oiling is an ongoing process - use will always dull the finish to an extent. Doesn't bother me though, I find it to be just another almost ritualistic process that makes the knife more "mine".

I will say that WD40 isn't a lubricating oil, it's used to free up siezed components by soaking in and driving out water. A better choice for lubricating is a 3-in-1 oil IMO, though I can't vouch for food-safety.

 

[Ogri the trog]

So you only oil the handle once or something? I mean I'm not making a knife, I'm just wondering if I need to oil the handle because it's wood. I doubt I could get it off the knife and I'd be surprised if it wasn't coated in something already because... Well because they sold it! I guess I'll just leave the handle the way it is then. Anyways, thanks for the help guys.

theres an old saying about oiling knife handles...
Once a day for a week,
Once a week for a month,
Once a month for a year
and once a year for life!

That is from making it though so I recon if you start with the "Once a month" step, allowing plenty of time for the oil to cure, penetrate and not accumilate into varnish, you wont go far wrong.

Assuming of course that the wood is not coated with anything.

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[Tye Possum]

So do I really have to oil the handle? To clear things up, THIS is the knife I own and the handle is stained curly birch and because it's already made and everything I'd assume that means it's finished and I wouldn't have to do anything but take care of it.

 

[Draven]

So do I really have to oil the handle? To clear things up, THIS is the knife I own and the handle is stained curly birch and because it's already made and everything I'd assume that means it's finished and I wouldn't have to do anything but take care of it.

Oiling a natural finished wood handle is part of taking care of it, like sharpening and oiling the blade. You don't "have" to, but you don't "have" to wash your clothes or hoover the floor. It is worth letting it become part of your routine, because it makes a difference - the handle will last longer and look better.

Pete

 

[Native Justice]

So do I really have to oil the handle? To clear things up, THIS is the knife I own and the handle is stained curly birch and because it's already made and everything I'd assume that means it's finished and I wouldn't have to do anything but take care of it.

Same knife as I have. Great worker too. I took some steel wool to the handle to lighten the stain effect then soaked it in boiled linseed oil for three days, then set it to dry for one day. Looks spectacular now. I occasionally buff it a bit with mineral oil just to bring out the shine and so it doesn't dry out. Works a charm. Enjoy your knife!

 

[Tye Possum]

Cool, happen to have a picture?

 

[G.M. Merrill]

Oh, how the mighty have fallen! There once was a Sheffeld cutler whose motto was "Oil the joints". All folders need periodic cleaning and oiling of the jounts (blade pivot pins) for long life and proper operation. I have a Buck "Muskrat" I've carriedfor about 30 years which is still tight due to periodic cleaning and oiling using just a small drop of machine oil on each joint. Regarding a bushcraft knife, I use a older Randall "Camp and Trails" model I bought from A.G. Russel with a black walnut handle and tool steel (O-1 i believe) for a number of years and have never oiled the handle. I just clean it when necessary and carefully dry it.

 

[Native Justice]

Cool, happen to have a picture?

Wish I could ... Not a full member yet so can't send attachments.